Margate330

That is very hard to do. Lol

I can get close and maybe a few bumps of the trigger to a flat $20.00

I'll keep practicing. Lol

Toys4RJill

I think automatic 4WD is the appropriate reference. Or On-Demand 4WD or Auto Trac I don’t agree with the reference of part time as part time was the standard system and the auto feature was extra cost

Striker223

You are mostly totally correct, modern versions of this system though try and not just hammer the driveline band attempt to gently engage the clutch/linking gearset.....sometimes resulting in a dead transfer case if you are hamming on the car in sand etc.

Striker223

Doesn't matter, auto is not able to be used on road. It's functionally the same as flipping the switch to locked 4x4 hi when something slips then flicking it back off quickly

FrankReynoldsCPA

I'll just stick to my regular part time 4x4. Works great off road, and then i can just drive 2wd on the highway. Better fuel economy on the road, less wear on the front running gear, and easier to turn.

It's worked great for half a century in millions of pickup trucks. No need to reinvent the wheel to satisfy somebody who doesn't even buy pickup trucks but thinks she knows everything about their usage.

Toys4RJill

I respect that you like your part-time system. My comments about part-time are more of a critique on Toyota. Toyota uses a A.D.D. system. Electronic actuators. Vacuum parts. Sleeves going in and out. Locked hubs but they disengage or something like that. And there is no fuel economy penalty for 4Runner when you go full-time 4WD as a lot of people are unaware that Toyota A.D.D is all pretty still spinning but not under load. Lots to go wrong. So you might as well go full time as you add 30/70 variable split or lock it and you have 50:50 just like a locked part time. The driving experience is outstanding and is hard to give up as you have so much traction everywhere you drive and especially on turns. Ive had full time for 30 years.

I know I’ve been hard on Ford lately. But it’s super cool Ford added full-time 4WD to the top spec Ranger for 2025. That is superior to Toyota TRD Pro but not Tacoma Limited or Land Cruiser. 4Runner they give you a choice (GM and Dodge once did for their trucks) what is so bad with that? Anyway, cool you like your Ford 4WD. I’m gonna do reading on it. In the case of Toyota, you pay more and get less, and people are unaware they could have better

Striker223

How does drive type influence traction in turns? Also what driving experience are you talking about? I thought you had 4Runners?

I think people are well aware they pay more for less with Toyota, and it's becoming more clear by the day with the new gen products. Sequoia being the clearest example

AJT123

On that 2500 Suburban I think the FT4WD setup is ideal.

That beast is nothing but a big, comfortable tow pig that gets 10mpg if that lol.

Towing heavvvvy with something like that I’d rather have exactly what that does, or even PT 4x4. I wouldn’t want something that heavy (with that heavy of a load theoretically behind it) straining all 4 wheels and the driveline.

My truck personally my LX it’s 65/35 torson split. I prefer it that way based in my driving behavior and circumstances. I like it in 4WD all the time. I pull out of places fast etc etc. I love knowing that traction is already there no matter what.

Toys4RJill

haha. I love if.

only thing greater might be GM 8.1 Vortex V8 in the early 2000s. 9MPH in the city and 11 highway. That must be so cool to drive

496cu in.

https://chevytrucks.org/chevy-8-1-vo...-engine-guide/

Striker223

It's really not, sucks vs the 6.2 in a lot of ways that will surprise you if you A/B drive them. Horrid on fuel for not much more results down low and up too it just falls on its face and feels "tight" in a bad way vs an LS

FrankReynoldsCPA

Correct me if I'm wrong, but weren't the rotating assemblies on the 8.1's relatively fragile?

Striker223

Yes and no.....the parts themselves are strong if you rebalance them but sometimes they just explode for literally no good reason. A simple cam swap, long tubes, and modern intake gets you 600-650whp though so it's not as if it's a bad platform. It's just worse than the LS unless you are going 1500hp+ where the sheer size and aftermarket heads come into play

The greatest issue stock though is severe oil leaks and a 4 speed trans that identifies as metal bits in the oil pan. Oil leaks are from literally everywhere possible and unless you use a felpro gasket AND a thick bead of RTV black then good Iuck ever getting it to stop for more than 20k miles. I've never seen one fail to work/or ever have major issues but the trans is junk and it will leak oil

link13

It’s actually very easy. Go inside, and the cashier a $20, and let them do it . Of course, I generally avoid going inside and if the pump says, “please see cashier”, I usually leave and get fuel somewhere else.

Toys4RJill

I just use tap my phone at the pump. And fill up.

link13

Sometimes pumps malfunction from the PoS and you get the see cashier message. You can tap your phone all you want, but if the PoS system is down, the pump won’t pump.