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Some of these seem old-fashioned to me and may no longer be true with new computer controls.
These are 10 common bad driving habits that can cause major damage to your car:
Resting Your Hand on the Shifter: Unless you're actively changing gears, there's no reason to touch the shifter. Resting your hand on the shifter places weight on the transmission's bushings and synchronizers, causing internal wear. Keeping both hands on the steering wheel, and only taking one off to switch gears, is the best idea. (Modern, electronic shift levers have no mechanical connection to the transmission's bushings and synchonizers.)
Not Using the Parking Brake: Neglecting to use the parking brake forces the entire weight of your vehicle to rest on the parking pawl, which is one little piece of metal within the transmission. Doing this could cause the parking pawl to eventually wear out and break, making "P" on your shifter effectively useless. Use the parking brake every time – there's really no reason not to.
Hauling Unneeded Weight: You may not drive a Lotus, but the phrase "simplify, and add lightness" applies to every car. We're not advocating stripping out sound deadening or removing the back seats, but you should clear out unneeded cargo from your car. Every pound of extra weight impacts fuel economy and handling, plus causes extra stress on suspension, brake, and drivetrain components. Give your interior and trunk a thorough clean so you're only carrying the essentials. (Back when RWD American metal was commonplace, we were advised to place sandbags in the trunk to help with traction in the winter.)
Only Keeping a Small Amount of Fuel in the Tank: Sometimes the cost of a full tank of gas doesn't fit into your budget, so you only add a gallon or two at a time. Most drivers don't know that this can lead to costly repairs further down the road. Modern fuel pumps are cooled by being submerged in fuel, so driving with only a small amount of fuel causes it to heat up and wear out more quickly. Keeping your gas tank at least a quarter full helps prevent this.
Hard Starts and Stops: This one's a no-brainer. Mashing on the gas can be fun, but uses significantly more fuel than gradually applying throttle. Sudden stops are sometimes necessary, but cause faster wear to the brake pads and rotors. Looking ahead, planning ahead, and pressing on the pedals smoothly is the best strategy.
Revving the Engine When It's Cold: It's not a bad idea to let the engine idle for a minute or two after a cold start (uh-oh, starting the "let the engine warm up before driving" debate again). This helps it warm up and gives the oil some time to circulate. However, you should resist the urge to rev the engine when it's cold. Sure, the exhaust sounds great, but revving it when it's cold causes abrupt temperature changes that can damage components. It also causes undue wear on parts of the engine that haven't been lubricated by thorough oil circulation. Your engine will sound better, and rev more smoothly, once it's had a chance to warm up.
Riding the Clutch: You're at a stop light in your manual transmission car. You're pressing on the clutch, ready to drop it as soon as the light turns green. All that time spent waiting with the clutch in damages the pressure plate, release bearing, and release arm. Riding the clutch causes its surfaces graze against each other, wearing them down and opening the possibility for sudden failure. It's better to be stopped with the clutch out and shifter in neutral, only pressing the clutch and engaging gear when the light turns green. (Daddy, what's a clutch?)
Switching From Reverse to Drive Before Stopping Completely: When you're trying to fit into a tight parking spot, it's common to shift from reverse to drive while still slowly rolling backwards. This habit should be avoided at all costs. Doing so places strain on the drivetrain when it's suddenly forced to move in the opposite direction. Simply take that extra moment to make sure you're completely stopped before switching from reverse to drive.
Dragging the Brakes Downhill: Driving down a steep hill can be daunting, so you rest your foot on the brake pedal to be ready to slow down at a moment's notice. This causes strain and heat to build up in the brake system, wearing out components like brake pads and rotors. Instead, you should shift into a lower gear when you're driving downhill. This will cause engine braking, which helps slow the car down through natural drivetrain decompression. You'll find that engine braking can be as effective as regular braking in maintaining your downhill speed. (Are there modern automagic transmissions that do not downshift when going downhill?)
