Well, its the end of an era....traded my LS460L in on a Mercedes S560
#271
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (3)
Hey, you're paying somebody a not small amount of money to do that for you! lol. You like yours too!
I like detailing, I actually had a small detailing business while I was in college. I really only do that to a new car, and only to my car not my wife's. I do like cleaning cars and keeping them clean though. What I like though is chemicals and coatings and waxes and stuff like that. I hate washing cars and I hate polishing paint.
And a LOT of research went into what products to use too. The actual work took me about 7 total hours. An hour for the wash, decon and clay, 2 hours last night for the CSL, and 4 hours today for the EXO. Once yours is done you will really like the ceramic coating, it keeps the car much cleaner, water just rolls off of it. When its slick its much harder to swirl and mar like what happened to you. I did a similar regimen to the 17 LS when I got it and 45k miles later it looked pretty much perfect despite being tunnel washed once a week for 3 years.
I like detailing, I actually had a small detailing business while I was in college. I really only do that to a new car, and only to my car not my wife's. I do like cleaning cars and keeping them clean though. What I like though is chemicals and coatings and waxes and stuff like that. I hate washing cars and I hate polishing paint.
And a LOT of research went into what products to use too. The actual work took me about 7 total hours. An hour for the wash, decon and clay, 2 hours last night for the CSL, and 4 hours today for the EXO. Once yours is done you will really like the ceramic coating, it keeps the car much cleaner, water just rolls off of it. When its slick its much harder to swirl and mar like what happened to you. I did a similar regimen to the 17 LS when I got it and 45k miles later it looked pretty much perfect despite being tunnel washed once a week for 3 years.
#272
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Ceramic coating hydrophobicity:
#273
Pole Position
For sure!
I didnt do any serious paint correction. The paint is pretty good, there were a couple little areas I did polish out but not the whole car. This being my first german car in many many years the paint is HARD. The paint on a Lexus is really soft, its easy to rub pretty much anything out by hand with a hand polish/scratch remover. Not on this!
It had a lot of imbedded paint contaminants and iron spots having sat on the lot all that time, so it needed fallout remover and clay.
First I washed it, then I sprayed it down with CarPro Iron X for chemical decontamination/fallout removal:
https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-R...6-8a5c26cd5a14
Then I clayed it using a synthetic clay pad and carwash soap:
https://www.amazon.com/JIANFA-AutoSc...motive&sr=1-25
That left me a good, smooth clean surface. After that I let them install the clear bra.
Once I got it home, I wiped it all down with a panel prep, I used CarPro Eraser to get all the oils out of the paint:
https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Eraser...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Then it was time to do the ceramic coating. I chose Gtechniq's Crystal Serum Light topped by two coats of EXO. The CSL is as serious a coating as is available to a non-professional. I had used 22ple on the LS460L and this is much harder and thicker. Goes on and comes off easy though:
For CSL the 30mL bottle is enough to do the whole car, wheels and the windows (I didnt do the windshield, I dont like coatings on the windshield) on this car, and probably even an SUV because you only do 1 coat. I have about 1/3rd of the bottle left. I'm going to do the wood trim with it eventually.:
https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-Crys...e%2C144&sr=1-3
The CSL has got great chemical resistance and hardness, but it doesn't have great hydrophobic properties, thats where the EXO topper comes in. This you do 2 coats of on top, and this I would get the 50mL bottle for a car of this size. I had the 30, and I got 2 coats on the whole body but only one on the glass and didnt have enough left over for the wheels (no big deal they have CSL). 50 mL would have given me plenty with no anxiety:
https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-EXO-...omotive&sr=1-4
My cars get run through a carwash, especially in the winter. I'm going to use gtechniq's QD after the carwash and their C2V3 Spray Coating to replenish the coating from time to time since the carwash is hard on it:
QD (this does not come with a sprayer, which is a PITA:
https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-Quic...omotive&sr=1-2
Sprayer:
https://www.amazon.com/Sprayer-Repla...dDbGljaz10cnVl
C2V3:
https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-C2v3...7128733&sr=8-3
I didnt do any serious paint correction. The paint is pretty good, there were a couple little areas I did polish out but not the whole car. This being my first german car in many many years the paint is HARD. The paint on a Lexus is really soft, its easy to rub pretty much anything out by hand with a hand polish/scratch remover. Not on this!
It had a lot of imbedded paint contaminants and iron spots having sat on the lot all that time, so it needed fallout remover and clay.
First I washed it, then I sprayed it down with CarPro Iron X for chemical decontamination/fallout removal:
https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-R...6-8a5c26cd5a14
Then I clayed it using a synthetic clay pad and carwash soap:
https://www.amazon.com/JIANFA-AutoSc...motive&sr=1-25
That left me a good, smooth clean surface. After that I let them install the clear bra.
