Nigel-JDMParts NOKYA Halogens Light Bulbs!!
#32
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These Nokya bulbs are rated at 80 watts while the stock IS350 9006 fogs are rated at 50 watts.
Won't these eventually melt the stock harnesses with the higher wattage??
Won't these eventually melt the stock harnesses with the higher wattage??
So are these bulbs rated at 80 watts and susceptible to melting the stock harness?
Do you provide aftermarket harnesses with these bulbs as a result?
These questions were never answered...
#33
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Here is the answer,
http://www.nokyausa.com/aws/aws7410.html
they are 70 watt and only stage II with 100 watt need aftermarket harnesses,
BUT I only sell stage I.
I dont provide aftermarket harnesses, but you can purcahse it from me if you want it.
Last edited by Nigel-JDMParts; 04-30-09 at 08:28 PM.
#34
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Here is the answer,
http://www.nokyausa.com/aws/aws7410.html
they are 70 watt and only stage II with 100 watt need aftermarket harnesses,
BUT I only sell stage I.
I dont provide aftermarket harnesses, but you can purcahse it from me if you want it.
http://www.nokyausa.com/aws/aws7410.html
they are 70 watt and only stage II with 100 watt need aftermarket harnesses,
BUT I only sell stage I.
I dont provide aftermarket harnesses, but you can purcahse it from me if you want it.
#40
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
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This may be a stupid question but are these bulbs for an HID car? I don't have HID's but I'm looking to get some 9006's to match these as close as possible. Right now I have Sylvania Silverstar 9006's and they are not as white as my city lights I just installed. Let me know....thanks.
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#41
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No matter if you upgrade the lighting or keep it stock you must have "full" voltage ACROSS THE BULB. Period. Measure the bat voltage with the bulb ON. Then measure the voltage across the bulb AT THE BULB. The bulb measurement should equal the bat voltage minus a couple tenths. I have never found this to be the case on any car I have ever owned.....thats a bunch. I invariably install a 30 amp cube relay to power the light and I use the original equip wire to "control" the relay. I run power to the cube with an oversized wire and I pick up the 12 volts from a bus I insatll near the bat terminal. You give stock lights a couple more volts and they start to look a lot better. Same goes for any upgrade. This is a "Pay me now or Pay me later" deal.
HTH,
John
HTH,
John
#42
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No matter if you upgrade the lighting or keep it stock you must have "full" voltage ACROSS THE BULB. Period. Measure the bat voltage with the bulb ON. Then measure the voltage across the bulb AT THE BULB. The bulb measurement should equal the bat voltage minus a couple tenths. I have never found this to be the case on any car I have ever owned.....thats a bunch. I invariably install a 30 amp cube relay to power the light and I use the original equip wire to "control" the relay. I run power to the cube with an oversized wire and I pick up the 12 volts from a bus I insatll near the bat terminal. You give stock lights a couple more volts and they start to look a lot better. Same goes for any upgrade. This is a "Pay me now or Pay me later" deal.
HTH,
John
HTH,
John