HID Kit Help
#106
#107
You don't need a dedicated wiring harness; that is not the problem. The old wires are fine and you will see absolutley no difference. However, there is a significant difference in the quality of ballasts and some of the lower cost HID ballasts, such as Kensun and DDM sometimes have problems. A good ballast provides enought current to fire the HIDs every time, and then limit the current as the arcs negative resistance is encountered. A very good brand that has beeen used by others without failure on the CT200Forum is H11: Morimoto Elite HID System $150.00 http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...oducts_id=3955
I personally have 6000k 35W Kensun and have not had any problems after almost a year's installation. I had some DDM HIDs installed but they failed a lot.
I agee 8000K does not look good, too purpleish. I like 6000K best because it ligths the road with a nice white glow. 4300K matches the DRL lEDs exactly, but gives the road a little yellowish -white glow.
I personally have 6000k 35W Kensun and have not had any problems after almost a year's installation. I had some DDM HIDs installed but they failed a lot.
I agee 8000K does not look good, too purpleish. I like 6000K best because it ligths the road with a nice white glow. 4300K matches the DRL lEDs exactly, but gives the road a little yellowish -white glow.
That is the same system I bought and it comes with the dedicated HD harness that I am suggesting...
It is a wonderful kit. 1st class. and absolutely NOT yellow.
#108
Why a harness is not needed
Here is what a harness does and why in some very.very remote cases a harness might be needed.
When you use a harness instead of connecting the HID ballast to the original Light connection you connect a relay. When the lights would normally come on it activates the relay and closes a separate circuit which is directly wired to the battery ( fused of course). This means the circut to the HID ballast does not have any other components on the circuit so that it should see the full 12 volts of the battery and when loaded the full rated current. Again I will say this is not needed. You are seeing 12 vols at the lights which are rated the same 35W as the HID ballast. And if you will check the OEM lights are actually on a 40 amp fused circuit.
The only time a harneess would ever been need would be if you had other components on you OEM light circuit that limit the votage and or the current ( 35w/12v = 2.92 amperes). You will see absolutely no difference with or without the harness; it is not needed.
Enjoy your HIDs
MidCow3
P.S. - Most of my posts have been on Ct200hforum and my Fogs are LEDs = Xenon White 96-SMD LED fogs.
Last edited by midcow3; 08-20-12 at 08:37 PM. Reason: spelling corrections
#109
midCow3: tell me more about the 96-SMD you swapped for the H11 fogs. Does the 96-smd spread the lights with sufficient lumens output like the H11? I have an extra pair of 96-smd which I was supposed to use for the fogs of an Outback but instead converted them to HID short bulbs. It came out very nice. It is easy to do HID conversion on Japanese vehicles since you ain't have to deal with the headaches of controller area network (CAN bus) issues typically of German cars.
#111
LED 96 fogs
Hookah66 The LED 96 fogs are awesome for looks, but not really good if you want to use then for low beams or fogs because as Kingnba6 said the is not much depth or dispersion from the LED lights. If I really needed fog lights for their light output I would probably go with yellow Phillips or Sylvania halogen lights.
Here is what I bought : http://store.ijdmtoy.com/HID-Xenon-S..._h11_sku42.htm
Here is what I bought : http://store.ijdmtoy.com/HID-Xenon-S..._h11_sku42.htm
Last edited by midcow3; 08-20-12 at 08:52 PM.
#112
I did own installation, it was not difficult at all, there was a nice horizontal shelf space to double tape the ballasts which are pretty small these days. The digital ballasts also do not produce any heat. One thing I was quite dismayed is the quality of CT's headlight assembly unit... it is simply a piece of CRAP!!! It is not inside a "shoe box" so the pig tail spades from the ballast is now exposed from the underside of the OEM H11's female connector. Make sure your installer get a male type H11 phenol plug so that the integrity of the connector is maintained. A properly sealed phenol automotive connector minimize arcing. Also have you noticed that inside the CT there is no exposed wiring? Keep that way, loom the wiring of your HID aftermarket kit.
Notice the cut off line from the pictures, it is jagged and not crispy. Our CT got a very low quality headlight assembly unit, its projector lens is a piece of CRAP!!! ... My 2010 Subaru Outback also came with projector halogen, and once I converted to HID, the pattern was superior to that of my e93 2009 BMW. And there is the annoying "squirrel spotters" too, although not too offensive if you stick to 35W HID.
Notice the cut off line from the pictures, it is jagged and not crispy. Our CT got a very low quality headlight assembly unit, its projector lens is a piece of CRAP!!! ... My 2010 Subaru Outback also came with projector halogen, and once I converted to HID, the pattern was superior to that of my e93 2009 BMW. And there is the annoying "squirrel spotters" too, although not too offensive if you stick to 35W HID.
#113
sorry for bringing up a old thread but all the CT200h HID upgrader, what you are doing about the "squirrel spotter" issue with our headlight?
has anyone flashed you for the glare after upgrading to HID low?
those unfamiliar with the term, see the 2 "boxes" looking thing projected by the light? that's the squirrel spotter, and changing to HID makes it 3x as bright causing glare to oncoming traffic..
has anyone flashed you for the glare after upgrading to HID low?
those unfamiliar with the term, see the 2 "boxes" looking thing projected by the light? that's the squirrel spotter, and changing to HID makes it 3x as bright causing glare to oncoming traffic..
#114
I didn't do anything w/ the "squirrel spotters". Even with all the issues associated with the "squirrel spotters", I have driven 15K with my converted HID without getting any flashes. From well lit secondary roads of NY/NJ area to the deserted back roads of Halifax/Prince Edward Island in Canada. I think the reason being is that the CT200H is relative low compared to a SUV. I also got converted HID fog light which I only turn on during rain/snow storm. My HID's are 4000K 35 watts. I did use pigtail w/ H11 phenolic connectors.
Last edited by hookah66; 04-15-13 at 08:19 AM.
#116
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