Buying used, which Lexus? ES, GS or LS? help...
#16
It depends on what year the 430 is. I owned a 2004 that I kept for 8 years and 250k miles and upgraded about 18 months go to the 460L. I don't personally like the exterior of the '01-'03 LS430 so if you could get a '04-'06 in that range I'd probably get that over a 2008 460. FWIW, certain 2004's had a strange transmission shifting thing - I think it was tied to the ECU. If I were buying, I'd try to get a 2005 or 2006. Here's why I'd go 430 in your scenario above:
- I understand the Dave Ramsey approach. Since that's what you're leaning towards, I think you shoot for the best vehicle with the lowest odds of issues/repairs.
- If you can get a 2005 or 2006 at that price point, most of the kinks are worked out in those model years and odds are decent you'll have a reliable car on your hands. A 2008 is susceptible to some pretty expensive repairs - control arms, brake actuator, and also cosmetic issue like "sticky" or "melting" door panels. You would be looking at a few thousand to repair all of that if you were unlucky enough to have a 2008 suffering from those issues.
- Having owned both a 430 and 460, I prefer everything about the 460 EXCEPT the engine. That 430 engine is so quiet and so smooth - I definitely miss it. I find the styling of the 430 a bit dated but you're going for value so you may not be as concerned about that - plus it's subjective.
- I think if you get a late model year 430 that has been well maintained and checks out well in an inspection that your odds of a major expense is pretty minimal. I sold mine at 250k and never had anything big go wrong. Outside of routine maintenance, I remember replacing a door lock actuator and a window motor. I think they were both about $300 to $350 done at Toyota. One thing of note: on 430 you have a timing belt that recommends changing every 90k whereas 460 is a chain, so you save money on the 460 maintenance in that regard.
- In your situation and for your goals, I would take the car with lower miles at the lower price in most situations. An LS with 150k miles doesn't scare me at all (I also kept an LS 400 well over 200k miles) but an additional 50k miles may take its toll on the car depending on the driving conditions.
Long story short comparing a LS430 to a LS460 within the price range, I'd rather spend more on a used LS430, than the same on a used LS460.
There's always option C that DR would approve of. Get a 3 y.o. Camry with 35,000 miles that is a previous loaner. When I bought the LS430 used, I could have gotten a Camry 10 yrs. newer with 1-2k left on its original warranty, for the same price. That car should last a very long time, well beyond the 5/70 criteria...we're not talking 10k obviously more, in 2016 it was 14k.
#17
People say get a 13 or newer just because of all of the upgrades made to the car in 2013, not because earlier cars are an issue. Personally I would avoid an 07 or 08 just because they did have some teething issues, but after that I think you're totally fine.
I wouldn't pay more for an older car than a newer car, no.
Long story short comparing a LS430 to a LS460 within the price range, I'd rather spend more on a used LS430, than the same on a used LS460.
#18
People say get a 13 or newer just because of all of the upgrades made to the car in 2013, not because earlier cars are an issue. Personally I would avoid an 07 or 08 just because they did have some teething issues, but after that I think you're totally fine.
I wouldn't pay more for an older car than a newer car, no.
I wouldn't pay more for an older car than a newer car, no.
#20
What I'm driving at is I'd rather have a smaller house, in a better neighborhood. Just making it up, say there were 2 cars same price, a 2006 LS430, and a 2009 LS460. The implication is that the 2009 is in below average shape, as it's generally worth more...all things being equal
#21
Again my situation was it was 10/16, and I was looking for a 2006 LS430 (at first 2005 or 2006, then I "thought" the 2005 had 290 HP v. 278, then learned they are indentical so back to 2006). There were some crazy prices at the local dealer--$21,995, NUTS!! 60k miles. Went to a further dealer they wanted $13,995 for a 2005 with 79k, and agreed to throw in the timing belt/water pump, but the car had been clearly resprayed. Finally, I said I want a FLA or TX (or CA) car, and one was for sale in Westchester, NY. I sent a lowball email offer to which they said they cannot do, and did not even counter. So I know it was in their region of pain. Anyhow, in the end I got the car for about $500 more than that but 2 wks had passed. car had 81k and was in the $14's.
2 benefits imho of that dealer. It was a GMC dealer i.e. they took it in trade. If it were a below avg. car they would have wholesaled it. Also, NYS has a 1 mo./1k warranty by law on the powertrain. If the mileage were under 80k, it would have been 3 mo./3k. Not much, but prevents a total rip-off. I got the car home and there was zero coolant in the expansion tank and none could be seen in the radiator. I was thinking great, blown head gaskets but at least I got a warranty by law. Turns out this is normal hahahahahahahahahahaha and nothing is wrong. Been 27k miles and 22 mos. now. (of course refilled the coolant, then decided to have Lexus drain fill, then drain filled again when TB/WP done by indie)
Then, day 1, brakes pulsated (didn't drive hard enough on test drive), and driver door actuator not working (common to LS430, $840 at Lexus, many DIY). In the end, the GMC dealer did the brakes with Lexus OE parts, and fixed the door actuator, gratis. This imho won't happen at a used car dealer nor a private party sale, where caveat emptor, reigns supreme.
edit Long story short, I would like to buy a used car from a new car dealer, NYS isn't a bad thing, a FLA or TX or non rust belt car would be good at this age, and I would try to get the price as low as possible, clearly lower than what a used car dealer wants. It can be done.....my thoughts and YMMV....
edit 2 it dawned on me that this GMC dealer treated me much better on a used $14k car, than any near me on a brand new car costing 4X, too bad so far away. A car already sold, bad brakes, broken door actuator, fixed free, no hassle. The dealer here made a mistake on our state inspection month because we did it early, and then ARGUED with me saying my inspection expires in August, which is why it now has an 8 month (why do I have pics of the car with 9's on the windshield, and why do you have service records of us coming in in September for inspections, AND YOU SOLD US THE VEHICLE IN SEP 2011!!). Different cust svc mentality.
