Big heat wave next week...keep your car ready
07-15-06, 06:15 PM
#1
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Big heat wave next week...keep your car ready
Next week will really test the A/C systems in a lot of cars. Most of the country will be under the influence of massive sub-tropical high-pressure systems that will allow surface temperatures to approach triple-digits all the way up to the Canadian border...in addition to the usual frying-pan temperatures in the Desert Southwest that are normal. The East, in addition, will have the usual steam-bath humidity as well.
Most of the cool air that could provide relief will be locked way up in Northern Canada....so we're going to just have to live with it for awhile.
If you have to drive in that kind of heat, try and keep the car moving as much as possible. Today's cooling systems are much more efficient than in the cars I grew up with ( the temperature gauge needles rarely go more than halfway ), and they don't overheat as readily while standing still, but still, the more air you have moving through the radiator with vehicle speed, the better off you potentially are.
Keep those tire pressures up where they belong ( check them cold...less than 1 mile after a cold start ) ...and DON'T overload your vehicles. Weight, heat, low pressure, and high speed are the classic ingredients for tire failure. Most of those famous Ford Explorer rollovers and tire failures occurred on sun-baked summer roads with too-low tire pressures and overloaded vehicles...and hot, sun-baked roads is exactly what we will have next week. With stock factory wheels and tires, you will usually find the correct tire pressures in one of three places....the Owners' Manual, the drivers' door jamb, or a plate in the glove compartment. Do NOT go by the tire pressure figure molded into the tire's sidewall....usually between 40-50 PSI. That is simply a maximum, never-exceed pressure that could make the tire explode.
If your car does overheat, the old adage about putting the car in neutral and speeding up the engine no longer works......toss that idea out in the trash. That idea goes back to when engine fans were crankshaft-driven and speeding up the engine forced more air through the radiator. That all changed with the advent of electric fans with thermostatically-controlled switches. Speeding the engine up, today, while it will force more coolant through the water pump, otherwise does you no additional cooling good. What WILL work, if your engine overheats, at least to an extent, although it will be mighty uncomfortable, is to open the windows, turn the A/C off, and turn the HEAT on...no, I'm not kidding. You will, of course, sweat like a pig, but the heater will transfer some of the engine's excess heat out of the engine and disspiate it through the heater core inside...that could be just enough to save your engine and its bearings. If that doesn't start to work in a minute or two...and the gauge go down a little, shut the engine off and just let it cool.
And, most of you know better than to do this, but for you few who don't.......never, EVER open the radiator cap on a hot engine.....that coolant is very hot and under a lot of pressure......you can be SERIOUSLY burned.
Most of the cool air that could provide relief will be locked way up in Northern Canada....so we're going to just have to live with it for awhile.
If you have to drive in that kind of heat, try and keep the car moving as much as possible. Today's cooling systems are much more efficient than in the cars I grew up with ( the temperature gauge needles rarely go more than halfway ), and they don't overheat as readily while standing still, but still, the more air you have moving through the radiator with vehicle speed, the better off you potentially are.
Keep those tire pressures up where they belong ( check them cold...less than 1 mile after a cold start ) ...and DON'T overload your vehicles. Weight, heat, low pressure, and high speed are the classic ingredients for tire failure. Most of those famous Ford Explorer rollovers and tire failures occurred on sun-baked summer roads with too-low tire pressures and overloaded vehicles...and hot, sun-baked roads is exactly what we will have next week. With stock factory wheels and tires, you will usually find the correct tire pressures in one of three places....the Owners' Manual, the drivers' door jamb, or a plate in the glove compartment. Do NOT go by the tire pressure figure molded into the tire's sidewall....usually between 40-50 PSI. That is simply a maximum, never-exceed pressure that could make the tire explode.
If your car does overheat, the old adage about putting the car in neutral and speeding up the engine no longer works......toss that idea out in the trash. That idea goes back to when engine fans were crankshaft-driven and speeding up the engine forced more air through the radiator. That all changed with the advent of electric fans with thermostatically-controlled switches. Speeding the engine up, today, while it will force more coolant through the water pump, otherwise does you no additional cooling good. What WILL work, if your engine overheats, at least to an extent, although it will be mighty uncomfortable, is to open the windows, turn the A/C off, and turn the HEAT on...no, I'm not kidding. You will, of course, sweat like a pig, but the heater will transfer some of the engine's excess heat out of the engine and disspiate it through the heater core inside...that could be just enough to save your engine and its bearings. If that doesn't start to work in a minute or two...and the gauge go down a little, shut the engine off and just let it cool.
