lilativan

Hi ya'll,

My name is Rob and I'm new to Club Lexus. I wasn't quite sure where to post this, so hopefully this is the right place.

I've had a 2004 IS300 for about a year and it has 137k miles on it. All stock. Great condition minus a small tear in the perorated leather driver seat. I live in a town with lots of potholes and perpetual stop and go traffic, so having this car no longer makes sense to me. On top of that, I hit a few potholes over the year and it ended up throwing out my entire suspension, bending a rim, and something else and it ending up costing something like $1,200 to fix. And a week ago, I hit a curb going about 5mph and it damaged the suspension again, costing $800. I'm over it. It's fun to drive but I just wanna cruise and want a car that isn't as low to the ground.

When I got the IS I was torn between that and an ES and now I am dead set on selling the IS and getting an ES. I love how durable the Lexus engines are and I like the look of the older models (not a big fan of new cars.) What generation should I be looking at? I really like the boxy look of the 2nd generation, but it might be nice to get something slightly newer? I want something that'll last for a long time for under $6k. So yeah, I'm not really sure. What do you guys think? What's your favorite generation and why? Looking for a compromise between looks, the way it drives, and interior. Like I said, I LOVE the boxy look of the 2nd generation but in the long run it might be better to get something a bit newer like early 2000s?

Oh and if anyone is interested in buying my IS, feel free to send me a message. I live in Portland and the car is in great condition and my mechanic is top notch.

Thanks!
-Rob

mmarshall

Welcome to CL, Rob. Glad to have you.

To sell a vehicle, we have sub-forums for that (by model), but there are some restrictions......

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/mar...-sale-301.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/market/parts/1998-2005?&makeid%5b0%5d=75&seriesid%5b0%5d=s21

It's fine, though, to post your other questions here in Car Chat, where we discuss any and all vehicles 24/7, around the clock.

First, you say your IS is in "great" condition, but then mention a number of pothole-induced problems. Have all those problems been fully repaired?

Second, for a used ES, I've always liked the 4th-generation (2001-2006) ES300/330, which I felt had the best interior, the best wood trim, the best riding comfort, and, overall, was the most pleasant of any ES version to drive. Later versions, IMO, started implementing cost-cutting and stiffer-riding, lower-profile tires....though some of the interior trim-cheapening was rectified for the mid-cycle 2010 model year. But the 4Gen was not perfect...the big teardrop-shaped sweep-back headlight housings tend to get cloudy and dull up, and the 5-speed automatic had some occasional glitches in how it (and the throttle-by wire system) integrated, which could sometimes cause problems with low-speed throttle response. There was a factory reprogramming for the control-unit, but results with owners seemed mixed.

Last, if you had pothole problems with the IS, you are also (likely) going to have them with an ES....perhaps even more so, since RWD vehicles are often easier to do suspension repairs on than FWD. Might want to consider a GX instead.....its tough, truck-based frame and suspension is much more forgiving of that kind of abuse.

lilativan

Thanks for the info!

Maybe I'll look to test drive some 4th generations first. I like the way the 2nd generations look the best, but that isn't going to matter much when I'm in the car. Yeah the IS300 is fine, the problems were 100% fixed both times. The GX is a good idea but I'm not into SUVs at all. Maybe I just need to expand my insurance to cover these like this as this is likely to happen again. Still set on an ES 300 though.

lilativan

Wow that's a great idea. I'll look into it! Also am I crazy for going through the hassle of selling my car and buying a different one? The difference between the IS and ES is substantial enough to warrant it, right? I'm gonna rack up so many speeding tickets in the IS and that's another reason it needs to go I only posted that second emoji beause it's sort of terrifying. Am I allowed to post a link here to the car I'm checking out Monday? I'm bringing a mechanic but I feel like the price might be too high. It's a black '03 ES 300 with black interior and looks to be in super good shape with 139k miles. Asking price is $6,500 from a dealership. There's an '02 in super good condition with an asking price of $5,000 but it has 173k miles. Is a difference of 34k miles worth the extra money?

I got my '04 IS 300 back and everything is fixed and perfect. They checked everything out since they were already working on it and everything is solid. It's a grey '04 with black perforated leather interior with stock everything. There is one tiny tear in the driver's seat and one tiny tear in rear right seat. 137k miles. Do you think it'll be possible to sell this car/buy that '03 without paying a lot out of pocket?

mmarshall

Sure. Plenty of Car Chat members have posted a picture (and specs) of something they are interested in looking at and asked our opinion of it. Of course, there is only so much we can say (or advise) without actually being there to look at it. It's also VERY important to try and determine, as much as possible, whether it is a vehicle that is being unscrupulously advertised after being in a major flood (particularly with salt water) that could have damaged electronics, carpeting, insulation, or other things. As I understand it, it's now a Federal offense (beside many state offenses) to do so, but that doesn't stop some bozos from trying.

lilativan

Oh man, that sucks. I'll watch out for that.

Here's the one I'm looking at https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/...750632135.html
And here's the one with 179k miles https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/...760845024.html

mmarshall

CarFax reports are generally a good help, but not foolproof. Chances are, though, that you'll be OK.

mmarshall

Both look pretty good on the surface, especially that black-interior one....but they have obviously been detailed professionally. If and when you test-drive them, look for the usual things......shimmies in the steering wheel at highway speeds (usually wheel/tire balance and/or out-of-roundness) , pulsating brake pedal (usually warped or out-of-round brake rotors), and tendency to pull left or right on a level surface (wheels out-of-alignment, or frame/undercarriage damage from an accident). Also, on the test-drive, do some low-speed manipulation and acceleration with the throttle, both from a stop and from a very low speed, and see if the transmission shifts smoothly and precisely. These cars were generally reliable, but one known issue was programming in the engine/transmisison control-unit that allowed some quirky (or lagged) responses at ow speeds. The factory supposedly had a reprogramming, but that did not aways address it. For flood damage, check under carpets (if possible) for mildew/odors, inside the trunk /under the floor, and inside the engine compartment for any signs of corrosion or damage to electrical fittings. Also, on a car that old, even if it has not been flooded, you are still likely to have some deterioration of rubber parts (engine hoses, weatherstripping around windows, rubber/vinyl trim pieces, etc.... so check whatever of those are visible. And good luck.