2 benefits imho of that dealer. It was a GMC dealer i.e. they took it in trade. If it were a below avg. car they would have wholesaled it. Also, NYS has a 1 mo./1k warranty by law on the powertrain. If the mileage were under 80k, it would have been 3 mo./3k. Not much, but prevents a total rip-off. I got the car home and there was zero coolant in the expansion tank and none could be seen in the radiator. I was thinking great, blown head gaskets but at least I got a warranty by law. Turns out this is normal hahahahahahahahahahaha and nothing is wrong. Been 27k miles and 22 mos. now. (of course refilled the coolant, then decided to have Lexus drain fill, then drain filled again when TB/WP done by indie)
Then, day 1, brakes pulsated (didn't drive hard enough on test drive), and driver door actuator not working (common to LS430, $840 at Lexus, many DIY). In the end, the GMC dealer did the brakes with Lexus OE parts, and fixed the door actuator, gratis. This imho won't happen at a used car dealer nor a private party sale, where caveat emptor, reigns supreme.
edit Long story short, I would like to buy a used car from a new car dealer, NYS isn't a bad thing, a FLA or TX or non rust belt car would be good at this age, and I would try to get the price as low as possible, clearly lower than what a used car dealer wants. It can be done.....my thoughts and YMMV....
edit 2 it dawned on me that this GMC dealer treated me much better on a used $14k car, than any near me on a brand new car costing 4X, too bad so far away. A car already sold, bad brakes, broken door actuator, fixed free, no hassle. The dealer here made a mistake on our state inspection month because we did it early, and then ARGUED with me saying my inspection expires in August, which is why it now has an 8 month (why do I have pics of the car with 9's on the windshield, and why do you have service records of us coming in in September for inspections, AND YOU SOLD US THE VEHICLE IN SEP 2011!!). Different cust svc mentality.
Last edited by Johnhav430; 08-25-18 at 06:48 AM.
#22
As for what to get. ES350 is probably your least risky and most cost effective model. Maintenance will be less than a 430. I would say look at a new Camry as well.
#23
Not trying to spark a moral debate here. But why would you want to buy an expensive used car if you are trying to pay off some "serious" debt? Your better off just keeping the 6 series if you have it all paid off
As for what to get. ES350 is probably your least risky and most cost effective model. Maintenance will be less than a 430. I would say look at a new Camry as well.
As for what to get. ES350 is probably your least risky and most cost effective model. Maintenance will be less than a 430. I would say look at a new Camry as well.
I know that Scotty Kilmer is very anti V8 Lexus, and just like his 94 celica, the only Lexus anyone should get is the ES.
I am speaking from experience, I bought a LS430 with 81k, 22 mos. ago. Nothing at all broke, except two parking sensors. I don't service my car at the dealer (although I did a brake flush and coolant drain/fill at Lexus). I did do the timing belt proactively at 86k and paid an indie almost $900 (Lexus gets $1,800). As far as the high costs to operate this car, I just don't see it. And I've driven 27k thus far. There are folks like me on the 3rd gen forum who have gone over 100k and really put not much into their cars.
#24
I do agree with keeping the 650, not just because it's a manual V8, but it makes sense a lot of times, to avoid "transition" costs. You buy a car, you lose, not the seller. It's an inefficient transaction, it's not like eBay where you generally buy things at a fair price overall, if you are diligent. If you are diligent in buying a car, you lose far less, than if you threw caution to the wind.
I know that Scotty Kilmer is very anti V8 Lexus, and just like his 94 celica, the only Lexus anyone should get is the ES.
I am speaking from experience, I bought a LS430 with 81k, 22 mos. ago. Nothing at all broke, except two parking sensors. I don't service my car at the dealer (although I did a brake flush and coolant drain/fill at Lexus). I did do the timing belt proactively at 86k and paid an indie almost $900 (Lexus gets $1,800). As far as the high costs to operate this car, I just don't see it. And I've driven 27k thus far. There are folks like me on the 3rd gen forum who have gone over 100k and really put not much into their cars.
I know that Scotty Kilmer is very anti V8 Lexus, and just like his 94 celica, the only Lexus anyone should get is the ES.
I am speaking from experience, I bought a LS430 with 81k, 22 mos. ago. Nothing at all broke, except two parking sensors. I don't service my car at the dealer (although I did a brake flush and coolant drain/fill at Lexus). I did do the timing belt proactively at 86k and paid an indie almost $900 (Lexus gets $1,800). As far as the high costs to operate this car, I just don't see it. And I've driven 27k thus far. There are folks like me on the 3rd gen forum who have gone over 100k and really put not much into their cars.
#25
Have to admit that is the oddest thing, the 7/90 on the timing belt. I have never owned a vehicle with one until the LS430. Not the end of the world, and it is what it is...but that Scotty Kilmer way of looking at things isn't for me (so boring and one-sided and sometimes flat out wrong--can't drive a BMW,Mercedes, Porsche, Nissan, Subaru, Honda, Toyota V8, it's like all roads lead back to the 94 Celica and Lexus ES. I like ChrisFix better
#27
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