Any way to identify 0W-20 synthetic?
#16
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I usually use my local Lexus or Toyota dealership to change my oil which I trust both. I take my 5 or 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and the Toyota oil filter bought on line to them and they charge me $25 labor. I do this for two reasons. First I buy the oil at Walmart when twice a year when Mobil runs a $12 rebate on the five quart jug which is usually around $24. The other reason is that my local Lexus Service manager told me if you come in to buy oil they sell you Toyota synthetic oil made by Mobil. For oil changes they use drums and a brand he told me which I can not remember but is not a major brand like Pennzoil, Castro, Mobil etc. If going to an independent shop, I would take the 5 quart jug and ask them for the empty jug back. I usually say I have oil in a pan at home that I need to dispose of.
#17
Lead Lap
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I heard you can taste the oil to tell the difference.
Jokes of course.
Last i remember, anything Xw20 has to be synthetic, but not sure.
Jokes of course.
Last i remember, anything Xw20 has to be synthetic, but not sure.
#18
Lexus Champion
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Thanks to all.
Just so happened that Costco today is starting a $10 discount on Mobil1 0w-20, a 6-pack is now $28. I bought a couple of cases after looking at a YouTube video. Changing oil and filter is just as simple as with my old Vette so I'll just do it myself and save the more-serious service for a shop.
I don't understand why Toyota uses a cartridge-type filter instead of a can. For light aircraft it's useful to cut open the can to see if the engine is throwing metal, but I doubt that's an issue with automotive engines.
Just so happened that Costco today is starting a $10 discount on Mobil1 0w-20, a 6-pack is now $28. I bought a couple of cases after looking at a YouTube video. Changing oil and filter is just as simple as with my old Vette so I'll just do it myself and save the more-serious service for a shop.
I don't understand why Toyota uses a cartridge-type filter instead of a can. For light aircraft it's useful to cut open the can to see if the engine is throwing metal, but I doubt that's an issue with automotive engines.
#19
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I'm not so sure that long change-intervals are even better for the environment. An engine that is polluting because the rings and valves are worn from neglected oil-changes is not doing the environment any good (the catalyst, of course, can only handle so much).
#20
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Then they could just recommend 0W30 which would provide the same cold weather start protection but also a little more protection in hot climates/if engines get hotter. The main reason most manufactures went with 20 weight when often the same engine was rated for 30 just a couple years before was to eek out slightly better fuel economy.
#21
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I am supposed to use 0W 20, but I thought I would try 0W 30 for greater full throttle smoothness on my 3.5, but every time I tried to purchase 0W 30, they said it was only recommended for diesels.
Is this true?
Can I just use 0W 30 anyway?
Is this true?
Can I just use 0W 30 anyway?
#22
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The use of low-viscosity oils today is not just a matter of fuel-economy, or or getting the oil circulating more quickly through the engine on a cold start, although, of course, those are important issues. But the main factor has been that today's engines, with their extremely fine machining-tolerances, especially when they are new without any wear, simply cannot tolerate thick oil...it won't flow freely through extremely small passages. That's why the so-called "High-Mileage" oil that is sold for old or worn engines is often of a high viscosity (10W-40 or 20W-50) that will help seal up worn clearances and cut down on actual oil-use. But high-viscosity oil will also make the engine more difficult to start in very cold temperatures.
#23
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There is not that much difference between 0W 20 and 0W 30, I doubt you would notice any real difference at all, because the 30 weight is thicker at operating temps it offers a little more protection at higher temps, the engine may be a little quieter, you may get slightly worse fuel economy, it would be totally safe to run in your car.
If you can find Castrol 0W 30, it is actually a real Group 4 full synthetic as it is made in Germany/Europe and they have different/stricter standards then the US but you can only get it in single quarts so it is more expensive then a 5 quart jug but it would be superior to a US made 0W 20 which in most cases is really a more refined semi synthetic. It is one of the few Group 4 full synthetics you can find at regular auto parts stores. Some people say the 0W 30 Castrol oil is fairly thick for a 30 weight.
#24
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The simple fact is that if you want it easy, just pour in whatever the manual says. However if you want to play around/personalize your oil use then theres alot of things out there in the oil market that you can work with depending on your requirements.
ZDDP was the thing folks were going on T6 before the formula changed and were used in turbo STIs to plain jane 5w30 vehicles (supposedly a very thin 40 so borderline 30).
In regards to the 0w30, cant see it useful if its expensive, since most environments wont have temperatures that would exceed 20's outer limits.
#25
Lexus Fanatic
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Thats crazy. You absolutely could use 0W30. Doubt you would notice a difference.
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kaotiq
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12-13-07 08:18 AM