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Well, its the end of an era....traded my LS460L in on a Mercedes S560

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Old 12-04-20, 05:20 PM
  #271  
Och
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Originally Posted by SW17LS
Hey, you're paying somebody a not small amount of money to do that for you! lol. You like yours too!

I like detailing, I actually had a small detailing business while I was in college. I really only do that to a new car, and only to my car not my wife's. I do like cleaning cars and keeping them clean though. What I like though is chemicals and coatings and waxes and stuff like that. I hate washing cars and I hate polishing paint.

And a LOT of research went into what products to use too. The actual work took me about 7 total hours. An hour for the wash, decon and clay, 2 hours last night for the CSL, and 4 hours today for the EXO. Once yours is done you will really like the ceramic coating, it keeps the car much cleaner, water just rolls off of it. When its slick its much harder to swirl and mar like what happened to you. I did a similar regimen to the 17 LS when I got it and 45k miles later it looked pretty much perfect despite being tunnel washed once a week for 3 years.
Yes, thats what the guy said about ceramic coating too. I will also come back to him to apply it on the windshield - a rock chipped my windshield when I was driving to VA last Thursday. He said once I do that, the rain water will just roll off.
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Old 12-04-20, 05:30 PM
  #272  
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Originally Posted by Och
Yes, thats what the guy said about ceramic coating too. I will also come back to him to apply it on the windshield - a rock chipped my windshield when I was driving to VA last Thursday. He said once I do that, the rain water will just roll off.
I've tried different windshield coatings, what I don't like about them is how they make the wipers leave a smear when they wipe instead of wiping clear. I love it on all the other windows. I love the ceramic coating.

Ceramic coating hydrophobicity:



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Old 12-04-20, 09:46 PM
  #273  
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Originally Posted by SW17LS
For sure!

I didnt do any serious paint correction. The paint is pretty good, there were a couple little areas I did polish out but not the whole car. This being my first german car in many many years the paint is HARD. The paint on a Lexus is really soft, its easy to rub pretty much anything out by hand with a hand polish/scratch remover. Not on this!

It had a lot of imbedded paint contaminants and iron spots having sat on the lot all that time, so it needed fallout remover and clay.

First I washed it, then I sprayed it down with CarPro Iron X for chemical decontamination/fallout removal:

https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-R...6-8a5c26cd5a14

Then I clayed it using a synthetic clay pad and carwash soap:

https://www.amazon.com/JIANFA-AutoSc...motive&sr=1-25

That left me a good, smooth clean surface. After that I let them install the clear bra.

Once I got it home, I wiped it all down with a panel prep, I used CarPro Eraser to get all the oils out of the paint:

https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Eraser...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Then it was time to do the ceramic coating. I chose Gtechniq's Crystal Serum Light topped by two coats of EXO. The CSL is as serious a coating as is available to a non-professional. I had used 22ple on the LS460L and this is much harder and thicker. Goes on and comes off easy though:

For CSL the 30mL bottle is enough to do the whole car, wheels and the windows (I didnt do the windshield, I dont like coatings on the windshield) on this car, and probably even an SUV because you only do 1 coat. I have about 1/3rd of the bottle left. I'm going to do the wood trim with it eventually.:

https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-Crys...e%2C144&sr=1-3

The CSL has got great chemical resistance and hardness, but it doesn't have great hydrophobic properties, thats where the EXO topper comes in. This you do 2 coats of on top, and this I would get the 50mL bottle for a car of this size. I had the 30, and I got 2 coats on the whole body but only one on the glass and didnt have enough left over for the wheels (no big deal they have CSL). 50 mL would have given me plenty with no anxiety:

https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-EXO-...omotive&sr=1-4

My cars get run through a carwash, especially in the winter. I'm going to use gtechniq's QD after the carwash and their C2V3 Spray Coating to replenish the coating from time to time since the carwash is hard on it:

QD (this does not come with a sprayer, which is a PITA:

https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-Quic...omotive&sr=1-2

Sprayer:

https://www.amazon.com/Sprayer-Repla...dDbGljaz10cnVl

C2V3:

https://www.amazon.com/Gtechniq-C2v3...7128733&sr=8-3
I can see you are really quite experienced with ceramic coatings. I just jumped on the CL Black Friday Discount for the Avalon King Armor Shield IX ceramic coating, ordered 3 X 30ml application sets and I'm currently waiting for them to be shipped to Singapore.

