Article about how to PROPERLY break in...
09-29-06 | 08:08 PM
#16
reset efi and ecu (ur on ur own figuring out how on a new bmw) and it will make the car perform basically the way it was built.
basically makes the motor run a lil rich and the trans not shift so early.
basically makes the motor run a lil rich and the trans not shift so early.
09-30-06 | 08:21 AM
#20
Lexus Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 91,715
Likes: 89
From: Virginia/D.C. suburbs
I agree with Motoman about not generally using synthetics during the first couple of thousand miles...(their extremely low friction will delay the ring and valve stem friction required for a proper break-in, although some cars like the Corvette and Viper have synthetic put in at the factory because it resists heat build-up better ). He is also correct that engine metal alloys, casting and honing methods, and clearances are much different today than in the past. ( Also not mentioned is the fact that Honda / Acura uses special break-in oil at the factory and does NOT want it changed for at least the first 3000 miles.....usually, on other nameplates, it is beneficial to change oil and filter at the first 1000 miles to get the shavings out).
But the rest of his article, in my opinion, sounds like old-fashioned snake oil tactics. First of all, although, of course, a well-broken in engine will give more power and better mileage than one that is not because of better compression, the main purpose of breaking in an engine on a street car is NOT necessarily power but to get a good seal on the moving parts ( rings, bearings, valve stems and seals, etc....) and to prolong engine life and keep it from being an oil user. On a racing engine that is only going to be run a few hundred or thousand miles and then rebuilt or junked, that is a different matter, but the engine in a street car is going to have to last for years and run 150,000-200,000 miles.
Second, I think you can take the word of the people who actually design and build these engines at the factory more than someone who is just trying to sell an alternative technique on the Internet....like I said, snake oil people are a dime a dozen. The auto manufacturer, as long as the new-car owner does not abuse the car and breaks it in according to factory instructions, is going to have to stand behind that engine warranty for anywhere for 3 to 10 years and do an overhaul or replace it if it starts to use an excessive amount of oil ( usually around one quart every 1000 miles is the threshold ). If what Motoman says is correct, in my opinion his methods would be recommended by auto manufacturers, and of course, in many places with dense traffic and pedestrians it is not only unwise but dangerous to use full-throttle methods as well,
Third, as most of you know from my auto reviews, I test-drive a lot of new cars, and I'm not about to start slamming brand-new engines around just because Motoman thinks it is more efficient to do so....I strictly adhere to the 4000-RPM limit and no 100% full-throttle stuff...though I accelerate hard enough to get a good idea of what the engine is capable of. Even Gung-Ho auto enthusiast magazines like CAR and DRIVER and ROAD and TRACK take it easy for the first 1000 miles or so on their test cars....and these guys are professionals who do it for a living, as do the slightly milder-driving people at Consumer Reports as well.
But the rest of his article, in my opinion, sounds like old-fashioned snake oil tactics. First of all, although, of course, a well-broken in engine will give more power and better mileage than one that is not because of better compression, the main purpose of breaking in an engine on a street car is NOT necessarily power but to get a good seal on the moving parts ( rings, bearings, valve stems and seals, etc....) and to prolong engine life and keep it from being an oil user. On a racing engine that is only going to be run a few hundred or thousand miles and then rebuilt or junked, that is a different matter, but the engine in a street car is going to have to last for years and run 150,000-200,000 miles.
Second, I think you can take the word of the people who actually design and build these engines at the factory more than someone who is just trying to sell an alternative technique on the Internet....like I said, snake oil people are a dime a dozen. The auto manufacturer, as long as the new-car owner does not abuse the car and breaks it in according to factory instructions, is going to have to stand behind that engine warranty for anywhere for 3 to 10 years and do an overhaul or replace it if it starts to use an excessive amount of oil ( usually around one quart every 1000 miles is the threshold ). If what Motoman says is correct, in my opinion his methods would be recommended by auto manufacturers, and of course, in many places with dense traffic and pedestrians it is not only unwise but dangerous to use full-throttle methods as well,
Third, as most of you know from my auto reviews, I test-drive a lot of new cars, and I'm not about to start slamming brand-new engines around just because Motoman thinks it is more efficient to do so....I strictly adhere to the 4000-RPM limit and no 100% full-throttle stuff...though I accelerate hard enough to get a good idea of what the engine is capable of. Even Gung-Ho auto enthusiast magazines like CAR and DRIVER and ROAD and TRACK take it easy for the first 1000 miles or so on their test cars....and these guys are professionals who do it for a living, as do the slightly milder-driving people at Consumer Reports as well.
Last edited by mmarshall; 09-30-06 at 09:00 AM.
09-30-06 | 08:41 AM
#21
That's cause I sent it to PureDrifter... doh....
Try now!
Try now!
might take a while as im only just about to graduate from highschool
09-30-06 | 08:55 AM
#22
Lexus Champion
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,854
Likes: 0
From: IL
I agree with Motoman about not generally using synthetics during the first couple of thousand miles...(their extremely low friction will delay the ring and valve stem friction required for a proper break-in, although some cars like the Corvette and Viper have synthetic put in at the factory because it resists heat build-up better ). He is also correct that engine metal alloys, casting and honing methods, and clearances are much different today than in the past. ( Also not mentioned is the fact that Honda / Acura uses special break-in oil at the factory and do NOT want it changed for at least the first 3000 miles.....usually, on other nameplates, it is beneficial to change oil and filter at thre first 1000 miles to get the shavings out).
09-30-06 | 11:35 AM
#23
Lexus Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6,947
Likes: 4
From: Florida
I've always taken it easy on my new motors at first and I'm a firm believer in the oil change at 1k to get out shavings. the heat cycle method and running at varying rpms is what I've pretty much gone with too.
btw-when a ferrari engine is built, it's tested to 7500rpm before going in the car
you can see at the end of this amazing vid...
http://www.autoblog.com/2006/09/12/a...a-ferrari-v12/
btw-when a ferrari engine is built, it's tested to 7500rpm before going in the car
you can see at the end of this amazing vid...
http://www.autoblog.com/2006/09/12/a...a-ferrari-v12/
10-02-06 | 10:26 PM
#26
Lexus Champion
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,068
Likes: 1
From: California
I'ved read the article a couple times a year ago and think he may be onto something. I'm going with this technique if I ever buy a new car.Changing the oil within 1000 is probably key too.
You should revisit this thread every 10,000 miles and let us know how you're car is doing. Good luck!
10-03-06 | 05:06 AM
#27
Lexus Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 91,715
Likes: 89
From: Virginia/D.C. suburbs
If you use Motoman's technique, be sure to always keep a couple of extra quarts of oil in the trunk with you.
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