Once I got it home, I wiped it all down with a panel prep, I used CarPro Eraser to get all the oils out of the paint:
https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Eraser...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Then it was time to do the ceramic coating. I chose Gtechniq's Crystal Serum Light topped by two coats of EXO. The CSL is as serious a coating as is available to a non-professional. I had used 22ple on the LS460L and this is much harder and thicker. Goes on and comes off easy though:
For CSL the 30mL bottle is enough to do the whole car, wheels and the windows (I didnt do the windshield, I dont like coatings on the windshield) on this car, and probably even an SUV because you only do 1 coat. I have about 1/3rd of the bottle left. I'm going to do the wood trim with it eventually.:
https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-Crys...e%2C144&sr=1-3
The CSL has got great chemical resistance and hardness, but it doesn't have great hydrophobic properties, thats where the EXO topper comes in. This you do 2 coats of on top, and this I would get the 50mL bottle for a car of this size. I had the 30, and I got 2 coats on the whole body but only one on the glass and didnt have enough left over for the wheels (no big deal they have CSL). 50 mL would have given me plenty with no anxiety:
https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-EXO-...omotive&sr=1-4
My cars get run through a carwash, especially in the winter. I'm going to use gtechniq's QD after the carwash and their C2V3 Spray Coating to replenish the coating from time to time since the carwash is hard on it:
QD (this does not come with a sprayer, which is a PITA:
https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-Quic...omotive&sr=1-2
Sprayer:
https://www.amazon.com/Sprayer-Repla...dDbGljaz10cnVl
C2V3:
https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-C2v3...7128733&sr=8-3
After some maintenance service, a leather rewrap of the car seats and some other minor mods to my GS450h,I'm planning to have a mobile detailer come over to my car where it's under a covered car-park and have him paint correct with a machine polisher and prep my car surfaces before I hand him my ceramic coating for application.
Should I have any instructions to the mobile detailer or keep any thing in mind when engaging a professional detailer to prep and apply my ceramic coating?
I've tried different windshield coatings, what I don't like about them is how they make the wipers leave a smear when they wipe instead of wiping clear. I love it on all the other windows. I love the ceramic coating.
Ceramic coating hydrophobicity:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0R4e4gAycI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HK3XNS0to70
Ceramic coating hydrophobicity:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0R4e4gAycI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HK3XNS0to70
#274
Lexus Fanatic
Originally Posted by SW17LS
I've tried different windshield coatings, what I don't like about them is how they make the wipers leave a smear when they wipe instead of wiping clear.
That was one of the few automotive disagreements I had with my brother, as we are normally very close, at least on automotive matters. He liked the heavily-advertised Rain-X coating for the windshield, and always claimed that with it, raindrops just slid right off the glass without a wiper blade at all. As far as I am concerned, that was bull****....I wasn't impressed with it when I tried it on a couple of my vehicles, and as you note, smeared the glass when I did turn on the wipers. And even he got to the point where he stopped using it.
Also, if these windshield-coatings were that effective, automakers would probably use them at the factory, when the vehicle is built..as far as I can tell, most of them don't.
Last edited by mmarshall; 12-04-20 at 10:44 PM.
#275
Lexus Fanatic
I am pretty sure Mercedes would have offered something similar
Last edited by Toys4RJill; 12-05-20 at 06:23 AM.
#276
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
So as most here know, full disclosure, i have NO interest in doing my own detailing.
i therefore have little understanding of it.
what exactly is 'paint correction'? As i understand it there's a clearcoat layer on top of the paint, so how is it possible to 'correct' the paint without destroying the clear coat?
Decided to look up one definition:
So by that definition it's not 'paint' correction at all, it's just making the surface smooth.
Sw17LS wrote:
How is it possible to remove 'iron spots' and 'contaminants' in paint when that's under the clear coat?
Its great you take such pride in your car's appearance but i'm amazed you'd go to all that trouble and expense on a car that's leased. But whomever buys your 3 year old lease is certainly a lucky person!
i therefore have little understanding of it.
what exactly is 'paint correction'? As i understand it there's a clearcoat layer on top of the paint, so how is it possible to 'correct' the paint without destroying the clear coat?
Decided to look up one definition:
Paint correction actually removes any swirls, blemishes, or scratches on the paintwork to create a mirror-like shine. It involves delicately buffing away the fine topmost layer of clear coat on a vehicle's paintwork, leaving it flawless.
So by that definition it's not 'paint' correction at all, it's just making the surface smooth.