After some maintenance service, a leather rewrap of the car seats and some other minor mods to my GS450h,I'm planning to have a mobile detailer come over to my car where it's under a covered car-park and have him paint correct with a machine polisher and prep my car surfaces before I hand him my ceramic coating for application.

Should I have any instructions to the mobile detailer or keep any thing in mind when engaging a professional detailer to prep and apply my ceramic coating?

Originally Posted by SW17LS
I've tried different windshield coatings, what I don't like about them is how they make the wipers leave a smear when they wipe instead of wiping clear. I love it on all the other windows. I love the ceramic coating.

Ceramic coating hydrophobicity:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0R4e4gAycI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HK3XNS0to70
That is a good point about smearing of the windshield. I was planning to coat my windshield in addition to other surfaces like headlights/foglights,emblems,mirrors,wheels, calipers,plastic trim but avoiding rubber and parking sensors. Now I think I'll probably skip the windscreen after your feedback.
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Old 12-04-20, 10:38 PM
  #274  
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Originally Posted by SW17LS
I've tried different windshield coatings, what I don't like about them is how they make the wipers leave a smear when they wipe instead of wiping clear.
Absolutely. Windshield coatings can be a PITA. Experience taught me, long ago, that the best way to keep a clear wipe, without streaks/film, is to keep the glass as clean as possible, free from coatings (and especially from road salt-splash), and to change wiper blades regularly. In this area, with all of the ozone and pollution in the air, once a year for wiper blades is a good bet, since the ozone breaks down the rubber compound in the blades. Tires, of course can go longer, because they are usually not pure rubber, but have special compounds and silicates injected into them for longevity.

That was one of the few automotive disagreements I had with my brother, as we are normally very close, at least on automotive matters. He liked the heavily-advertised Rain-X coating for the windshield, and always claimed that with it, raindrops just slid right off the glass without a wiper blade at all. As far as I am concerned, that was bull****....I wasn't impressed with it when I tried it on a couple of my vehicles, and as you note, smeared the glass when I did turn on the wipers. And even he got to the point where he stopped using it.

Also, if these windshield-coatings were that effective, automakers would probably use them at the factory, when the vehicle is built..as far as I can tell, most of them don't.

Last edited by mmarshall; 12-04-20 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 12-05-20, 06:11 AM
  #275  
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Originally Posted by mmarshall

Also, if these windshield-coatings were that effective, automakers would probably use them at the factory, when the vehicle is built..as far as I can tell, most of them don't.
Toyota used to have a repellent on the side windows. Its called titanium silica glazing. My 04 4Runner has this feature from the factory and most of the higher price point Lexus/Toyota models from the late 90's early 00's have it......my mirrors have it too....I think only Made In Japan models offered it. The jury is out on the windshield, some say there are some models that have it...some say it was not offered. Its called titanium silica glazing I do not think it is offered anymore as I am not sure if my 21 4Runner has it

I am pretty sure Mercedes would have offered something similar


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Old 12-05-20, 07:00 AM
  #276  
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So as most here know, full disclosure, i have NO interest in doing my own detailing.

i therefore have little understanding of it.

what exactly is 'paint correction'? As i understand it there's a clearcoat layer on top of the paint, so how is it possible to 'correct' the paint without destroying the clear coat?

Decided to look up one definition:
Paint correction actually removes any swirls, blemishes, or scratches on the paintwork to create a mirror-like shine. It involves delicately buffing away the fine topmost layer of clear coat on a vehicle's paintwork, leaving it flawless.


So by that definition it's not 'paint' correction at all, it's just making the surface smooth.


Sw17LS wrote:
It had a lot of imbedded paint contaminants and iron spots having sat on the lot all that time, so it needed fallout remover and clay.


How is it possible to remove 'iron spots' and 'contaminants' in paint when that's under the clear coat?

Its great you take such pride in your car's appearance but i'm amazed you'd go to all that trouble and expense on a car that's leased. But whomever buys your 3 year old lease is certainly a lucky person!
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Old 12-05-20, 08:11 AM
  #277  
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@bitkahuna Wall of text information incoming :
Spoiler
 

Last edited by natnut; 12-05-20 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 12-05-20, 08:15 AM
  #278  
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Clear coat IS paint, just without the pigment.

the iron isn’t under the clear coat, its on top or imbedded in the top layers of the clear (well unless you have a really bad paint job that was contaminated during spray). On new cars a lot of the time it’s from rail dust which is real rusty crap.