And, most of you know better than to do this, but for you few who don't.......never, EVER open the radiator cap on a hot engine.....that coolant is very hot and under a lot of pressure......you can be SERIOUSLY burned.
Last edited by mmarshall; 07-15-06 at 06:47 PM.
07-15-06, 08:34 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by mmarshall
Next week will really test the A/C systems in a lot of cars. Most of the country will be under the influence of massive sub-tropical high-pressure systems that will allow surface temperatures to approach triple-digits all the way up to the Canadian border...in addition to the usual frying-pan temperatures in the Desert Southwest that are normal. The East, in addition, will have the usual steam-bath humidity as well.
Most of the cool air that could provide relief will be locked way up in Northern Canada....so we're going to just have to live with it for awhile.
If you have to drive in that kind of heat, try and keep the car moving as much as possible. Today's cooling systems are much more efficient than in the cars I grew up with ( the temperature gauge needles rarely go more than halfway ), and they don't overheat as readily while standing still, but still, the more air you have moving through the radiator with vehicle speed, the better off you potentially are.
Keep those tire pressures up where they belong ( check them cold...less than 1 mile after a cold start ) ...and DON'T overload your vehicles. Weight, heat, low pressure, and high speed are the classic ingredients for tire failure. Most of those famous Ford Explorer rollovers and tire failures occurred on sun-baked summer roads with too-low tire pressures and overloaded vehicles...and hot, sun-baked roads is exactly what we will have next week. With stock factory wheels and tires, you will usually find the correct tire pressures in one of three places....the Owners' Manual, the drivers' door jamb, or a plate in the glove compartment. Do NOT go by the tire pressure figure molded into the tire's sidewall....usually between 40-50 PSI. That is simply a maximum, never-exceed pressure that could make the tire explode.
If your car does overheat, the old adage about putting the car in neutral and speeding up the engine no longer works......toss that idea out in the trash. That idea goes back to when engine fans were crankshaft-driven and speeding up the engine forced more air through the radiator. That all changed with the advent of electric fans with thermostatically-controlled switches. Speeding the engine up, today, while it will force more coolant through the water pump, otherwise does you no additional cooling good. What WILL work, if your engine overheats, at least to an extent, although it will be mighty uncomfortable, is to open the windows, turn the A/C off, and turn the HEAT on...no, I'm not kidding. You will, of course, sweat like a pig, but the heater will transfer some of the engine's excess heat out of the engine and disspiate it through the heater core inside...that could be just enough to save your engine and its bearings. If that doesn't start to work in a minute or two...and the gauge go down a little, shut the engine off and just let it cool.
And, most of you know better than to do this, but for you few who don't.......never, EVER open the radiator cap on a hot engine.....that coolant is very hot and under a lot of pressure......you can be SERIOUSLY burned.
Most of the cool air that could provide relief will be locked way up in Northern Canada....so we're going to just have to live with it for awhile.
If you have to drive in that kind of heat, try and keep the car moving as much as possible. Today's cooling systems are much more efficient than in the cars I grew up with ( the temperature gauge needles rarely go more than halfway ), and they don't overheat as readily while standing still, but still, the more air you have moving through the radiator with vehicle speed, the better off you potentially are.
Keep those tire pressures up where they belong ( check them cold...less than 1 mile after a cold start ) ...and DON'T overload your vehicles. Weight, heat, low pressure, and high speed are the classic ingredients for tire failure. Most of those famous Ford Explorer rollovers and tire failures occurred on sun-baked summer roads with too-low tire pressures and overloaded vehicles...and hot, sun-baked roads is exactly what we will have next week. With stock factory wheels and tires, you will usually find the correct tire pressures in one of three places....the Owners' Manual, the drivers' door jamb, or a plate in the glove compartment. Do NOT go by the tire pressure figure molded into the tire's sidewall....usually between 40-50 PSI. That is simply a maximum, never-exceed pressure that could make the tire explode.
If your car does overheat, the old adage about putting the car in neutral and speeding up the engine no longer works......toss that idea out in the trash. That idea goes back to when engine fans were crankshaft-driven and speeding up the engine forced more air through the radiator. That all changed with the advent of electric fans with thermostatically-controlled switches. Speeding the engine up, today, while it will force more coolant through the water pump, otherwise does you no additional cooling good. What WILL work, if your engine overheats, at least to an extent, although it will be mighty uncomfortable, is to open the windows, turn the A/C off, and turn the HEAT on...no, I'm not kidding. You will, of course, sweat like a pig, but the heater will transfer some of the engine's excess heat out of the engine and disspiate it through the heater core inside...that could be just enough to save your engine and its bearings. If that doesn't start to work in a minute or two...and the gauge go down a little, shut the engine off and just let it cool.
