toyota sienna engine sludge
#16
From my experience, I would say that there is at least some truth to this, and I use nothing but synthetics in my vehicles. We bought a ten year old Cressida, 1990, with over 110,000 miles and immediately switched to Mobil 1 Synthetic. Not too long afterwards, the engine began to bleed oil.(Granted I do believe Toyotas gasket material to be better now than back then). I did the same on a seven year old 1989 Nissan Sentra that had similar mileage, and the oil pan gasket leaked like crazy. From what I have read, the high detergency of synthetics cleans the "gunk", that conventional oil has built up from around the seals over time, causing the leaks.
For the OP, the best advice I would give would be to use an extended performance oil, full synthetic. After that, I wouldn't worry about it...
#17
#18
#20
Seafoam is ineffective at best and destructive at its worst. Avoid using it.
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On oil itself: perhaps 20-30 years ago, the knowledge that switching to synthetic could cause leaks was true. However, these days, you have less to worry about. I believe that if switching to a synthetic oil causes tons of leakage, it was time to replace your gaskets and seals anyway.
As for the time between oil changes: you can go 8,000-10,000 miles between oil changes if you use a good Group IV-Group V oil such as Castrol German 0W-30 (what I'm using in my MK III Supra), Amsoil, Royal Purple or Redline. These, I believe, are the only Group IV-V oils that you can buy off the shelf in America right now. The rest are hydrocracked Group III oils, and are NOT true synthetics. If you are going to pay the premium for synthetic oil, at least get the actual thing in my mind.
However. To actually go 8,000-10,000 between oil changes, you MUST change the filter every 3,000-4,000 miles. This is key. Use a good filter, such as Wix, or Napagold. Walmart Supertech filters are actually a good quality filter - at least compared to Fram filters. Fram filters are trash - plain and simple.
#21
Don't use Seafoam. Do a bit of research and you find that Seafoam is made largely out of Pale Oil. The smoke that comes out of your exhaust when using the product isn't 'carbon'. It's the oil burning, and combusting oil in the cylinder head and converters is not good.
Seafoam is ineffective at best and destructive at its worst. Avoid using it.
---------------
On oil itself: perhaps 20-30 years ago, the knowledge that switching to synthetic could cause leaks was true. However, these days, you have less to worry about. I believe that if switching to a synthetic oil causes tons of leakage, it was time to replace your gaskets and seals anyway.
As for the time between oil changes: you can go 8,000-10,000 miles between oil changes if you use a good Group IV-Group V oil such as Castrol German 0W-30 (what I'm using in my MK III Supra), Amsoil, Royal Purple or Redline. These, I believe, are the only Group IV-V oils that you can buy off the shelf in America right now. The rest are hydrocracked Group III oils, and are NOT true synthetics. If you are going to pay the premium for synthetic oil, at least get the actual thing in my mind.
However. To actually go 8,000-10,000 between oil changes, you MUST change the filter every 3,000-4,000 miles. This is key. Use a good filter, such as Wix, or Napagold. Walmart Supertech filters are actually a good quality filter - at least compared to Fram filters. Fram filters are trash - plain and simple.
Seafoam is ineffective at best and destructive at its worst. Avoid using it.
---------------
On oil itself: perhaps 20-30 years ago, the knowledge that switching to synthetic could cause leaks was true. However, these days, you have less to worry about. I believe that if switching to a synthetic oil causes tons of leakage, it was time to replace your gaskets and seals anyway.
As for the time between oil changes: you can go 8,000-10,000 miles between oil changes if you use a good Group IV-Group V oil such as Castrol German 0W-30 (what I'm using in my MK III Supra), Amsoil, Royal Purple or Redline. These, I believe, are the only Group IV-V oils that you can buy off the shelf in America right now. The rest are hydrocracked Group III oils, and are NOT true synthetics. If you are going to pay the premium for synthetic oil, at least get the actual thing in my mind.
However. To actually go 8,000-10,000 between oil changes, you MUST change the filter every 3,000-4,000 miles. This is key. Use a good filter, such as Wix, or Napagold. Walmart Supertech filters are actually a good quality filter - at least compared to Fram filters. Fram filters are trash - plain and simple.
GC is great stuff but for the majority of people/engines an Group III oil like Pennzoil Platinum will work fine.
Fram filters are expensive for what they are - but also Honda, Subaru and Chrysler actually come OEM with Fram-made filters, and the Nissan OEM filter is Fram-like in build. Mercedes uses a fleece filter to achieve 8-10K OCIs, the diesel engine makers like Cummins and Detroit Diesel use fine-pore filters and "venturi" filters, while Toyota soldiers on with old-school paper.
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