Last edited by DaveGS4; 12-05-20 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 12-05-20, 08:24 AM
  #279  
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Originally Posted by DaveGS4
Clear coat IS paint, just without the pigment.
Many vehicles, today, actually get two layers of clearcoat at the factory. And that is becoming the standard practice at most credible body shops, too.
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Old 12-05-20, 08:37 AM
  #280  
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Originally Posted by natnut
I can see you are really quite experienced with ceramic coatings. I just jumped on the CL Black Friday Discount for the Avalon King Armor Shield IX ceramic coating, ordered 3 X 30ml application sets and I'm currently waiting for them to be shipped to Singapore.

After some maintenance service, a leather rewrap of the car seats and some other minor mods to my GS450h,I'm planning to have a mobile detailer come over to my car where it's under a covered car-park and have him paint correct with a machine polisher and prep my car surfaces before I hand him my ceramic coating for application.

Should I have any instructions to the mobile detailer or keep any thing in mind when engaging a professional detailer to prep and apply my ceramic coating?
I've heard good things about that coating. your detailer should be able to handle it just fine. The most important thing is having the paint be squeaky clean with no oils or waxes or anything like that before the coating so it bonds properly.

That is a good point about smearing of the windshield. I was planning to coat my windshield in addition to other surfaces like headlights/foglights,emblems,mirrors,wheels, calipers,plastic trim but avoiding rubber and parking sensors. Now I think I'll probably skip the windscreen after your feedback.
Yeah I've tried them, just don't care for them. I've found a really clean windshield has good water runoff anyways and doesnt have the issue with the wipers. I've also found many coatings make the wipers "judder" and skip and I can't stand that.

Originally Posted by mmarshall
Absolutely. Windshield coatings can be a PITA. Experience taught me, long ago, that the best way to keep a clear wipe, without streaks/film, is to keep the glass as clean as possible, free from coatings (and especially from road salt-splash), and to change wiper blades regularly. In this area, with all of the ozone and pollution in the air, once a year for wiper blades is a good bet, since the ozone breaks down the rubber compound in the blades. Tires, of course can go longer, because they are usually not pure rubber, but have special compounds and silicates injected into them for longevity.
Yep thats what I do.

Also, if these windshield-coatings were that effective, automakers would probably use them at the factory, when the vehicle is built..as far as I can tell, most of them don't.
They definitely work, they just have drawbacks that bother me, and don't bother others.

Originally Posted by LexsCTJill
Toyota used to have a repellent on the side windows. Its called titanium silica glazing. My 04 4Runner has this feature from the factory and most of the higher price point Lexus/Toyota models from the late 90's early 00's have it......my mirrors have it too....I think only Made In Japan models offered it. The jury is out on the windshield, some say there are some models that have it...some say it was not offered. Its called titanium silica glazing I do not think it is offered anymore as I am not sure if my 21 4Runner has it

I am pretty sure Mercedes would have offered something similar
I actually HATE that coating on Lexus cars. It makes those front windows really picky about glass cleaners and harder to get smear free when you clean them. The Mercedes doesn't seem to have any such factory coating. I did ceramic coat all the windows but the windshield.

Originally Posted by bitkahuna
So as most here know, full disclosure, i have NO interest in doing my own detailing.

i therefore have little understanding of it.

what exactly is 'paint correction'? As i understand it there's a clearcoat layer on top of the paint, so how is it possible to 'correct' the paint without destroying the clear coat?

Decided to look up one definition:

So by that definition it's not 'paint' correction at all, it's just making the surface smooth.
So correcting the paint means to machine compound it and polish it to remove swirls, scratches and other surface imperfections. Like Dave said the clearcoat is just paint thats clear, the paint correction levels that clearcoat to remove those scratches and surface marring.

How is it possible to remove 'iron spots' and 'contaminants' in paint when that's under the clear coat?
They're on top of the clearcoat. They come from brake dust, rail dust from shipping, etc. Here's a picture of a fallout remover at work, the purple streaks are the remover (which is clear) interacting with and dissolving iron contaminants on the surface of the paint:




Its great you take such pride in your car's appearance but i'm amazed you'd go to all that trouble and expense on a car that's leased. But whomever buys your 3 year old lease is certainly a lucky person!
I enjoy it, but yeah the next owner definately benefits!