Ignoring Warning Signs: It's easy to ignore those little squeaks, intermittent rattles, or other unusual noises your car makes. Those sounds are warning signs that something's wearing out or about to go wrong. Don't wait to find out the cause of the noise, or it may make itself abundantly clear at the worst possible time. If your car is making strange sounds or giving you other warning signs, it's important to inspect the issue right away. (This could be another, separate discussion by itself.)
7 and 8 are wrong. Not that riding the clutch isn't bad (it is), but the author incorrectly defines it. Holding the clutch fully disengaged does not cause any wear. That's what disengaged means. Riding the clutch refers to driving with the clutch partially disengaged, which means the surfaces never "lock" together and spin as a single unit. This causes enormous wear on the clutch plate and can actually burn the pressure plate. This is very bad. But holding the pedal down at a stop light is how you're supposed to drive a manual.
As for 8, we've discussed that in a recent thread. At the speeds we're talking about in a parking situation, there's far less stress on the drivetrain components when changing direction than even a moderately quick start from a stop. Rolling 20 in reverse, pop into drive and hammer the gas? Yeah, that's bad. Transitioning from 1mph in reverse to the same speed forward, without coming to a complete stop first? no big deal.
I'll add another one....using windshield wipers unnecessarily. I see this all the time.....drivers using either constant-action or intermittent-action wipers set at too fast a cycle for the amount of water on the windshield. This causes a lot of wear on the glass and wiper blades from abrasion, and can cause fine arc-shaped scratches in the glass (some of those arc-scratches happen anyway per time,...it is very hard to prevent them). Typically, what happens is that when the rain eases or lets up, the driver, concerned with other things, simply forgets to adjust the wiper-cycle down or turn them off. Even if the rain doesn't let up and keeps falls at the same rate, as your speed drops (or you come to a stop), the wipers don't have to wipe as much to keep the glass dry, because the rain builds up on the glass less.
Some vehicles have speed-sensing wipers that automatically speed them up and slow them down as the car's road speed changes or stops....a nice feature when the rate of rainfall isn't changing. Others have what are called "rain-sensing wipers" that go on and off automatically when water or raindrops are detected on the windshield. I don't like that feature, for two reasons. First, the sensors can be fooled and triggered by things that aren't water or raindrops, and the wiper-blades will grind unnecessarily on dry or dirty glass. Second, even if there are true raindrops on the windshield for the sensors, there could also be other things on the glass, too, that would be harmful for the wipers to grind against, such as some tree/bird-droppings, insect-droppings, small twigs, etc... That's why it's important to make sure the glass is also relatively clean before using the wipers...so they don't grind things into the glass that they aren't supposed to.
I also don't care for the way some vehicles automatically turn on the wipers on immediately when you hit the windshield-washers....I prefer the two functions separately. That's because if the wipers start swiping before the spray-jet of cleaning solution wets the glass enough to prevent abrasion, the glass and blades will get a lot of wear for several seconds. I prefer a system where you can separately spray the solution on the glass first, get it wet, and THEN turn on the wipers to clear it all off. I just wonder if the engineers thought about that when they came up with the simultaneous washer/wiper action.
Last, of course, if you are driving a vehicle with a rear-wiper, such as a wagon/SUV, don't forget to also turn that off, too, when you are done with the fronts. That's something else that I see quite often.....Outbacks, SUVs, and similar vehicles with the front wipers stopped and the rear ones still churning away. In general, when the car is moving forward, rain won't collect on the rear window as quickly as on the windshield, because the rain is generally being blown away from the window by the airstream, rather than towards it. But the rear window can actually get dirtier than the front more quickly, because road grime and dirt mixed with the water ends up on it.