And, most of you know better than to do this, but for you few who don't.......never, EVER open the radiator cap on a hot engine.....that coolant is very hot and under a lot of pressure......you can be SERIOUSLY burned.
Outstanding post and thanks for the heads up
07-15-06, 09:43 PM
#5
Lexus Champion
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great stuff!!! I would also like to add that when you park your car, try and find a shady spot, if that is not possible, invest in some "window covers" that will prevent some of the sun from entering the vehicle. It will save the interior from harmful UV rays.
I also like to let the fan (AC OFF) for a few mins after I start the car, and a few mins before I shut off the car. This helps prevent mold buildup in the ducts -- it also give the engine time to warm up.
I also like to let the fan (AC OFF) for a few mins after I start the car, and a few mins before I shut off the car. This helps prevent mold buildup in the ducts -- it also give the engine time to warm up.
Trending Topics
07-16-06, 08:00 PM
#9
Lexus Champion
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It should be fine. I would keep one window open a CRACK, just let relieve the pressure buildup on hot days. You may want to lay a towel down and cover the area surrounding that window just in case it rains hard while you are away.
07-17-06, 12:38 AM
#11
Lexus Champion
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Definatly good advise... A couple summers ago I drove from San Diego to Lake Tahoe in my previous vehicle, Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. It was very HOT and I had 4 people in the car including some luggage with the AC on. During an uphill climb the engien temps got quite hot and the car went into "Limp home mode" I couldn't go past 35-40mph, if I tried to the car would just shudder really bad and misfire. Had to pull over, pop the hood and let it cool down a bit and I was good to go again. Kept the AC off until the hill climb was over.
My dad, who was making the same trip with similar load in his LS430 had no issues with the AC on the entire time. Coolant temp never exceeded the half way mark.
My dad, who was making the same trip with similar load in his LS430 had no issues with the AC on the entire time. Coolant temp never exceeded the half way mark.
07-17-06, 03:08 AM
#14
Thanks for the great info!
I noticed that Toyota/Lexus A/C is one of the coldest in the industry. I drive my 2000 GS300, a 97' E320, and a 01' Acura 3.2TL on a regular basis. I also ride in a 98' Supra, 05' ES330, 03' Rav4, 06' Mazda 3, 04' Infiniti FX35, and a 05' Audi A4 2.0T quite often.
My GS and the Supra's AC is really cold, and blasts at high volume. All other Toyota/Lexus are about the same, very cold and strong as well. The other Japanese models are significantly weaker than Toyota/Lexus. My GF's 3.2TL has the coldness but the blast power is weak. My family's E320 has strong blast but it has never been really cold from day 1 of purchase.
Maybe this is another reason why Toyota sales have been up
on a side note, Lexus heated seats heat up very fast. Mercedes heated seats heat up slower, but gets scorching when at full power
I noticed that Toyota/Lexus A/C is one of the coldest in the industry. I drive my 2000 GS300, a 97' E320, and a 01' Acura 3.2TL on a regular basis. I also ride in a 98' Supra, 05' ES330, 03' Rav4, 06' Mazda 3, 04' Infiniti FX35, and a 05' Audi A4 2.0T quite often.
My GS and the Supra's AC is really cold, and blasts at high volume. All other Toyota/Lexus are about the same, very cold and strong as well. The other Japanese models are significantly weaker than Toyota/Lexus. My GF's 3.2TL has the coldness but the blast power is weak. My family's E320 has strong blast but it has never been really cold from day 1 of purchase.
Maybe this is another reason why Toyota sales have been up
on a side note, Lexus heated seats heat up very fast. Mercedes heated seats heat up slower, but gets scorching when at full power
07-17-06, 03:21 AM
#15
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by GlobeCLK
I noticed that Toyota/Lexus A/C is one of the coldest in the industry. I
Yes...Lexus, especially, has what is probably the best A/C in the industry. My IS300 was like an igloo on 90-degree-plus days. Surprisingly, GM, which can't seem to do much else right these days, also makes a superb A/C system.....this is nothing new for them, going back to the 1960's.