E46CT CT200h Diary (w/ pictures)
#46
Correct I use an adapter 6x9 to 6.5" for the front. They are Polk Audio 120w rms per pair. I think they are split up between the tweeters so it's probably less going to them. it's conservative
#47
Sorry for all the questions! It seems like you’re pretty familiar with working on this car.
#48
The speakers I used Polk DB651 come with the tweeters built into the speaker. For tweeters, I bought some aftermarket tweeters, and mounted them with slight trimming/modification of said speakers. I think they are Rockford Fosgate speakers. But really most 4 inchers would work. I thought about running no tweeters so tried it for a while without tweeters. Decided ultimately it sounded a tad better with them. Even if it is cutting some power from the door speakers. The sound reflecting off the windshield really helps.
Wiring wasn't really a pain, just time consuming. It is a bit of a chore to run them around the hybrid battery as to not get hung up around any sharp edges. Secure everything down nicely and zip tie them. And run them down the passenger side and above the passenger footwell plastic trim and behind the radio. I basically ran wires from the headunit output to the amp input (in the "trunk") and RCA pair from the amp output to a line out converter spliced to the wires leading to the speakers (at the back of the headunit)
Basically the stock wires leading from the back of the headunit TO the speakers had to be cut.
The sound is amazingly loud and clear. Almost gives you goosebumps when playing a song with nice vocals. No distortion whatsoever.
Of course it's a budget setup and you can certainly do cleaner installs with a headunit that has cleaner output, but I want to retain a stock classy look and not go all 1990s.
Wiring wasn't really a pain, just time consuming. It is a bit of a chore to run them around the hybrid battery as to not get hung up around any sharp edges. Secure everything down nicely and zip tie them. And run them down the passenger side and above the passenger footwell plastic trim and behind the radio. I basically ran wires from the headunit output to the amp input (in the "trunk") and RCA pair from the amp output to a line out converter spliced to the wires leading to the speakers (at the back of the headunit)
Basically the stock wires leading from the back of the headunit TO the speakers had to be cut.
The sound is amazingly loud and clear. Almost gives you goosebumps when playing a song with nice vocals. No distortion whatsoever.
Of course it's a budget setup and you can certainly do cleaner installs with a headunit that has cleaner output, but I want to retain a stock classy look and not go all 1990s.
#49
The speakers I used Polk DB651 come with the tweeters built into the speaker. For tweeters, I bought some aftermarket tweeters, and mounted them with slight trimming/modification of said speakers. I think they are Rockford Fosgate speakers. But really most 4 inchers would work. I thought about running no tweeters so tried it for a while without tweeters. Decided ultimately it sounded a tad better with them. Even if it is cutting some power from the door speakers. The sound reflecting off the windshield really helps.
Wiring wasn't really a pain, just time consuming. It is a bit of a chore to run them around the hybrid battery as to not get hung up around any sharp edges. Secure everything down nicely and zip tie them. And run them down the passenger side and above the passenger footwell plastic trim and behind the radio. I basically ran wires from the headunit output to the amp input (in the "trunk") and RCA pair from the amp output to a line out converter spliced to the wires leading to the speakers (at the back of the headunit)
Basically the stock wires leading from the back of the headunit TO the speakers had to be cut.
The sound is amazingly loud and clear. Almost gives you goosebumps when playing a song with nice vocals. No distortion whatsoever.
Of course it's a budget setup and you can certainly do cleaner installs with a headunit that has cleaner output, but I want to retain a stock classy look and not go all 1990s.
Wiring wasn't really a pain, just time consuming. It is a bit of a chore to run them around the hybrid battery as to not get hung up around any sharp edges. Secure everything down nicely and zip tie them. And run them down the passenger side and above the passenger footwell plastic trim and behind the radio. I basically ran wires from the headunit output to the amp input (in the "trunk") and RCA pair from the amp output to a line out converter spliced to the wires leading to the speakers (at the back of the headunit)
Basically the stock wires leading from the back of the headunit TO the speakers had to be cut.
The sound is amazingly loud and clear. Almost gives you goosebumps when playing a song with nice vocals. No distortion whatsoever.
Of course it's a budget setup and you can certainly do cleaner installs with a headunit that has cleaner output, but I want to retain a stock classy look and not go all 1990s.
I’ll probably run components in the front doors at 55w RMS and a 10” sub at 200w RMS. I was originally going to use a 4 channel amp and bridge the rear channels but I think it would sound better to use a separate mono amp for the sub.
My previous system would seriously crank but I don’t want to push the limits in the hybrid system.
#50
Yeah. Ultimately the hybrid battery pack is powering (or at least recharges the 12V as it gets drained) your sound system and draining it even faster defeats the purpose of the hybrid system. So I went for a sound system light and normally only play it at low to moderate volume. I can still get 50-55mpg highway cranking tunes. And overall 38-41mpg avg normally. So pretty much unchanged before and after.
