Ford officially extends oil change interval to 7,500 miles
#16
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"Some manufacturers use a sensor to monitor the health of the oil and light a service lamp when it calculates change is required. Ford contends that its customers prefer a set amount of miles between changes."
#17
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You're throwing your money away. But if that's what it takes to make you feel good, have at it.
#18
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You might want to consider sending some of that "dirty" oil out for analysis, I think you will realize really quick that it is not dirty and you are out some serious cash....
#19
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Though Och may be going a little overboard on the side of caution, he is not necessarily throwing his money away. Don't forget, oil deteriorates with time, too, not just mileage. So, a car that is not driven much (mostly short trips or less than 5000 miles a year), especially in cold, damp conditions may need an oil change after only 1500-2000 miles in some cases....the oil will be 4-6 months old and full of condensed moisture and dirt from the engine, and the additive packages will have deteriorated.
Perhaps the best way to explain it is the old Fram oil filter TV commercial (for those of you guys who are old enough to remember it). In the commercial, a mechanic/technician was replacing a ruined engine that had gotten sludged-up, and he turns around, holds up a new Fram filter, and says "You can pay me now or pay me later".
And, in some cases, particularly with vehicles that have oil filters and drain plugs that are easy-to-reach ( 2.5L Subarus and some Toyota 4-cylinders are good examples), you can save money by doing it yourself in your own driveway if the driveway is reasonably level.
Perhaps the best way to explain it is the old Fram oil filter TV commercial (for those of you guys who are old enough to remember it). In the commercial, a mechanic/technician was replacing a ruined engine that had gotten sludged-up, and he turns around, holds up a new Fram filter, and says "You can pay me now or pay me later".
And, in some cases, particularly with vehicles that have oil filters and drain plugs that are easy-to-reach ( 2.5L Subarus and some Toyota 4-cylinders are good examples), you can save money by doing it yourself in your own driveway if the driveway is reasonably level.
Last edited by mmarshall; 03-25-07 at 10:45 AM.
#20
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Though Och may be going a little overboard on the side of caution, he is not necessarily throwing his money away. Don't forget, oil deteriorates with time, too, not just mileage. So, a car that is not driven much (mostly short trips or less than 5000 miles a year), especially in cold, damp conditions may need an oil change after only 1500-2000 miles in some cases....the oil will be 4-6 months old and full of condensed moisture and dirt from the engine, and the additive packages will have deteriorated.
Perhaps the best way to explain it is the old Fram oil filter TV commercial (for those of you guys who are old enough to remember it). In the commercial, a mechanic/technician was replacing a ruined engine that had gotten sludged-up, and he turns around, holds up a new Fram filter, and says "You can pay me now or pay me later".
And, in some cases, particularly with vehicles that have oil filters and drain plugs that are easy-to-reach ( 2.5L Subarus and some Toyota 4-cylinders are good examples), you can save money by doing it yourself in your own driveway if the driveway is reasonably level.
Perhaps the best way to explain it is the old Fram oil filter TV commercial (for those of you guys who are old enough to remember it). In the commercial, a mechanic/technician was replacing a ruined engine that had gotten sludged-up, and he turns around, holds up a new Fram filter, and says "You can pay me now or pay me later".
And, in some cases, particularly with vehicles that have oil filters and drain plugs that are easy-to-reach ( 2.5L Subarus and some Toyota 4-cylinders are good examples), you can save money by doing it yourself in your own driveway if the driveway is reasonably level.
#21
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So not only are you throwing money away, damaging the enviorment, you are also hurting your engine (albeit very slightly)
#22
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The most wear on ANY engine, if properly maintained, is when it is brand-new, usually in the first 1000 miles or so of break-in, when the rings, bearings, and valves all seat and metal shavings come off and get in the oil. That is why the first oil change is usually the most critical one.
#23
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Well, you may say that I'm throwing money away, but afterall it's not that much. I buy a case of Mobil 1 synthetic at Costco, I believe for under $30, and then the oil change is what, another $15? So thats $45 alltogether, every 2000 miles. Give me a break, people waste more on cigarettes, perfumes, etc. I don't know how long oil is suposed to last, I'm not an oil expert or anything, all I know is when I come for an oil change, the oil that is drained from the engine is pretty damn dark in color, and the new oil that goes in is nice and clear, and I have a peace of mind by running clean oil.
#24
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Well, you may say that I'm throwing money away, but afterall it's not that much. I buy a case of Mobil 1 synthetic at Costco, I believe for under $30, and then the oil change is what, another $15? So thats $45 alltogether, every 2000 miles. Give me a break, people waste more on cigarettes, perfumes, etc. I don't know how long oil is suposed to last, I'm not an oil expert or anything, all I know is when I come for an oil change, the oil that is drained from the engine is pretty damn dark in color, and the new oil that goes in is nice and clear, and I have a peace of mind by running clean oil.
So....you may like the LOOK of nice, fresh, clear, honey/amber colored oil, but you have to expect it to turn dark if it is going to do its job and protect the engine. That's why you have to change it at reasonable intervals.....and there you are doing the right thing.
#25
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Well, Och, I'm not one of those who necessarily believes you are wasting money, but oil is SUPPOSED to turn dark. If it didn't, it wouldn't be doing its job. To an extent, the darker it turns, the smaller ( and more ) dirt and wear particles (measured in microns) it is removing from the engine...those particles, under a certain size, cannot all be absorbed into the oil filter's filtering elements.
So....you may like the LOOK of nice, fresh, clear, honey/amber colored oil, but you have to expect it to turn dark if it is going to do its job and protect the engine. That's why you have to change it at reasonable intervals.....and there you are doing the right thing.
So....you may like the LOOK of nice, fresh, clear, honey/amber colored oil, but you have to expect it to turn dark if it is going to do its job and protect the engine. That's why you have to change it at reasonable intervals.....and there you are doing the right thing.
#26
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Where do you come up with this?
And how does oil analysis "prove" it?
The most wear on ANY engine, if properly maintained, is when it is brand-new, usually in the first 1000 miles or so of break-in, when the rings, bearings, and valves all seat and metal shavings come off and get in the oil. That is why the first oil change is usually the most critical one.
![Uhh...](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/1387914497.gif)
The most wear on ANY engine, if properly maintained, is when it is brand-new, usually in the first 1000 miles or so of break-in, when the rings, bearings, and valves all seat and metal shavings come off and get in the oil. That is why the first oil change is usually the most critical one.
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