I was at the light earlier with a Model X next to me. While waiting for the light to turn green (so I can race him ) I noticed it go back and forth. Almost like rolling back then go forward. Very interesting "behavior". I thought maybe this guy was doing one pedal driving but it doesn't match the description as explained below. The whole time back and forth, brake light was never on. Very interesting. And we were on fairly flat pavement too.

Source

How Does One-Pedal Driving Work?

One-pedal driving allows a driver to bring a vehicle to a full stop without using the brake pedal. In most cases, there is an on-off button that engages this feature, as shown in the photo above. The button activates the one-pedal driving system in the 2022 Chevrolet Bolt EUV.

As the driver anticipates a stop ahead due to a traffic light or a stop sign, they can ease their foot off the accelerator pedal. The vehicle will begin to decelerate at a force of approximately .2g. This deceleration force is equivalent to 20% of full braking force, gradually slowing the car compared to the typical application of the hydraulic brakes. Once the vehicle stops entirely, the hydraulic brakes engage to keep the vehicle at a full stop until the driver presses the accelerator pedal to move forward again.

 

$4.19 for premium? I thought Maryland was pretty expensive for gas, similar to Washington.

I don't get the point of one pedal. It's etched in our brains to have one pedal for acceleration and one for braking. Has been that way since the beginning of time.

 

Apparently it's pretty neat. I'd like to try it personally.

 

I've only used it for a few days in a rental, but it's an easy adjustment and is totally awesome. On day 2 I did a 45 minute drive through rural, highway (with and without heavy traffic) and city, without touching the brake pedal a single time. I especially love having to do literally nothing at stoplights.

Using a tiller to steer was the only thing etched in drivers' brains for many years. We seem to have adjusted to steering wheels ok.

 

If it was one pedal, I would think it's what you experienced. It would stop and hold like other brands' auto hold at stop/light. This model X was going back and forth and taillight was never turned on. I thought maybe the car was rolling back and the brake light was out but it worked when he braked further down.

 

That was with 20c off Tuesdays and I had 25c off in Giant points, so reallty it was $4.69. Still not terrible.

Annoyingly, I am going to have to order new front tires for the S560. These tires only have about 12,000 miles on them, I got them in June of last year. Rears look great. I am told that Mercedes dials in some sort of camber in their alignment specs that causes wear like this. Wear is only on the outside edge, inside edge looks great but the fronts at their deepest tread are 5/32...rears are 8/32nds. So definitely only ordering fronts.

Front:




Rear:

 

In my part of Maryland, I paid $3.97 for 93 octane last night when I filled up my X7.

As for whether I like push button vs. keys, push button all the way. I rented a Camry in vegas last week with a keyed ignition and I kept having to fish around for my keys every time I got in it and felt annoyed because I’m so used to a button.

 

Is your S560 AWD? If so, check the Owners' Manual...replacing tires two at a time may not be an option, but it may depend on how much the rears are worn. If 8/32 is considered normal tread, then replacing only the two fronts with new ones and 8/32 is no problem. The main issue is that, with car-based AWD and a center-differential, you want all four tires to have as close to the same outside rolling-diameter as possible, so that all four tires rotate at the same speed and avoid unneeded stress and heat build-up on the differential.

Aside from that, it seems odd that Mercedes would (apparently) dial in extra positive camber, which would cause the outside of the tires to wear like yours. Usually, for better handling and tire-grip, you want just enough negative camber that, as the weight of the front end shifts over the outside tire in a curve, the camber balances out the tendency of the tire to lean in, and the tire remains straight up and down.

 

Its AWD. I'm not worried about it. Think of it this way, right now the fronts are at 5/32nds and the rears are at 8/32nds, that's a difference of 3/32nds. The tires new have a depth of 10/32nds...so if I replace the fronts the difference between the fronts and rears will only be 2/32nds.

Apparently the negative camber has to do with high speed stability...

 

Funny I was thinking the exact same thing. I’ve never seen tires wear on the outside on any of my cars because most had more negative camber so I had more inner tire wear.

 

I've never had this issue either outside of this car. The last set of tires were the same way, but it took twice as long. They were Grand Touring tires not UHP tires though. This is my first car with staggered wheels though.

The MB forum suggests I let Mercedes align it, so thats what I will do. I'll have my shop mount and balance them but I will have MB do the alignment.

 

Hmm I'd say an alignment is needed. Very typical for wear to appear on the inside of the tires with Mercedes, not outside.

 

I thought that too until I really started to look into it, and outside wear is also common.

 

It's like driving a canyon road in a manual car or a manumatic with lockup, drags the car down without using brakes. I just had a nice drive though the mountains near the Wilson factory in AK going 80-110 and most curves (45 suggested) were gentle enough I didn't need brakes and just downshifted to get the RPMs up to 5-6k and let it slow itself.

One pedal is similar except it's higher risk to confuse controls vs 2 pedal. It's just able to hold the car still once it slows it down.

 

This is indeed true, the Germans want to ensure you can still "flick" over at 100+ without screwing up the contact patch. Problem is that negative camber on the front compounds with toe and kills the outside shoulders due to slip.

UHPs always wear faster due to internal forces across the contact patch and of course the compound is also more aggressive.

Always take a German/Multi link car back to the correct dealer regardless of where you buy or have tires installed and every time you get tires unless they are the exact same type. Actual section width between two tires of the same size usually is not the same and you should always realign.

Staggered wheels are a pain, not much else to say about them. It makes sense for track cars so that grip under power is "perfect" and in sync with weight under power but for street cars it's just an annoyance that kills tires