Originally Posted by DaveGS4
Clear coat IS paint, just without the pigment.

the iron isn’t under the clear coat, its on top or imbedded in the top layers of the clear (well unless you have a really bad paint job that was contaminated during spray). On new cars a lot of the time it’s from rail dust which is real rusty crap.
Yep, exactly.
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Old 12-05-20, 10:46 AM
  #281  
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Very interesting stuff, thanks for posting your process SW17LS.

Originally Posted by mmarshall
Absolutely. Windshield coatings can be a PITA. Experience taught me, long ago, that the best way to keep a clear wipe, without streaks/film, is to keep the glass as clean as possible, free from coatings (and especially from road salt-splash), and to change wiper blades regularly. In this area, with all of the ozone and pollution in the air, once a year for wiper blades is a good bet, since the ozone breaks down the rubber compound in the blades. Tires, of course can go longer, because they are usually not pure rubber, but have special compounds and silicates injected into them for longevity.

That was one of the few automotive disagreements I had with my brother, as we are normally very close, at least on automotive matters. He liked the heavily-advertised Rain-X coating for the windshield, and always claimed that with it, raindrops just slid right off the glass without a wiper blade at all. As far as I am concerned, that was bull****....I wasn't impressed with it when I tried it on a couple of my vehicles, and as you note, smeared the glass when I did turn on the wipers. And even he got to the point where he stopped using it.

Also, if these windshield-coatings were that effective, automakers would probably use them at the factory, when the vehicle is built..as far as I can tell, most of them don't.
Not BS at all. Sometimes, after a car wash, I use a quick detailer as a drying aid on the whole car, including the front windshield. The detailer leaves behind a very, very thin layer of protection that increases surface tension. Water will naturally bead up on glass with no coating, but that increased surface tension makes the water roll off the car much easier (similar to way water behaves when it's poured onto a freshly waxed/sealed body panel). Depending on the speed the car is traveling at (and to a lesser degree, the angle of the windshield) there may actually be no need to use your wipers. For example, water beads start to roll off my windshield when I get to speeds like 70-80 km/hr without the coating left by the quick detailer. With the coating, water starts rolling off before the car hits 50 km/hr. To be fair, some coatings are terrible and will streak like crazy. Luckily the QD I use only leaves a very faint outline around the wiper's path (no streaking, skips, or judder, and it wipes clean with a microfiber).

RE: wipers, I haven't had to change my wipers in nearly 3 years so far, but if possible, I'd suggest changing out the rubber inserts instead of the whole blade. I bought a pair of front windshield wiper inserts from my dealership a year ago just to have them on hand, and if I recall correctly, both inserts were around $16 CAD total.
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Old 12-05-20, 10:51 AM
  #282  
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I have no complaints with rain x or coatings. Never found them to be a PITA.
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Old 12-05-20, 11:01 AM
  #283  
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Anything at all you miss about the old LS besides the stereo? Anything it did better?
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Old 12-05-20, 12:22 PM
  #284  
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Originally Posted by bitkahuna
So as most here know, full disclosure, i have NO interest in doing my own detailing.

i therefore have little understanding of it.

what exactly is 'paint correction'? As i understand it there's a clearcoat layer on top of the paint, so how is it possible to 'correct' the paint without destroying the clear coat?

Decided to look up one definition:


So by that definition it's not 'paint' correction at all, it's just making the surface smooth.

Sw17LS wrote:


How is it possible to remove 'iron spots' and 'contaminants' in paint when that's under the clear coat?

Its great you take such pride in your car's appearance but i'm amazed you'd go to all that trouble and expense on a car that's leased. But whomever buys your 3 year old lease is certainly a lucky person!
Check out a product called Iron X by CarPro. It's quite amazing. Especially on a white car.
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Old 12-05-20, 01:02 PM
  #285  
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Originally Posted by AJT123
Anything at all you miss about the old LS besides the stereo? Anything it did better?
What I do miss is the LS's stealthiness. This car gets a lot of attention, where the LS blended in better. As for the car itself, not particularly. I'm even getting used to the stereo. i found for some reason Tidal sounds better than AmazonMusicHD and I switched back over.

I snapped a few quick shots. Hard to see in pictures but it really does look good:






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