Sw17LS wrote:
It had a lot of imbedded paint contaminants and iron spots having sat on the lot all that time, so it needed fallout remover and clay.
How is it possible to remove 'iron spots' and 'contaminants' in paint when that's under the clear coat?
Its great you take such pride in your car's appearance but i'm amazed you'd go to all that trouble and expense on a car that's leased. But whomever buys your 3 year old lease is certainly a lucky person!
#278
Forum Administrator
iTrader: (2)
Clear coat IS paint, just without the pigment.
the iron isn’t under the clear coat, its on top or imbedded in the top layers of the clear (well unless you have a really bad paint job that was contaminated during spray). On new cars a lot of the time it’s from rail dust which is real rusty crap.
the iron isn’t under the clear coat, its on top or imbedded in the top layers of the clear (well unless you have a really bad paint job that was contaminated during spray). On new cars a lot of the time it’s from rail dust which is real rusty crap.
Last edited by DaveGS4; 12-05-20 at 08:23 AM.
#280
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
I can see you are really quite experienced with ceramic coatings. I just jumped on the CL Black Friday Discount for the Avalon King Armor Shield IX ceramic coating, ordered 3 X 30ml application sets and I'm currently waiting for them to be shipped to Singapore.
After some maintenance service, a leather rewrap of the car seats and some other minor mods to my GS450h,I'm planning to have a mobile detailer come over to my car where it's under a covered car-park and have him paint correct with a machine polisher and prep my car surfaces before I hand him my ceramic coating for application.
Should I have any instructions to the mobile detailer or keep any thing in mind when engaging a professional detailer to prep and apply my ceramic coating?
After some maintenance service, a leather rewrap of the car seats and some other minor mods to my GS450h,I'm planning to have a mobile detailer come over to my car where it's under a covered car-park and have him paint correct with a machine polisher and prep my car surfaces before I hand him my ceramic coating for application.
Should I have any instructions to the mobile detailer or keep any thing in mind when engaging a professional detailer to prep and apply my ceramic coating?
That is a good point about smearing of the windshield. I was planning to coat my windshield in addition to other surfaces like headlights/foglights,emblems,mirrors,wheels, calipers,plastic trim but avoiding rubber and parking sensors. Now I think I'll probably skip the windscreen after your feedback.
Absolutely. Windshield coatings can be a PITA. Experience taught me, long ago, that the best way to keep a clear wipe, without streaks/film, is to keep the glass as clean as possible, free from coatings (and especially from road salt-splash), and to change wiper blades regularly. In this area, with all of the ozone and pollution in the air, once a year for wiper blades is a good bet, since the ozone breaks down the rubber compound in the blades. Tires, of course can go longer, because they are usually not pure rubber, but have special compounds and silicates injected into them for longevity.
Also, if these windshield-coatings were that effective, automakers would probably use them at the factory, when the vehicle is built..as far as I can tell, most of them don't.
Toyota used to have a repellent on the side windows. Its called titanium silica glazing. My 04 4Runner has this feature from the factory and most of the higher price point Lexus/Toyota models from the late 90's early 00's have it......my mirrors have it too....I think only Made In Japan models offered it. The jury is out on the windshield, some say there are some models that have it...some say it was not offered. Its called titanium silica glazing I do not think it is offered anymore as I am not sure if my 21 4Runner has it
I am pretty sure Mercedes would have offered something similar
I am pretty sure Mercedes would have offered something similar
So as most here know, full disclosure, i have NO interest in doing my own detailing.
i therefore have little understanding of it.
what exactly is 'paint correction'? As i understand it there's a clearcoat layer on top of the paint, so how is it possible to 'correct' the paint without destroying the clear coat?
Decided to look up one definition:
So by that definition it's not 'paint' correction at all, it's just making the surface smooth.
i therefore have little understanding of it.
what exactly is 'paint correction'? As i understand it there's a clearcoat layer on top of the paint, so how is it possible to 'correct' the paint without destroying the clear coat?
Decided to look up one definition:
So by that definition it's not 'paint' correction at all, it's just making the surface smooth.
How is it possible to remove 'iron spots' and 'contaminants' in paint when that's under the clear coat?
Its great you take such pride in your car's appearance but i'm amazed you'd go to all that trouble and expense on a car that's leased. But whomever buys your 3 year old lease is certainly a lucky person!
Clear coat IS paint, just without the pigment.
the iron isn’t under the clear coat, its on top or imbedded in the top layers of the clear (well unless you have a really bad paint job that was contaminated during spray). On new cars a lot of the time it’s from rail dust which is real rusty crap.
the iron isn’t under the clear coat, its on top or imbedded in the top layers of the clear (well unless you have a really bad paint job that was contaminated during spray). On new cars a lot of the time it’s from rail dust which is real rusty crap.