#51
Yeah. Ultimately the hybrid battery pack is powering (or at least recharges the 12V as it gets drained) your sound system and draining it even faster defeats the purpose of the hybrid system. So I went for a sound system light and normally only play it at low to moderate volume. I can still get 50-55mpg highway cranking tunes. And overall 38-41mpg avg normally. So pretty much unchanged before and after.
#52
Are you using an amp to power those speakers up? So you just changed out the front and dash speakers and made a huge improvement? How are you connecting the speakers up to the OEM speaker connection?
#53
Crutchfield has NO data on the CT, not even speaker sizes.
#55
Yeah, this is what I want to know. How to did you interface the new speakers to the factory head unit? Add an amp? My experience with Toyota/Lexus audio recently is it is all proprietary, and difficult to upgrade. All the 12 speakers in my Land Cruiser are 2 ohm impedance, for instance. I am not impressed with the high $$$ JBL system in this truck, but even Crutchfield was stumped on how to do any upgrades.
Crutchfield has NO data on the CT, not even speaker sizes.
Crutchfield has NO data on the CT, not even speaker sizes.
I could never pull this off in my IS200t. It has complex and crossed/filtered everything.
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Raidin (11-18-19)
#58
Next oil change coming up soon. For now, I guess I am doing 5,000 mile OCIs. Seems excessive. May have it blackstone tested just to get a feel for how long I can go. It's cheap and easy to do so for now it's OK. I will be using Amazon 0W-20 next. The money I saved on it went towards my oil filter.
And I refilled my tires to 40 psi. They were down to 32/32/32/29 PSI after 6 months or so when I put them all at about 40. The one low tire was just enough to trip the light. I think i'll check my tires every 2-3 months now just to make sure I'm getting maximum MPG.
And I refilled my tires to 40 psi. They were down to 32/32/32/29 PSI after 6 months or so when I put them all at about 40. The one low tire was just enough to trip the light. I think i'll check my tires every 2-3 months now just to make sure I'm getting maximum MPG.
#59
Performed oil change #2.
Tools/items used:
Amazon 0W-20
YZZA6 Genuine Toyota Filter
12031 Genuine Oil Drain Pan Gasket
Generic Toyota-Type oil filter housing wrench
10mm socket w/ 1/4" ratchet (for plastic drain cover)
14mm socket w/ 3/8" ratchet (for oil drain plug)
Flat tip screw driver (for oil filter housing safety pin)
Funnel
Drain pan
Blanket to lay on
Ramps
Jack stands (for added safety under car)
Nitrile rubber gloves
Flashlight
Tip: when I first did this job the first time on this car, I noticed a hardened circular ring around where I removed the oil drain plug. Tried removing it with my finger but it wouldn't budge. Was contemplating whether or not this was cast into the pan itself and metal. I even tried prying it with a screwdriver. Didn't budge. I figured it was part of the pan.
This time around I noticed the oil pan was slightly wet with oil near the gasket so I figured I had a double gasket on there when I did the change the first time. Sure enough this time the OLD gasket doubled up w/ the gasket i installed and it came off easy. so I can confirm for anyone else that runs into this the pan should be completely smooth around where the drain plug installs. No lip. It's just a stubborn hardened stuck on gasket. I cleaned the pan and drain plug with rubbing alcohol.
Don't forget the oil drain gasket (it's on top of the Toyota box).
Forgot to pre-soak the filter with oil. But the engine started right up with only a hint of chatter for a split second.
Last step: go to Lexusdrivers.com and enter in oil change info for record keeping
Tools/items used:
Amazon 0W-20
YZZA6 Genuine Toyota Filter
12031 Genuine Oil Drain Pan Gasket
Generic Toyota-Type oil filter housing wrench
10mm socket w/ 1/4" ratchet (for plastic drain cover)
14mm socket w/ 3/8" ratchet (for oil drain plug)
Flat tip screw driver (for oil filter housing safety pin)
Funnel
Drain pan
Blanket to lay on
Ramps
Jack stands (for added safety under car)
Nitrile rubber gloves
Flashlight
Tip: when I first did this job the first time on this car, I noticed a hardened circular ring around where I removed the oil drain plug. Tried removing it with my finger but it wouldn't budge. Was contemplating whether or not this was cast into the pan itself and metal. I even tried prying it with a screwdriver. Didn't budge. I figured it was part of the pan.
This time around I noticed the oil pan was slightly wet with oil near the gasket so I figured I had a double gasket on there when I did the change the first time. Sure enough this time the OLD gasket doubled up w/ the gasket i installed and it came off easy. so I can confirm for anyone else that runs into this the pan should be completely smooth around where the drain plug installs. No lip. It's just a stubborn hardened stuck on gasket. I cleaned the pan and drain plug with rubbing alcohol.
Don't forget the oil drain gasket (it's on top of the Toyota box).
Forgot to pre-soak the filter with oil. But the engine started right up with only a hint of chatter for a split second.
Last step: go to Lexusdrivers.com and enter in oil change info for record keeping
Last edited by E46CT; 04-29-19 at 02:03 PM.