1. Guilty
2. Always use it
3. Good about keeping few items in the car
4. Guilty, I'll run it to 0 sometimes
5. Moderate acceleration and firm stops. 300hp and F-Sport 6/4 pistons can't help it
6. I let it warm up
7. N/A
8. I never do unless by accident, even then seldom
9. I engine brake
10. Very in tune with noises and sounds with my car
i was once naive about not using the parking brake until my friend told me about the error in my ways. now my procedure goes: shift into neutral, set parking brake, let it rest on the parking brake, then shift into park.
i think i'm probably the best at letting it warm up before putting it under any sort of serious load lol... i'm very grateful for my dad's E63 because it has an oil temperature sensor in addition to a coolant temp sensor, and before this i had no idea how much longer the oil takes to warm up than the coolant. i'm happy to know this because now i always give it at least an additional 10 min after the coolant is at operating temperature before really putting my foot down at all. and according to the blackstone laboratories report my LS has less metal in the oil than comparable 1UZ engines so i guess i'm doing a good job at it and the car still makes GREAT power and really jumps off the line like few other cars do, including the E63.
Not Using the Parking Brake: Neglecting to use the parking brake forces the entire weight of your vehicle to rest on the parking pawl, which is one little piece of metal within the transmission. Doing this could cause the parking pawl to eventually wear out and break, making "P" on your shifter effectively useless. Use the parking brake every time – there's really no reason not to
I don't think there is much truth to this whatsoever. Vehicle manufacturers will not allow a safety situation like this to happen. This is just an armchair critic.
I don't think there is much truth to this whatsoever. Vehicle manufacturers will not allow a safety situation like this to happen. This is just an armchair critic.
Sorry, Jill, but there IS a lot of truth to that. Engineers came up with the PARK system for automatic transmissions as basically an emergency device in case the parking brake fails. Vehicles, particularly on hills, are meant to be secured with the parking brake, which is designed to hold the entire weight of the car when gravity is pulling down on it. The PARK system is essentially a metal prowl that, when activated, is inserted into the transmission's mechanicals (often through holes in specific sets of gears) to essentially lock the transmission and keep the gears from from turning. If, when parking, the parking brake is not properly used (with a manual pull-up lever or step-on pedal, it should be adjusted, as needed, to around two or three clicks to properly engage), and the transmission is placed in PARK, it probably will not matter much on a level or relatively level surface, unless something hits the car and actually pushes it forward or back. But, on a hill or other grade, gravity will obviously try to pull the vehicle down......and, without assistance from the parking brake holding the vehicle back, that will place a big strain on the metal prowl in the transmission. For obvious reasons, those parking-prowls are made out of very strong materials (such as case-hardened steel). But, if the weight of the vehicle, without the parking brake, strains them long enough from metal fatigue, even they can beak....or if they themselves don't, can cause the gears they are run through to break or fail. In manual-transmission cars, of course, leaving the car in gear when parked has the same general effect....but not as rigidly as with a parking prowl. Also, if you remember from driving school, an old rule, before all auto-transmission vehicles had the PARK feature, was to leave the wheels turned towards the curb when parked on a hill so the car wouldn't roll away if everything failed.
In general, my rule of thumb (and it has worked well for me through the years) is, when parking on a hill, apply the parking brake FIRST, make sure it is secure (which will keep the weight off the parking prowl), THEN place the transmission in PARK. Been doing that for almost 50 years.....and I've never had a car roll away on me.
I don't think there is much truth to this whatsoever. Vehicle manufacturers will not allow a safety situation like this to happen. This is just an armchair critic.
You are totally wrong. Read the manual, almost every manual will tell you that you must use the parking brake every time you park. And in cars with automatic parking brakes, why do they automatically set?
Several years ago we had a CL/LOC member have his ES350 bumped into when in park and he watched it roll out of the parking lot and into traffic because it broke off the parking pawl. When I had the Jeep and posted on the Jeep forum this happened there once also.
9.9/10 you'll be fine just in park, but in situations where your car gets bumped or hit, especially on an incline it may not hold so why take the chance?
Not Using the Parking Brake: Neglecting to use the parking brake forces the entire weight of your vehicle to rest on the parking pawl, which is one little piece of metal within the transmission. Doing this could cause the parking pawl to eventually wear out and break, making "P" on your shifter effectively useless. Use the parking brake every time – there's really no reason not to.
Originally Posted by LexsCTJill
I don't think there is much truth to this whatsoever. Vehicle manufacturers will not allow a safety situation like this to happen. This is just an armchair critic.
