Please help me get my car running again.

I live in sd and would be willing to drive anywhere.

Was hoping to pick everyones brain in a possible solution to get this b back up and running.

About a month ago, i started getting a no start issue when the engine got warm. After a few times of cranking she'll start and run fine. Checkt code and got a code 14 so i started doing a thorough check of the starting/ign system. Replaced both cam sensors, swapped igniters and new coil pack clips. Now car wont start even when cold and still throwing 14.

While going through wiring i noticed i wasnt getting any igt 5v from ecu on cyl 2&4 and all 12v igfs are there as well as the othe 5vs to the other cylinders. Is this normal? I thought i was getting a short between igt2 and igt4 so i checkt continuity between ecu n igniter clip and eveything was good, voltage wasnt hopping between wires.

Any possibility of meeting up to test my 1jz ecu or other suggestions would be well appreciated.

Thanks and have a great weekend

 

The igt signals are pulse signals and a simple voltage check is not enough. An oscilloscope is needed to check. Anyway, have you checked the 5V regulator's out put measuring the ripple voltage? This is about an LS400, but there must be some similarities.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-by-yamae.html

 

Thanks for the response Yamae,

I believe that requires an idling car to test. Im currently not getting spark. Do you happen to have a non vvti 1j? If you do, could you test the igniter plug for those 5v readings? Pls pls pls =p

 

Hi Yamae,
I saw a thread u started regaring ecu services. Any you would recommend? I tried Dm and relentless. Dm doesnt do it and im not familiar with relentless. I opened up my ecu and noticed 2 obvious caps leaking.

Whats your wisdom on how long the repair will last for and are they even worth it? Would you just go standalone? Im only on stock twins n hope they can last for a while.

Thanks again

 

The wealth of info you and Cowboy have posted regarding this is priceless and i cant thank you guys enough. Ive compiled a list of the different caps and read that on the replacements, getting something with a higher voltage is better compared to the original caps voltage. Buying the ones with the highest voltage is what would be best?

Ex.


Another question i have since i have the 47uf is this 47uf special bp. Based on the pic above, is that the 47ųf i need to acquire or just a regular 47uf?

Thanks again for all your help!

 

Too higher voltage is not quite OK because the chemical reaction inside is not very well done.

Regarding a BP 47uF, it's the best to find a exact one but when you have a difficulty to do so, there is a way. Use 2 of 100uF capacitors connecting - lead together like the way below and install them. 2 minus leads are connected. So that both ends are plus. Use that as a single BP capacitor.
-||--||-

 

testing a response on the comment section of this forum

 

Thanks for all your help Yamae!

I was able to switch the caps out and it and it fixed the car! With the extra caps i bought we were able to even fix another members ecu at the same time. He had a different symptom (Wouldnt rev over 4k when loaded).

Thanks for providing your wisdom regarding my issue and helping to diagnose my problems! Youre the best!

 

Great to hear that the cap fix has saved another.

 

Thanks for the update. It is my pleasure that you succeeded to fix. I now hope that you'll help others on this Forum who are having the same problem with you.

It was the moderator RA40, Mike who informed me that you were having a problem and I came here and wrote just some. His arrangement worked well, I must add.

 

You guys are the best!

Without the help of clublexus this wouldve never been done.

After a couple days though my code 14 came back up as a misfire on startup, again, when the engine got hot. It would start, miss, code would show. After a few seconds, the idle would drop and the code would go away. I switched it for another igniter and havent had that happen since.

Ive gotten to the point that i want to refresh the ignition system. ive been doing a lot of research and decided to go with 2zz coils for their availability and price.



I was going to connect a harness plug to my igt wires coming from the ecu and build a new harness to run the coils. This should allow me to easily switch to different coils in the future if need be. My goal is to completely delete the igniter and all its wiring but yet have it so i can go back to the original setup with some new 8-10 pin waterproof connectors.

I did hit a snag though. Researching how this is to be wired is not as available and im surprised there hasnt been more clarification about this install. Hope the rest of this post helps. I am able to adjust the title in this thread right?

So this is where im at......

stock wiring diagram


This is how the 2zz coils are set up



With pin 3 on the coils working as the igf, shouldnt i be able to run this in parallel straight back to the igf line on the ecu and call it a day? Ive heard of needing a resistor but not sure if itd be necessary with the Toyota coils, nor do i know where to wire it in.

It seems like i need to factor in the tach signal and tap into the same igf wire to get the tacho to work? Does this sound right??

Thanks again for your help guys! Hope youre having a great November so far