5h4n3

I don't know how legit this is but I thought it worthwhile to post it up. I got this email attachment from a friend of mine, who got the email from someone else and so on and so forth, hence the reason i question the legitimacy of the contents. But I thought it made sense so here goes...

chums

iTrader: (3)

wasnt there a thread about this a while ago? it was believable (i guess?), and i dont remember what most people were saying, but w/e, i liked the info but didnt take it to heart

llamaboiz

here it is

*this was from the carchat board, sorry i dont remeber who posted it*
1. Fill up your car or truck in the morning or at night when the temperature is still cool. Remember that all service stations have their storage tanks buried below ground; and the colder the ground, the denser the gasoline. When it gets warmer gasoline expands, so if you're filling up in the
afternoon or in the evening, what should be a gallon is not exactly a gallon. In the petroleum business , the specific gravity and temperature of the fuel (gasoline, diesel, jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum products) are significant. Every truckload that we load is temperature-compensated so that the indicated gallonage is actually the amount pumped. A one-degree rise in temperature is a big deal for businesses, but service stations don't have temperature compensation at
their pumps.

2. If a tanker truck is filling the station's tank at the time you want to buy gas, do not fill up; most likely dirt and sludge in the tank is being stirred up when gas is being delivered, and you might be
transferring that dirt from the bottom of their tank into your car's tank.

3. Fill up when your gas tank is half-full (or half-empty), because the more gas you have in your tank the less air there is and gasoline evaporates rapidly, especially when it's warm. (Gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating 'roof ' membrane to act as a barrier between the gas and the
atmosphere, thereby minimizing evaporation.)

4. If you look at the trigger you'll see that it has three delivery settings: slow, medium and high. When you're filling up do not squeeze the trigger of the nozzle to the high setting. You should be pumping at the slow setting, thereby minimizing vapors created while you are pumping. Hoses at the pump are corrugated; the corrugations act as a return path for vapor recovery from gas that already has been metered. If you are pumping at the high setting, the agitated gasoline contains
more vapor, which is being sucked back into the underground tank, so you're getting less gas for your money. Hope this will help ease your 'pain' at the pump.

5. Do not top off your gas tank, when the pump shuts off, do not keep trying to add more gas..................a friend who owns a gas station says that by doing th is, you are actually giving the next customer a $1.00 worth of gas. The gas you pump stays in the hose and never makes it to your tank...........good to know.

isam250

iTrader: (7)

dont drive

iialcii

iTrader: (3)

get a hybrid or even better a two wheel bicycle man power that vehicle hahah. geez gas is a killer 65 for my last fill up at 4.17/gal

suicidesam

smokyis350

iTrader: (21)

wow, will definitely try this out. good tips. probably wont be anything dramatic. like 1% lols

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

If you really believe the ground temperature at the depth a gas tank sits is as unstable as this guy would like you to believe, I've got a really nice bridge for you and I'll make you a really special deal on it.

eric_r_ho

iTrader: (9)

Tell me more about this bridge..you've got me hooked.

The only one I believe in those "tips" is the one about the tankers coming by to fill the ballasts. It's the one that sounds most believeable..

josephdoc

Use Eneos 0w20. 10% better MPG = 10% instant rebate at gas pump.
http://www.eneos.us/products.php?pk=5

Faymester

aww, but IIIIIIIIIIIIIII wanted the bridge ... I'll pay more!

Stage3

iTrader: (3)

I know for a 100% fact that this is true... One of my friends father works at TPA with ARFF and he told me about the roofs of the tanks. I never noticed them before then, but when they are full, you can see the dome. When they are empty, you don't see it. It serves two purposes, to keep the pressure steady and to keep vapor from forming. Apparently, the dome sits on top of the fuel.

Now, as to whether or not this theory would have any benefit in our gas tanks is a different story...

100plus

get a bicycle. water, gatorade, powerade, red bull and etc etc will be your new fuel source.

mmarshall

Here.....I'll resurrect an old, detailed thread I did on this some time ago. It has more tips.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ght=saving+gas





Gas prices, of course are affecting almost everyone.....but we don't necessarily have to give up our cars or driving. Many of you already know how to make those hard-earned gas dollars go further, but for those of you who don't, here are some time-honored tips:




Drive as much as possible with the engine warm. Cold starts and extended warm-ups make the engine run rich and use more gas than when warm.

Consolidate trips if possible. Combine as many errands as you can into one run.

Avoid as much stop-and-go as possible. Most of the gas is used just getting the car moving from a stop.

Keep the engine, transmission, and final-drive fluids changed....engine oil at 3000-5000 miles, transmission fluid at 15,000-30,000 depending on driving conditions. Good lubrication obviously means less drag and better mileage.

Keep the engine RPM down and accelerate and brake slowly and smoothly. However, TOO low an RPM for the gear you're in will lug the engine and DECREASE mileage.

Try to avoid hills if possible.....flat roads are usually better for mileage. Coasting down hills in neutral or in too high a gear will save gas, yes, but it can damage the transmission and also be dangerous by eliminating compressional engine braking in lower gears and throwing too high a load on the brakes if you need to stop. This can lead to many different brake problems. And, of course, in hilly country you will use a lot of gas going UP.

