I'm just curious as I come from BMWs.

For the newer sealed transmissions, for those who don't utilise flush machines and prefer the old fashion drain the pan etc.

Do those who do the above, after you've removed the drain plug and drained all the ATF, do you guys do the 10 second engine trick of starting the engine and allowing the torque converter to pump out a little extra fluid.

Usually you get some more fluid come out of the drain plug....

This works fine on BMW transmissions that I've done and I don't see why it wouldn't work on this Aisin world standard ones.....

However it's only 7-10 seconds you run the engine..

 

In most cases, unless the old fluid is in poor condition (burnt/overheated, excessively-darkened, moisture-contaminated, full of shavings/gasket-material, etc....) I probably wouldn't worry about getting all of it out of the torque-converter. Just add the new fluid per factory-specs, and the addition of new fluid (a little at a time, so it will mix gradually with the old and not overfill the unit) will usually ensure adequate lubrication until the next scheduled change.

With many of today's newer cars, it is important, for a number of reasons, that you use the exact fluid specified in the Owners' Manual or Service-Manual for that particular transmission (or a comparable aftermarket fluid that will meet warranty requirements). Long-gone are the days where, like with engine-oil, you could just walk in to an auto-parts-shop, grab the cheapest stuff off the shelf you could find, and pour it in, with little regard for what the car was actually getting. That just doesn't work any more.

I agree, BTW, with your general caution in not using flush-machines. Flushers, if used correctly, can clean the inside of the transmission almost like new. But the operator has to know exactly what he or she is doing. The chemicals/detergents in the solution have to be mixed just right. Too little pressure in the flush, of course, defeats the purpose and doesn't do enough cleaning, while too much pressure can damage gaske/seals and cause leaks. And if the transmission and fluid have a whole lot of miles on them and have never been changed, a flush-machine (even prepared and set-up properly) is probably the worst possible thing you could give it. The gaskets and seals are likely to be in such bad shape that the detergent-pressure from the machine will eat into the deteriorated parts of the materials and turn them into Swiss Cheese with holes, causing multiple-leaks. Even simply adding new transmission fluid (with its detergent-additives) under those circumstances could also cause leaks by eating into parts of the bad sedals/gaskets. Usually, with a very old transmission and fluid has never been drained or serviced, the best thing to do is just keep running it till it dies.

(I got several of these tips, BTW, from both dealer-technicians and local transmission shops)

 

Just drain and refill with the exact amount you removed, my suggestion is if you want to get more out just do another drain and refill with the next oil change, I have seen enough idiots ruin cars with cheap old school tricks.

Dealers nolonger flush cause they realized they are responsible for causing the trans to fail

 

Indeed but was just curious if anyone had ran the engine when all the oil had come out. This usually pushes another litre or so out.

 

Running the engine with tranny fluid drained, you are brave.

Maybe it does work, but my common sense tells me don't run anything if there is no fluid in it.

I rather change it a few more times if I want to really refresh more fluids.

 

I would never start the car with fluid draining out or drained.
Without the proper lubrication, even a few seconds of contact between moving parts can be damaging.

 

Sorry we're on about the tranmission not the engine.

On the ZF and GM transmissions I did this a few times , it just pushes a bit of extra fluid out, as you start the engine then the torque converter will spin aswell.

It's only for 7-10 seconds, a bit longer then you will start talking about running the pump dry..

I'll make a video of all of this tbh.

 

When you drain the pain you drain around 3-4 litres of about 11 litres. So you will still have a good 7 odd litres held in the torque converter. A quick spin of the torque converter with the engine running will push another litre or so out. It's pumping air, which is the idea. But there is no pressure, so there is no gear side-loading, and the oil film is enough to deal with the rotational stuff.

 

I know what you mean, it is probably ok since you have done it before. But it sounds dangerous to me, maybe I shouldn't comment since I really don't know the details.

In my opinion, pretty much all torque converter tranny are the same, so if it works on BMW, ZF and GM's tranny, it most likely works the same way on the Aisin tranny.

 

does the RX330 have a filter for the tranny?

 

How many times have you done this?

How many kilometres on the post fluid change transmissions have you recorded?

Have you ever done a test on the fluid before you endevoured to certainly void whatever warranty remained on the gearbox?

I'd call it a lot more prudent to take an oil sample, have it tested, then decide what, if anything, needs to be done. If the results come back bad, then obviously who cares about an extra litre - 4 out of 11 vs. 3 out of 11?

If you're doing this out of some sense of "the manufacturer can't possibly be right about this maintenance schedule" I am truly sorry for your automobiles.

 

I've done it 7-8 times. A sample below

330d- 97,000 miles, sold on 150k
530i - 100k - sold on 127k I believe
530i - 132k - sold on 139k no issues

Those all included multiple fluid changes, pan drops etc.

I think us Brits take a different view on transmissions to you guys, we aren't scared to change the fluid because of some "horror" stories from over the pond! And it only costs us $1800 to have a transmission taken out and fully rebuild inc the torque converter.

I am actually changing it because it's been towed with,but I still would have changed it anyway..

Cars always had no warranty.

If you really think tranmission fluid lasts a lifetime or doesn't need changing, or you think the manufacturers to think about the car after 10 years then that's fine. I'm not going to dispute that, but this topic is about changing the oil, not shall I change the oil, please note the difference.

 

Scared? Not at all. I come from a background in racing and heavy equipment. Lots of fluid changes for lots of things. However, it sounds like you've not looked at the service manual for the level setting procedure. It also sounds like your experience is tiny. You've never hit the 250k mile service life with your changes, much less the factory fill, so the only thing you really know is your changes didn't kill your gearboxes. Only the subsequent owners of your vehicles have a clue about the longevity of your actions.

As I said, I take a sample of the fluid, have it tested, then determine what needs to be done next. Testing a sample is $20. The WS fluid is significantly more money than the analysis, so testing is even pretty economical. Then I have a valid reason for changing something and I know it's necessary. I do the same with engine oil.

FWIW, here's how to set the level on the AA80E. Not nearly as simple as the typical backyard mechanic would like, and a great deal of why it is foolish to mess with it:



Last, but not least, the results of my ATF testing after 73k+ miles including 6 track weekends:



So tell me again why squeezing an extra litre - from 3.7 to 4.7 with a dry fill of 10.5 litres is going to make a big difference?