When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
^^ ohhh nice combo @00goobs!!!! now im thinking to find like a crazy high mileage ct200h for like $7k so i can join the daily driver ct200h club. theres actually a blue one near me with like 200k miles for like $7k, lol!!! in due time.
^^ ohhh nice combo @00goobs!!!! now im thinking to find like a crazy high mileage ct200h for like $7k so i can join the daily driver ct200h club. theres actually a blue one near me with like 200k miles for like $7k, lol!!! in due time.
raidin whats your 0-60 on the rs3?
Stock has been tested at 3.7s by R&T magazine. That's with 400hp and 354 torque. I'm sitting at about 500/500 hp and torque, so I'm probably closer to 3.5s now.
I do love the dichotomy between both of my cars. Really night and day.
Stock has been tested at 3.7s by R&T magazine. That's with 400hp and 354 torque. I'm sitting at about 500/500 hp and torque, so I'm probably closer to 3.5s now.
I do love the dichotomy between both of my cars. Really night and day.
when did you get an rs3. congrats. i wanted one for a while. i'm aware of how fast they are modded =)
Originally Posted by 00goobs
I am paying for my wife's 2015 CT, and the leather on the seats feel AMAZING! Like a baby black cow gave it's skin to Lexus....
I wish my GS's seats were as soft.....
It'll do 80mph while getting close to 40mpg and look great.
40mpg is a bit optimistic @ 80 mph lol. I think last time I measured this I got 32mpg. And remember the #s are indicated, so you have to adjust if you want to be accurate. I'll bet the 4th gen prius can do 40mpg @ 80 due to aero and tires.
Our wheels, tires, and overall aesthetically pleasing form factor tends to hit mpg at speed.
@E46CT can you please link me the bi-xenon retrofit guide so I can upgrade? I lost pm privileges lol. Thanks homie.
its a 2017 ct200h f-sport.
also to @anyone it has 62k miles, when do I worry about egr, 80k?
Congrats on the new car. What did you pay for it?
I think most people with 15+ say to inspect egr around 75k.
Most importantly stay on top of oil changes. I have a 2016 with about 80k I plan to pull the egr pipe to inspect sometime soon. Going to start doing oil about every 5k miles.
Otherwise nothing really due for service on these cars until 100k miles I think...120k for spark plugs.
I think most people with 15+ say to inspect egr around 75k.
Most importantly stay on top of oil changes. I have a 2016 with about 80k I plan to pull the egr pipe to inspect sometime soon. Going to start doing oil about every 5k miles.
Otherwise nothing really due for service on these cars until 100k miles I think...120k for spark plugs.
Search E46CT 's thread on those headlights.
I paid just under 23 otd. I cannot find @E46CT 's thread on the headlight retrofit mod. Could you link it?
I forgot if I did one on this board. Maybe? Check PriusChat for an old thread I did (identical process on the CT)
Tips off the top of my head after having done this mod four times
You'll need to notch a tiny sliver (maybe 1/2" by 1-2") rectangle of stock chrome housing inside (you won't see the slit/cut outside once everything is back together) to clear the bi-xenon shutter. Quick work with a dremel, 30 seconds per side. Start with a small cut.
The projectors are direct bolt on using the stock mounting screws.
Make sure you get a roll of headlight sealant bead from the retrofitsource. Yes you could probably get by re-heating-remelting the stock glue but there's a chance there'll be an air gap and you'll have moisture in your headlights the next day. you'lll kick yourself. spend the money up front, place a few inches of the sealant here and there around the perimeter when you reheat/remelt the headlight in the oven. THEN install the stock screws around the headlight perimeter.
Also important: make sure you buy a dual relay harness. The dual relays act as redundancy in case one relay goes out at night. slim chances, but it's headlights so don't chance it.
Of course be careful around the ballasts during start up, touching a hot wire can kill you. Disconnect the battery to be safe.
Also tip when removing the headlights, there's a plastic tab on the headlight which hooks into the car's chassis. you'll wonder why the headlight wont budge after the screws are removed. That tab is why. Gently lift it with a screwdriver as you pull the headlight out.
Nice CT! Man I love my ES but I miss my CT more and more every day.. not in a way where i'd replace my ES but like i want to find a cheap one. A daily driver for my daily driver? I won't do it though. Unnecessary. The red looks good.
Also btw i doubt TRS still has the Denso ballasts but they're not $190 anymore. Last i got them a few years ago from an eBay supplier that sells them off junk cars. i think like $50 a side.
make sure you pot them before installing them using MG chemicals potting solution.
you can use whatever ballasts you like but for OEM Lexus performance, using the Densos is best. they fire instantly and work every time.
@E46CT Dang, honestly seems like a tough job , Im not incredibly car savvy , but I think the risk is worth the reward because hid's would modernize this car to umpteenth degree. I think Im going to attempt but am nervous. just a question off the top of my head is since the battery is in the trunk how does the wiring work? also what about lowering or raising the lights? Ill have to see where the headlights get their power from under the hood and go from there. It seems easy enough to just disassemble the housing and insert the hid light. the wiring is what scares me. there is a hid retrofit shop near me also, but highly doubt it would this good of a job. thanks for linking your guide. Also I see you got the ES hybrid mighty nice! def an upgrade over the CT, better mpg and performance? excellent choice though. yeah wouldn't make sense to grab, really.
@Raidin Thanks brotha. I really wanted a red. I already ordered f-sport lowering springs
The power for the headlights will come directly from a live 12V source but not the battery--the relay has a ring terminal for 12V that screws into the big white power plug in the main fuse box under the hood.
What triggers the relays to say "hey i need 12V from this white power plug!" ? The relays have two other inputs -- one to each stock low beam plug. So when you turn on your headlights, it triggers the relays which in turn pull power from that big white plug.
Of course you'll need ground, you can ground to one of the bolts that goes into the chassis around the inverter. Everything should be routed and zip tied up professionally, you won't tell it's not OEM. The wiring is actually the easy part. It's baking the headlights, taking them apart without breaking anything (fragile plastic), and resealing them so there's no gaps in the glue when you seal them back together, is what's more difficult. The wiring is relatively easy since there's no art to it. The wires can only go in one way lol. Tip: connect the power to the white *(HOT)* 12V DEAD LAST so you don't kill yourself or short anything. if you don't feel comfortable doing it, take it to a shop. educational purposes only =)
also don't forget to wire the bi-xenon shutters, you'll need to tap the high beam wires. also you'll need rubber caps for the back of the projector or dirt will get inside the headlight. they sell them at HID retrofit stores or ebay. i forgot the size. i think 85mm. measure.. you can also use metal tape as a workaround.
it's a bit of a project that needs planning and prep but well worth the end result. Just watch lots of videos on youtube... most cars are universally similar in terms of the wiring and setup.
01-27-21, 06:51 PM