Take all the excess and unnecessary junk of of your car...trunk, cargo area, under the seats, etc......it just adds weight and burns more gas. Keep only what is important or truly needed.

Try and avoid strong headwinds and crosswinds if possible......weaker ones won't hurt much. Strong headwinds increase air resistance and strong crosswinds increase tire drag by forcing the tires to steer off a centerline to keep the car on a straight course.

Make sure the wheels and tires are properly aligned and inflated. Significantly misaligned tires ( especially toe-in / out) will add unnecessary rolling friction and cause drag. Air at most gas stations is free. The correct pressure for the OEM ( stock ) tires and tire size will be found on the drivers' door jamb, inside the glove compartment, or in the Owners' Manual. A couple of extra pounds of air in the tires will increase mileage by bulging out the center of the tire slightly and lessening the tire contact patch....but this will also give a rougher ride, jar the suspension and body structure more over bumps, decrease traction, and lessen steering response with the smaller contact patch.
Check the tires when COLD.....less than three-quarters of a mile or after sitting 3 or more hours.

Turn off the A/C compressor if not needed ( on some vehicles it goes on and off automatically with the front windshield defroster ). A/C compressors, particularly older and less efficient types, can use as much gas as 4 MPG.

Take off any body parts (if possible) that adds air drag. Stuff that may look " cool ", at most normal driving seeds, can decrease gas mileage by creating that drag. Some rear-deck spoilers, for example, not only create drag but can be unbolted.

Don't run larger-than-standard tires on your car. I know a lot of you guys want the big-diameter and low-profile steering response so you can throw your car around corners, but depending on the type of the rubber tread compound involved, a larger road contact patch on the tire usually means more drag, more rolling friction, and less gas mileage. This is why high-mileage vehicles like the Prius and Civic Hybrid generally have tall, high-profile, narrow tires......less rolling friction for better mileage.

Don't take the Suburban, at 11-15 MPG, down to the grocery store if you are only getting a few things and can take a Hyundai Accent or other small vehicle that will get 2 or 3 times that mileage. You would be amazed the number of people driving big SUV's ALONE or for trips that can be done by much more economical vehicles.

Drive with windows up whan possible. Open windows and vents cause added drag and air turbulence and lower mileage. However, the question inevitably comes up of the choice between open-window driving and using the A/C...which is better? Studies have been done on this subject and it has been found on a number of vehicles that the A/C compressor actually causes less of a mileage drop than opening the windows.....it is important to keep smooth airflow on the outside of the car.

If possible, try to stay on dry pavement. Dirt, gravel, snow, slush rain, etc..... decreases mileage by increasing the drag on the tires rolling through it. This can be as much as 2 MPG. Driving in precipitation also means more use of the lights, wipers, fog lights, defroster, A/C, etc....which uses electricity and makes the engine and alternator work harder recharging the battery.

If your vehicle has a driver-controlled electric switch that chooses between 2WD, 4WD, AWD, 4HI, 4LO, etc......like Explorers, Grand Cherokees, Troopers. etc........keep it in 2WD as much as possible or feasible. Fewer driven wheels means less drag and better mileage.

Try to drive in daylight hours rather than at night. Headlights consume a small amount of power by requiring more electricity from the alternator.....but many of today's lights are so efficient and take such a small amount that this is becoming insignificant....and DRLs are on permanantly anyway. Driving in daylight also usually means higher air temperatures...and better mileage.

Look for sale gas prices.....but don't use cheap, cut-rate brands. I know that not everyone will not agree with me on this, but buying cheap gas from Smiling Sam's El Cheapo station down the street can often compromise the quality of what you get....the underground tanks could water or dirt-contaminated and the gas itself may not have the high-quality detergent package needed to keep today's advanced fuel-injecion systems clean.
( For the record, I highly recommend three brands, if available in your area....Chevron with Techroline, Shell V-Power, and BP / Amoco ). Chevron, especially, has proved itself in many tests.

Resist the temptation, also, to use 87-octane if 91 or 93 is recommended. I know this is another area where not everyone will agree, but the engineers who actually designed the engine usually know best. They recommend ( or require ) certain grades for a reason. Different grades and octanes of gasoline have markedly different vapor pressures, burning characteristics, and resistance to knocking. Some engines with knock sensors can be safely run on lower-than-recommended octane for brief periods, but this was not intended to be a long-term measure, and you must also consider the fact that retarding the spark timing........which is basically what knock sensors do.........will result in less power and lower mileage, so all else being equal, you will probably burn more gas that way and may not end up really saving any money anyway.

So....those are my recommendations. Feel free to add any of your own as well.

I have deliberately avoided the subject in detail of buying large quanitities of gas when the price is down and storing it at home for future use because the quality of gas containers, state and local laws on the subject, fire ordinances, safety of storage areas, flammability hazards, etc...simply varies too much from place to place, but in general it is not a good idea because gas can deterorate

OneJay

iTrader: (14)

Came across this atrocity today in San Mateo, CA