RealWing

Do you happen to have a p/n for the TRD filter?

Cocal

Yes here it is TRD # PTR 43-00082 it should fit your model as well, let me know.

salimshah

Moving to car chat where it can get more appropriate audience and input.

Salim

danielTRLK

1. Well you did mention you never redlined in during the break in period. Either way, warm up the engine to operating temp. Then in forth gear, bring it up to 3,800RPM and let the car decelerate by itself until the trans overrides you in manual mode and shifts into third. Repeat that four times and let it cool down five minutes. Repeat that step but this time up to 5,000RPM. The last time you will repeat this, bring it up to redline five times and then drive home. I prefer using a more traditional conventional oil than not, but the Amsoil will be ok. This should get you fully seated in, and we can confirm on your next UOA that you seated, although please be careful, I don't know your area and forth gear might be a fast trip to jail or the hospital!!! If you can't use forth safely, use third gear and the last time bring it to redline 6 times.

2. I used to have the specs but I'm pretty sure it performs better than the specs they claim. I think WIX doesn't even realize how well their filters are performing. UOA is the only way I care to quantify as often times the lab tests used to develop specs are no where near real world conditions. I've seen so many products under perform, I say just look at the UOA to determine filters. I have yet to find a filter than can top the WIX XP, without getting into the $250 price point. The Purolator is also very good but I've always seen WIX do better.

3. Ok, yeah I lose track of all these laws and ethanol percentages. It's sad, people really blame ethanol for a lot of things that are coming from the gasoline and the oil companies are spreading this disinformation on purpose. Remember, every percentage of ethanol used is billions of dollars in lost revenue for big oil. Ethanol not only burns clean and a lot cooler than gasoline, it doesn't harm the internals like gasoline does nor does it leave deposits. Ethanol in high percentages will actually clean off gasoline deposits over time or in the case of E10-E15, keep the deposits down. Plus ethanol production is getting more efficient every day.

4. Not too bad, certainly cheaper and better than Blackstone, considering you get both the TAN and TBN.

Bet your Mopar car is a lot of fun!

RealWing

Thanks

Will be interesting to see the results!!
Having about 475 HEMI HP on tap is a blast!!

danielTRLK

Ha! lol that thing looks like a big blast!!!

bagwell

5 qt jug of synthetic oil is $25, oil filter is what, $8? cheap insurance - just change it at 5000.

Johnhav430

I know this is a never ending topic here, bitog, everywhere....I felt with my LS430 5k is excessive. But without a OLM, what can we do? I use "whatever's on sale" as far as full synth, i.e. rebate, and a WIX XP filter that costs $6. We can go as far as saying a) synth that costs $23 - $12 rebate is a waste, car didn't come with it b) why are you using a WIX XP filter, when a Toyota OE filter is < $4? But if we accept these two conditions, now it becomes, why are you throwing away good oil at 5k when it can go 15k or 10k, where the other camp goes I would never go further than the recommended interval, why do you know more than Toyota engineers?

The third variable is someone who pretty much intelligently discounted the "lab report" in the subforum, long story short is what are you actually measuring, and how are you drawing such conclusions.

At the end of the day, in my unscientific fashion, I threw a dart on the wall and it landed on 6,500, so that's what I'm doing on my 3UZ motor. Subjectively I bet 10k is not a problem. But if it buys any peace of mind, do 7,500. 5k is too soon even with dino juice, but nowadays with rebates, I don't even bother with it. I'm comfortable paying about $11-$14 for a 5 qt jug of synth. Even with my twin turbo BMW, don't bother with $8/qt. oil, use the Walmart stuff as long as it has the LL-01 approval, which is currently Castrol Edge Euro 0W40. The car will let me do I thought it was 18k (they upped it at some point with software, since they were paying for 4 yrs.), but I stop at 7,500.

edit ps the only thing about walmart is you have to be certain it wasn't opened before. I once got pennzoil platinum filled with used motor oil, I was beside myself and have checked ever since. yes, they accepted it in return, the counter could have cared less. Mobil has a foil seal, but with pennzoil, make sure the cap "breaks" upon opening

ArmyofOne

Ahh the age-old oil debate. Lets keep it civil in here folks. (That's not directed at anyone in particular, just a general statement).

I run 5k on the ES with Valvoline Max-Life full synthetic. My truck gets a 10k interval on Redline synthetic oil, and my wife's civic just goes until the service light comes on, roughly every 10k miles.

FastFord

Lots of great info here...Thanks to all those that posted this information.

If the previous owner changed his oil after 5K that's a good thing for you.

Driving conditions such as mostly stop and go, short little trips where the engine doesn't have a chance to heat up, very dusty conditions, wild temperature changes (winter) all dictate when I would be changing my oil. Even with synthetic, 0W-20 I go around 6000-8000 miles before a change. That's just me, not right or wrong, but I'm still old school and if I spend and extra 200 over 4 years, no big deal.

danielTRLK

Valid remarks I'll try to best comment on.

BITOG is no longer science based. Most people on BITOG have no experience in this field. BITOG sold out to it's sponsors a long time ago, in my opinion, it's to be avoided as it has gone down hill.

What made you "feel" 5K on your LS430 is excessive? OLM are rarely accurate, they're an attempt at trying to get people past the 3,000 mile marker and it works but they're usually inaccurate. Get UOA from a good source (very very few guys in the industry can do this for automotive) and set an OCI based on that.