#281
Racer
iTrader: (5)
Very interesting stuff, thanks for posting your process SW17LS.
Not BS at all. Sometimes, after a car wash, I use a quick detailer as a drying aid on the whole car, including the front windshield. The detailer leaves behind a very, very thin layer of protection that increases surface tension. Water will naturally bead up on glass with no coating, but that increased surface tension makes the water roll off the car much easier (similar to way water behaves when it's poured onto a freshly waxed/sealed body panel). Depending on the speed the car is traveling at (and to a lesser degree, the angle of the windshield) there may actually be no need to use your wipers. For example, water beads start to roll off my windshield when I get to speeds like 70-80 km/hr without the coating left by the quick detailer. With the coating, water starts rolling off before the car hits 50 km/hr. To be fair, some coatings are terrible and will streak like crazy. Luckily the QD I use only leaves a very faint outline around the wiper's path (no streaking, skips, or judder, and it wipes clean with a microfiber).
RE: wipers, I haven't had to change my wipers in nearly 3 years so far, but if possible, I'd suggest changing out the rubber inserts instead of the whole blade. I bought a pair of front windshield wiper inserts from my dealership a year ago just to have them on hand, and if I recall correctly, both inserts were around $16 CAD total.
Absolutely. Windshield coatings can be a PITA. Experience taught me, long ago, that the best way to keep a clear wipe, without streaks/film, is to keep the glass as clean as possible, free from coatings (and especially from road salt-splash), and to change wiper blades regularly. In this area, with all of the ozone and pollution in the air, once a year for wiper blades is a good bet, since the ozone breaks down the rubber compound in the blades. Tires, of course can go longer, because they are usually not pure rubber, but have special compounds and silicates injected into them for longevity.
That was one of the few automotive disagreements I had with my brother, as we are normally very close, at least on automotive matters. He liked the heavily-advertised Rain-X coating for the windshield, and always claimed that with it, raindrops just slid right off the glass without a wiper blade at all. As far as I am concerned, that was bull****....I wasn't impressed with it when I tried it on a couple of my vehicles, and as you note, smeared the glass when I did turn on the wipers. And even he got to the point where he stopped using it.
Also, if these windshield-coatings were that effective, automakers would probably use them at the factory, when the vehicle is built..as far as I can tell, most of them don't.
That was one of the few automotive disagreements I had with my brother, as we are normally very close, at least on automotive matters. He liked the heavily-advertised Rain-X coating for the windshield, and always claimed that with it, raindrops just slid right off the glass without a wiper blade at all. As far as I am concerned, that was bull****....I wasn't impressed with it when I tried it on a couple of my vehicles, and as you note, smeared the glass when I did turn on the wipers. And even he got to the point where he stopped using it.
Also, if these windshield-coatings were that effective, automakers would probably use them at the factory, when the vehicle is built..as far as I can tell, most of them don't.
RE: wipers, I haven't had to change my wipers in nearly 3 years so far, but if possible, I'd suggest changing out the rubber inserts instead of the whole blade. I bought a pair of front windshield wiper inserts from my dealership a year ago just to have them on hand, and if I recall correctly, both inserts were around $16 CAD total.
#284
So as most here know, full disclosure, i have NO interest in doing my own detailing.
i therefore have little understanding of it.
what exactly is 'paint correction'? As i understand it there's a clearcoat layer on top of the paint, so how is it possible to 'correct' the paint without destroying the clear coat?
Decided to look up one definition:
So by that definition it's not 'paint' correction at all, it's just making the surface smooth.
Sw17LS wrote:
How is it possible to remove 'iron spots' and 'contaminants' in paint when that's under the clear coat?
Its great you take such pride in your car's appearance but i'm amazed you'd go to all that trouble and expense on a car that's leased. But whomever buys your 3 year old lease is certainly a lucky person!
i therefore have little understanding of it.
what exactly is 'paint correction'? As i understand it there's a clearcoat layer on top of the paint, so how is it possible to 'correct' the paint without destroying the clear coat?
Decided to look up one definition:
So by that definition it's not 'paint' correction at all, it's just making the surface smooth.
Sw17LS wrote:
How is it possible to remove 'iron spots' and 'contaminants' in paint when that's under the clear coat?
Its great you take such pride in your car's appearance but i'm amazed you'd go to all that trouble and expense on a car that's leased. But whomever buys your 3 year old lease is certainly a lucky person!
#285
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
I snapped a few quick shots. Hard to see in pictures but it really does look good: