Gas tank Cleaners, snake oil or something to it?
#16
Why techron is recommended as a cleaner is not only because of its incredible cleaning abilities but how it burns completely in the combustion chamber. Many additives don’t and leave residue on both o2 sensors and the catalytic converters damaging both in time. When there was nothing past the headers good fuel and cleaners didn’t matter quite as much, now it can be critical. Not all fuels are equal and the alcohol added is a whole different story on how it how attracts water and creates many issues.
there are very few other additives besides techron that won’t muck up the sensors and they are both hard to get and often expensive.
as for using it for normal cleaners not sure it’s needed. Using good quality fuel, not letting the fuel tank get empty (running above 1/4 tank) and red lining the engine on occasions is often good enough to keep and engine and the fuel system running good for years.
poor quality fuels don’t have all the additives or detergents designed to keep the finely tuned engines running properly over time 2-300,000 kms. It’s when systems age that the problems start to show. I and a few friends burnt out Mercedes exhaust systems and engines running poor fuel.
there are very few other additives besides techron that won’t muck up the sensors and they are both hard to get and often expensive.
as for using it for normal cleaners not sure it’s needed. Using good quality fuel, not letting the fuel tank get empty (running above 1/4 tank) and red lining the engine on occasions is often good enough to keep and engine and the fuel system running good for years.
poor quality fuels don’t have all the additives or detergents designed to keep the finely tuned engines running properly over time 2-300,000 kms. It’s when systems age that the problems start to show. I and a few friends burnt out Mercedes exhaust systems and engines running poor fuel.
Last edited by winterturb; 12-27-20 at 10:05 AM.
#17
The OP raised what IMO was a legitimate question about fuel-system cleaners. Top-Tier gas brands, in general, is one of the easiest ways to get a fuel system cleaner on a regular basis.
If you consistently use a Top-Tier brand (particularly Shell or Chevron), you probably won't have any fuel-quality-related problems.
Today's engine's computers will advance or retard the timing in response to the knock-sensors, which will usually prevent short-term ill-effects. That is done in case the vehicle is driven out of the U.S. for a while, say, across the border into Mexico, and has to rely on the crap gas sold there for a while. But that is not intended to be a a long-term fix (short periods only), and the longer you don't use recommended fuel grades (or Top-Tier fuels with good detergents), the more risk to your engine in the long run.
One other tip.....I believe I've mentioned it before. If you see a station where a tanker truck if filling up the underground tanks, wait at least five minutes after the tanker is finished pumping, or go to another station. The reason for that is because the high-pressure hoses from the tanker stir up a lot of dirt, crud, and sentiment underground in the tanks, particularly if the tanks are old and have not been cleaned out. It takes a few minutes for the sediment to settle back down again to the bottom of the tank. Fill up too soon after the tanker is done, and, despite filters that are supposed to keep that sediment from entering your own tank (which don't always work), some of that crud could get inside your own tank and plug up fuel lines or injectors.
This is especially critical with aircraft, where part of the official preflight is to check for both dirt and water-bubbles in the fuel...which is done with fuel-samples at special drain-outlets/valves.
If you consistently use a Top-Tier brand (particularly Shell or Chevron), you probably won't have any fuel-quality-related problems.
Today's engine's computers will advance or retard the timing in response to the knock-sensors, which will usually prevent short-term ill-effects. That is done in case the vehicle is driven out of the U.S. for a while, say, across the border into Mexico, and has to rely on the crap gas sold there for a while. But that is not intended to be a a long-term fix (short periods only), and the longer you don't use recommended fuel grades (or Top-Tier fuels with good detergents), the more risk to your engine in the long run.
One other tip.....I believe I've mentioned it before. If you see a station where a tanker truck if filling up the underground tanks, wait at least five minutes after the tanker is finished pumping, or go to another station. The reason for that is because the high-pressure hoses from the tanker stir up a lot of dirt, crud, and sentiment underground in the tanks, particularly if the tanks are old and have not been cleaned out. It takes a few minutes for the sediment to settle back down again to the bottom of the tank. Fill up too soon after the tanker is done, and, despite filters that are supposed to keep that sediment from entering your own tank (which don't always work), some of that crud could get inside your own tank and plug up fuel lines or injectors.
This is especially critical with aircraft, where part of the official preflight is to check for both dirt and water-bubbles in the fuel...which is done with fuel-samples at special drain-outlets/valves.
That's true I used to do alot of that when I worked on the flight line at a FBO & Air National Guard.
#18
Every few months we have another this oil or gas is best...
i've never had any issue with any gas in any car for the decades i've been driving. I've also, one time or another, put premium in cars that supposedly didn't need it, and i've put 87 in cars that supposedly needed premium. Little if any difference ever.
the only concern i'd ever have about gas would be going to a station that appears to be really run down and not used much.
like most of us, i have plenty of gas stations that are modern, busy, with a variety of brands. Racetrak and wawa seem to be duking it out here now building bigger and bigger stations. I've not got gas at a wawa station yet, but their take out food is surprisingly great i can order through their app and it's ready when i arrive. We do of course have shell, marathon, and other brands too. All fine i'm sure.
i've never had any issue with any gas in any car for the decades i've been driving. I've also, one time or another, put premium in cars that supposedly didn't need it, and i've put 87 in cars that supposedly needed premium. Little if any difference ever.
the only concern i'd ever have about gas would be going to a station that appears to be really run down and not used much.
like most of us, i have plenty of gas stations that are modern, busy, with a variety of brands. Racetrak and wawa seem to be duking it out here now building bigger and bigger stations. I've not got gas at a wawa station yet, but their take out food is surprisingly great i can order through their app and it's ready when i arrive. We do of course have shell, marathon, and other brands too. All fine i'm sure.
I don't usually get gas there, tho, because there's a Sam's Club around the corner from me where premium is generally $.60+ cheaper ($.80 cheaper this week). But Wawa coffee and hoagies are great....
Last edited by tex2670; 12-28-20 at 05:33 AM.
#20
so, when i bought the m35i, the tech and service advisor who were going over the features and such after the saleswoman had done her job, told me to use top-tier premium (i use 91 chevron, 91 being the highest we have in california) as well as liqui-moly dijectron as frequently as the bottle requires to try to avoid walnut blasting because they were advised that i had purchased the car and not leased it and so were trying to give me tips to avoid walnut blasting the car in the future. i don't think the b48 engine has a tendency to develop carbon deposits so heavy that walnut blasting is required, but i'm going to use the product here and there because yeah, i am buying the car and i can't decide yet whether i'm going to get rid of the car sooner than the five years it's under warranty or whether i'm going to keep it for that amount of time.
decisions, decisions...
decisions, decisions...
#21
so, when i bought the m35i, the tech and service advisor who were going over the features and such after the saleswoman had done her job, told me to use top-tier premium (i use 91 chevron, 91 being the highest we have in california) as well as liqui-moly dijectron as frequently as the bottle requires to try to avoid walnut blasting because they were advised that i had purchased the car and not leased it and so were trying to give me tips to avoid walnut blasting the car in the future. i don't think the b48 engine has a tendency to develop carbon deposits so heavy that walnut blasting is required, but i'm going to use the product here and there because yeah, i am buying the car and i can't decide yet whether i'm going to get rid of the car sooner than the five years it's under warranty or whether i'm going to keep it for that amount of time.
decisions, decisions...
decisions, decisions...
These deposits can only be cleaned mechanically, with a combination of scrubbing, solvents, and walnut blasting. But at 100k, these engines are pretty much done for anyway.
#22
Fuel additives will do absolutely nothing to stop carbon deposits on the intake valves. And you'll be fine during the first 5 years for sure - as the deposits accumulate the car will start to gradually lose performance and fuel economy, but we are not talking major reduction. Its by the time these engines have about 100k miles where the carbon build up start to cause major issues, where it prevents the valves from fully closing and the engine starts to misfire.
These deposits can only be cleaned mechanically, with a combination of scrubbing, solvents, and walnut blasting. But at 100k, these engines are pretty much done for anyway.
These deposits can only be cleaned mechanically, with a combination of scrubbing, solvents, and walnut blasting. But at 100k, these engines are pretty much done for anyway.
#23
#24
right, if it's direct and port injected then you're unlikely to run into problems, but the vehicle that i own is only direct injected
#25
Toyota/Lexus has had the dual injection (direct+port injected) V6 engines since 2007 which prevents carbon buildup in the port intakes. That's more than a decade. How come the German luxury marques like BMW, who are hyped for being on the cutting edge of engine/powertrain technology, couldn't implement this decades old technology in their engines and thereby improve lifespan and ease maintenance issues of their engines?
#26
Toyota/Lexus has had the dual injection (direct+port injected) V6 engines since 2007 which prevents carbon buildup in the port intakes. That's more than a decade. How come the German luxury marques like BMW, who are hyped for being on the cutting edge of engine/powertrain technology, couldn't implement this decades old technology in their engines and thereby improve lifespan and ease maintenance issues of their engines?
#27
Toyota/Lexus has had the dual injection (direct+port injected) V6 engines since 2007 which prevents carbon buildup in the port intakes. That's more than a decade. How come the German luxury marques like BMW, who are hyped for being on the cutting edge of engine/powertrain technology, couldn't implement this decades old technology in their engines and thereby improve lifespan and ease maintenance issues of their engines?
#28
#30
Toyota/Lexus has had the dual injection (direct+port injected) V6 engines since 2007 which prevents carbon buildup in the port intakes. That's more than a decade. How come the German luxury marques like BMW, who are hyped for being on the cutting edge of engine/powertrain technology, couldn't implement this decades old technology in their engines and thereby improve lifespan and ease maintenance issues of their engines?
The Japanese just have a different philosophy and business model with cars, they don't want to be known for unreliability nor do they rely much on replacing things that fail/expensive maintenance, their vehicles may not be as fancy, cutting edge, brands don't have the history/prestige but you get a much cheaper vehicle to own especially long term. Their buyers have different priorities too, they generally will not put up with unreliable Japanese models and will move to other brands quickly if the ownership is painful, the brand/prestige simply is not there with Japanese brands where owners may put up with it to have that much more prestigious Mercedes, BMW, or Range Rover in the driveway.