The reason for NOT relying on the parking PAWL (note the spelling -- it is not PRAWL or PROWL) is explained right there, in that note:
Neglecting to use the parking brakeforces the entire weight of your vehicle to rest on the parking pawl, which is one little piece of metal within the transmission. Doing this could cause the parking pawl to eventually wear out and break...
I found an image of a typical parking pawl: When you place the transmission into PARK, the transmission forces this lever in between 2 gear teeth, preventing the gear from turning. But by looking at that image, you could easily imagine the business end of the pawl (which essentially is just one gear tooth) wearing out and no longer working.
When the pawl wears out and you want to replace it, consider this:Would you rather pay to service your brakes or pay to service (mechanical service, not fluid change) your transmission? Transmission repairs are more expensive than brake servicing.
I found an image of a typical parking pawl: When you place the transmission into PARK, the transmission forces this lever in between 2 gear teeth, preventing the gear from turning. But by looking at that image, you could easily imagine the business end of the pawl (which essentially is just one gear tooth) wearing out and no longer working.
When the pawl wears out and you want to replace it, consider this:Would you rather pay to service your brakes or pay to service (mechanical service, not fluid change) your transmission? Transmission repairs are more expensive than brake servicing.
Pawls are typically made out of some very durable substances (case-hardened steel most readily comes to mind)....but, with enough wear and abuse, even they would be subject to metal fatigue.
And the can fail even when they aren't worn in the cases I mentioned above.
Yeah or if you have an old 80's/90's MOPAR, they can just suddenly jump out of park for no reason. They had a recall on the K-cars and a couple of other models with this issue.
I also have an issue with #3 and #8
#3 Carrying extra weight. I have about 200lbs of concrete blocks in the back of my truck. Reg cab Tacoma rides like crap unloaded due to the short wheelbase and its a truck, stiff rear springs designed to haul weight. The other benefit is traction, its spin city in the rain with this truck and no weight in the back. Unloaded and with snow, its almost undrivable.
#8 You aren't going to wear anything out by having the clutch fully pressed in with the car in 1st at a stoplight. The engine and transmission are fully disengaged, where you have problems is if you are lazy and only push the clutch in just enough to keep the engine from dying out. The clutch might not be fully disengaged from the engine, so you could be slipping the clutch, even at idle. With the brakes on you wouldn't notice it, since you wouldn't be creeping forward.
Doesn't have to be an old mopar. Like I said, happened to at least one Lexus I know, and happened on the Jeep forum also, both after minor parking lot bumps.
#3 Carrying extra weight. I have about 200lbs of concrete blocks in the back of my truck. Reg cab Tacoma rides like crap unloaded due to the short wheelbase and its a truck, stiff rear springs designed to haul weight. The other benefit is traction, its spin city in the rain with this truck and no weight in the back. Unloaded and with snow, its almost undrivable.
That's why they make 4WD pickups, though IMO some pickup manufacturers have delayed too long in offering automatic 4WD/AWD in addition to (or in place of) the ancient, archaic part-time 4WD systems.
#8 You aren't going to wear anything out by having the clutch fully pressed in with the car in 1st at a stoplight. The engine and transmission are fully disengaged, where you have problems is if you are lazy and only push the clutch in just enough to keep the engine from dying out. The clutch might not be fully disengaged from the engine, so you could be slipping the clutch, even at idle. With the brakes on you wouldn't notice it, since you wouldn't be creeping forward.
Actually, yes you will. Doing that puts a lot of wear on the throwout bearing....plus a certain amount of wear on your left knee LOL. However, in heavy traffic, with honking, impatient drivers behind you who want you to want to floor it as soon as the light turns green, sometimes doing that is actually more practical. That way, you don't have to take extra time to press the clutch in, find first gear, and let the clutch out gradually again to take off. People shouldn't be like that, but, unfortunately, many are.
I have no doubts that the pawl wears down eventually, but I have never in my entire life experienced any issues as such or known any. perhaps one needs to be at x degrees to start having problems. I know living in san fran would be a huge no..no...