Hello to all. I had a hybrid battery that I had to replace a few modules in, so I took it out of the vehicle and did several different load tests on each individual module in different conditions and the failed modules have now been replaced and grid charged to 142v, then discharged, then charged back up, left for 24 hours, checked voltages, then load tested. Everything was fine so I topped off the charge and put the battery back in. With the downtime on waiting for charging and discharging, I also cleaned the whole EGR system, which doesn’t amount to much on my concern I don’t think.

I put the battery is back in and all plugs are plugged in, including the interlocking switch (yes it’s in correctly, 100%). I have tested this circuit and it’s good but the battery voltage sensor ecu is saying otherwise.

This has been a nightmare and I’m reaching out in hopes of someone out there who has experienced this because I’m out of what the heck to do next.

Will not go into “READY” mode. Hybrid battery COOLING FAN is on as soon as the ignition is “on” and remains on until I power off the ignition.

I have replaced all the bus bars and nuts. I have replaced the bus bar wiring harness to the battery ecu and I have also replaced the whole junction relay box with new relays.

Techstream says as follows:

Anyone know what “connector cover assembly” is in the “ILK” circuit right before it gets to the “air conditioning harness”?




I jumpered this circuit to make sure it was closed and it is to rule out for the P0A0D code.

 

Safety interlock device locations:

First device is located at the service plug grip. 2nd is at the frame wire, connected to the inverter with converter assembly. 3rd is located at inverter cover where the motor and generator cables and number 2 engine wire (air conditioning harness) are connected to the inverter with converter assembly.

Removal of the plug grip, frame wire or inverter cover, will open the interlock signal.

 

WOW you just opened my horizons to a new look on the problem and I bet you that the problem is in the engine bay from when I was doing the egr cleaning and removal. I wasn’t easy on the wiring while trying to get to that bottom bolt on the egr cooler.. hmmm..

 

Just an update. I believe it’s the power management control Unit and I’ve got another one on the way.

 

Ok, so the ecu did not fix the problem. I’m a little unsure now. I wish I could just override the code and move on. It’s bizarre to me that the battery fan is on with the ignition on.. Could it be lack of wiring insulation? Maybe it’s picking up too much noise? I’m confused.

 

I have tested every test possible I feel like at this point. I am supposed to be getting 11-14v with ignition on pin A19-32 of the power management control ECU and I’m getting 5.4v. The other pins on the power management control ECU test with the correct voltage. I have tried 3 different ECUs for this. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. I REALLY need to get this thing back on the road.

 

I see you replaced the ECU in the engine bay? I never had a problem with my CT, but I had a Prius with the same powertrain as the CT that gave me a similar problem. I replaced the ECU inside the battery pack. I'm not sure if you've replaced it already.