You can't say synthetic is a waste. Increased fuel economy, wear protection, efficiency and power can not be considered waste. Problem is most cheap synthetics are not much better than their conventional siblings as they really aren't synthetic. Mobil 1 for example is a Group III blended base stock.

I hear this often, Toyota engineers this, that. The problem is I'm not an engineer and they are not oil analysts. People assume OEM's do UOA when they really don't, a little bit here and there but that's about it. Also, everyone assumes Toyota engineers set the OCIs. They have to receive input from legal, marketing, sales, and many departments. The less an engine consumes oil during it's life, the less they get penalized by the EPA. I give the example when people say but the OEM would never steer me wrong, surely VW, the maker of clean diesel would never make a dirty diesel! Nor would BMW, MB, GM, FCA USA, Porsche, Audi, and all the others not covered. Also many behind the scenes deals with the oil companies and the auto makers that you would never know about.

I'm measuring wear particles, combustion dynamic and many more variables. If you have experience doing UOA in conjunction with tear downs, you can see things other can not correlate. If you have experience working with racing teams, OEM's, Formulators, and engine builders you can see things that others can't. The final short portion to this answer, if you have a wide range of UOA in your own proprietary database, you have information others don't. For example, one guy has grilled me here on another thread and he genuinely believes Toyota has a UOA lab. Don't forget when Toyota needs computer's or direct injection modules, they call Denso, as THEY are the experts not Toyota. Toyota has to put a bunch of pieces together to make a reliable car, engineers design how the car will fit, they don't design every single component nor do they have time.

One example of what I'm looking at is Nitration. As air enters the combustion chamber, if an improper A/F is being run, nitrates will be blown past the rings and into the engine oil. It is one way I can tell you if an engine is running rich or lean just from the engine oil. There's a similar technique I use with water to see the fueling conditions of an engine, so I can see both Air and Fuel and how they interact, how they burn, how much is being injected and ejected.

Some cars will do ok on cheap oil, most can do better though. There is no one definite answer, it's a fluid field. Lol. One example I did for my GT-R guys was we strapped down two GT-R's, one completely stock, the other making 2000WHP. Climate controlled facility, every variable imaginable controlled. The difference between oils was a measurable amount of HP. What was more interesting was not the HP difference but the engine struggled less with the higher quality oils I selected for those engines. Toward the of the dyno charts, you could see the cheap oil would make the engine jump up and down. The higher quality oils kept the power steady, the dyno chart lines were telling.

Johnhav430

Here's a quick question, would BMW OE oil (say 5W30) be a group IV or V, or is it too group III? I've seen that kicked around and I thought it was III. I just can't pay $8/qt., honestly don't feel it's worth it. Simply make sure the Walmart oil has LL-01 on the jug. And with the LS430, my reasoning is it was not filled from the factory with synth, so Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Platinum are good enough for me, and I am comfortable with the $11-$14 per jug price after rebate....as far as going further than 5,000, my opinion is Lexus invented a 5k service for revenue purposes. Right or wrong, my Maxima went a 1/4 million miles and didn't have any issues, and it used dino juice for most of its life....seriously I would say my big factor is price....when Mobil 1 was LL-01 and I got $12 rebates, I was a happy man! lol

danielTRLK

Group III for the Twin Turbo Power, the others you would have to run them through a GC machine to compare. They're using Shell and Castrol for their OE oils so you can pretty much bet they're III's blended base stocks. A lot of people dislike Group III oils, but the best oil I have ever seen perform in general starts out as a Group III with a V.

Mobil 1 and Pennzoil UP and P are not bad oils. One has to factor expenses and priorities, for the every day corolla is running RLI really worth it compared to Mobil 1 if you can get it that cheap? I rarely recommend anything more than an off the shelf oil for a less expensive vehicle or engine unless it needs it. For performance vehicles, different story, but daily drivers that don't get abused, there are some good off the shelf combos that work well.

Lexus does indeed sell "quality service and repairs". This is a big component to Lexus ownership. An ambulance company I used to do lots of UOA for, found out that even though they were saving loads of money on engines they were suffering more break downs elsewhere. We narrowed the issue down to, because we had drastically extended the drains the vehicles were no longer being checked out as often, hence they were deteriorating at a faster rate. We ended up correcting this by bringing the drains somewhere in the middle. Point is they want to inspect the car often.

I thought you said you don't go further than 5K on your oil. Got confused, sorry. I would suggest for the extra $3 to switch to the M1 Extended Performance, much better formula than the M1. The WIX XP is a great choice and performs extremely well.

chromedome

What about hybrids when it comes to valve seating and deposit buildup? There's no way to control the gears on an ES300h because it has no gears The engine starts and stops all the time in urban traffic so I'm wondering if gunk can quickly build up.

I'm using the standard synthetic that came with the car and I'm changing the oil every 10k km or 6000 miles.

Johnhav430

When I had that 2016 BMW 328 loaner for 4 1/2 mos, I mostly drove it in ECO PRO, and used the auto stop/start, meaning it stopped at lights. At first I wondered if it's additional wear/tear, but quickly appreciated that this car could do 26 mpg on my commute (LS430 19.x, 335i 21.x, Maxima 21.7). At the end of the day I feel this, and all cars, which stop/start at lights, were designed to do it. It's not the same as taking an old car, shutting it off, then restarting, every time you reach a light, that would in fact probably take life off of the starter. I think following the recommended intervals on a hybrid would be fine, though I've never owned one. As far as valves go, sure some direct injected cars need a walnut blast to clean the intake side, but it's not due to oil changes (or lack thereof)...