.....Oh, and one other thing I forgot to add. On ES300 models, wth the 3.0L V6, it is also very important to document the vehicle's service, particularly regular oil-changes. That engine was NOT forgiving of negligence or extended-length on the oil changes, and gelling of the oil, engine damage, end even engine replacements were common. A competent shop (or owner), though, should have the necessary documentation....if he or she doesn't, might want to think twice.

lilativan

Thanks for the info! I have a mobile mechanic meeting me out there to do an inspection so he should know what to look for (I hope). That info about the engine is pretty concerning. The odds of them having documentation of all its oil changes since the day it left the lot are super super low, right? I know the guy I bought my IS 300 off babied the hell out of it and only gave it premium gas and synthetic oil changes (what I do also). But it's not something he was able to prove. He had documentation of the most recent oil change but that was it. The dealership I'm going to has super good reviews but I guess that doesn't necessarily mean anything. I also feel like $6,500 might be steep (is it?) so maybe it's worth calling them up beforehand and telling them i can only do like $5,500-$5,700 before dropping the coin on the inspection? Hmm

Also the car with 179k is out of the question. I know Lexuses can run to 300,000 but still, I really wanna keep it under 140,000.

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

mmarshall

The IS300 had a totally different (and more durable) straight-six 3.0L engine than the ES300's V6. I owned a yellow IS300, BTW, for almost five years.

I've seen actual Toyota dealerships put used 4-Runners on the market with 175K on them....with at least a 90-day warranty from the dealership itself. Mileage alone does not necessarily mean something is ready to die....especially with good vehicle care. But I agree with you, newer an/or lower-mileage is usually the way to go.

lilativan

So I checked out the car and it drives beautifully. From the Carfax, everything looks solid. At 117k the water pump was replaced but there was no mention of the timing belt being replaced (it was) so I called the shop that worked on this car. The mechanic I spoke to said he was the one that worked on this car and he remembers it well because he actually wanted to buy it. He said it's in great shape. There have been two owners and apparently the only reason the second owner sold it was because she makes really good money and just decided she wanted a brand new one.

I took it to the mechanic I've been going to for about a year to have an inspection. Well actually I've been to him four times. I ****ed my suspension up super bad all three times I hit potholes. That and an oil change. Anyway, he said overall it's in great shape but there are a few issues.

1) Driver's window regulator loud and slow. Likely failing - $776.32
2) Valve cover gaskets are leaking - $502.04
3) Transmission fluid service needed. Burnt fluid - $314.00

I had a feeling this might be ridiculously expensive because when I got the car, the front seats were torn to pieces and I had to to replace them but the seats I bought are 2002 and needed to be like wired differently or something for them to work in my 2004. They quoted me $350-400 to install them and my friend did it flawlessly for $75.

I drove the car back to the lot with the salesman and told him I needed them to knock $1500 off the price or I'd need to think about it. They swore up and down that my mechanic is full of **** and ripping me off. They also said you're not supposed to do a transmission flush on older cars (this one has 139k).

I called a friend of mine who has been working on cars for 10 years or so (professional detailer by trade), and he sent me links to the parts and basically he can do it all for under $500. The guys at the lot said they have a mechanic they work with and they'll pay for the repairs as long as he does them.

So I'm not really sure what to do. I really want it but are the valve cover gaskets and transmission fluid service a huge deal?

According to the service history, the car's fluids were on 7/14/2018. The auto shop that worked on this car from 4/14/2017 has 5/5 stars on Google reviews (94 reviews) and 4.5/5 on Yelp (48 reviews.)

My friend made a good point about my mechanic's diagnosis and that point is that the mechanic is my friend. His shop has a ton of overhead and he's trying to make money. Plain and simple.

The lot selling this car has 4.5/5 stars on Google reviews and 4/5 on Yelp.

I REALLY like the car. That has to be the smoothest ride I've ever experienced. What to do? I'm bringing my friend with me tomorrow to look at but figured I'd ask here as well. The salesman I dealt with was really nice (obviously) but there something about him.. I don't know.

Again, this is the car in question: https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/...761481570.html

I'm like totally ready to pull the trigger and put my IS on craigslist.

Vitveet

Bro, you're looking at buying a $5k, 17 year old vehicle.....can't be but so picky and choosey. You're doing way too much, being way too paranoid, etc etc for this . I say buy bt or not. You've done your research so by now, it seems like you're trying to talk yourself into it or out of it . Asking us won't help.....ok, if it will, I say get it..........
And personally, I think you're downgrading in vehicles. I have an 02 IS300 5sp. I bought in 06 with 50k miles on it. It now has 220k miles on it. SUPER reliable....only "major" repairs were a new clutch around 130k and new manifolds (headers) around 200k. Both repairs under 4 figures each, so nothing I minded paying. Drives strong, like the day I bought it. Nothing wrong with the ES, but if you're gunna upgrade, UPGRADE.

V.

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

yeah, he's a used car salesman.

not a fan of that 'red' wood, but if it works for you, go for it, the car looks great.

ArmyofOne

I would do it. No, you aren't supposed to FLUSH a transmission with burnt fluid. Simply drain it, drop the pain, change the filter, refill it and drive it.