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In the spirit and inspired by the previous Modest Speaker Upgrade thread, I finally pulled the plug in upgrading my audio experience and keeping really modest aligning with E46CT's first bullet point:
1) I'm never getting that money back from spending all that money on mods, so ideally I want to find a balance of sound quality, price, reversibility, ease of install.
Time and money is what I have much less when my family is my priority so wanted to keep it low cost and plug-and-play as much as possible so after reading many threads here and on CT200HForum I decided that just replacing speakers would be a good starting (and maybe final?) point. I started with the dash speakers and loved how the tweeter of the CLUB 3020s looked through the speaker grille looked like so I decided to club everything up.
So here's a list of what I'm adding:
Dash: 2x JBL 3.5" Club 3020 - $38.00 - installed
F.Door: 2x JBL 6x9" Club 9630 - $64.95
R.Door: 2x JBL 6.5" Club 6520 - $46.85 refurbished - on their way
Trunk: Lanzar 6.5" Subwoofer - $26.39
2x Metra 82-8148 6" to 6-3/4" Speaker Adapter - $16.21
2x Metra 82-8146 6" x 9" Front Speaker Adapter - $13.99
2x Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector - $6.99
Window Air Conditioner Foam Strip Insulation,1x1", 13ft long - $12.99
I'm no audiophile but I still remember how disappointed I was when I heard the Lexus "upper tier" 10-speaker system. Here's some discussion points:
Now, I have a little doubt about the front 6x9s since several people have replaced them with 6.5s, I just wanted to keep the same form-factor as the car, did I mess-up here?
I got the cheapest subwoofer that I could replace directly to see if this upgrade would be enough for me or look into opening the enclosure for an 8" as some have done, if I do, I would like to keep it JBL, will the Stage 810 200-watt do? It's $54.95 Amazon Renewed
Will adding extra sound deadening make a significant improvement?
Ha, I just said the same thing the other day in this regard. Time and money (what little i have left) go towards home and family wants....but I need some better sound too. I have the 6 spkr setup, but premuim factory audio used to mean something else I guess. I remeber our 2005 Tahoe with Bose system truly was a Base system, sounded amazing (at least from what I recall).
The shops I talked to talked poorly of a simple speaker only upgrade, but I take the word of forum members who have actually done it over them. They install $2000 systems in $6000 cars all day and it's perfectly normal to them. Seems silly to me.
Are you sure the connectors are right? I'll need some from my rears when I order.
I'll be right with you doing the speakers and curious to see how they both come out. Can always ad an amp later if needed.
I also hope that the connectors are the right ones, I checked some forums and reviews, I will let you know tonight and follow-up with pictures. I've replaced the dash ones already, when I did one I played with the left/right slider and it did sound brighter on the side with the new speaker.
I really was motivated by your thread and all the people contributing with experience, to go ahead with the audio upgrade so I wanted to start this one so we could learn side-by-side. Even if it's not a life-changing upgrade, I'm down just over $200 and, like you said, can build upon it like adding an amp or significantly better speakers.
I also hope that the connectors are the right ones, I checked some forums and reviews, I will let you know tonight and follow-up with pictures. I've replaced the dash ones already, when I did one I played with the left/right slider and it did sound brighter on the side with the new speaker.
I really was motivated by your thread and all the people contributing with experience, to go ahead with the audio upgrade so I wanted to start this one so we could learn side-by-side. Even if it's not a life-changing upgrade, I'm down just over $200 and, like you said, can build upon it like adding an amp or significantly better speakers.
Right on, I'll already have the connectors for the front speakers, but will need dash at least, maybe rears too. Can you let me know which you got for the dash speakers?
I didn't get connectors for the dash speakers as I rushed but I wish I did, the factory wires are so nicely sleeved and I had to undo that to splice into them. The dash connector looks different to the ones I bought (doors), these ones do look like the ones posted in pictures from others.
I didn't get connectors for the dash speakers as I rushed but I wish I did, the factory wires are so nicely sleeved and I had to undo that to splice into them. The dash connector looks different to the ones I bought (doors), these ones do look like the ones posted in pictures from others.
These are the harnesses I use for both dash AND door speakers of ES and CT. https://amzn.to/3kHKrw3
The description even says CT and ES. so yeah they should work on both cars for both speaker setups. A bit pricey for what they are but it's always so nice when you don't have to cut anything.
In the spirit and inspired by the previous Modest Speaker Upgrade thread, I finally pulled the plug in upgrading my audio experience and keeping really modest aligning with E46CT's first bullet point:
Time and money is what I have much less when my family is my priority so wanted to keep it low cost and plug-and-play as much as possible so after reading many threads here and on CT200HForum I decided that just replacing speakers would be a good starting (and maybe final?) point. I started with the dash speakers and loved how the tweeter of the CLUB 3020s looked through the speaker grille looked like so I decided to club everything up.
So here's a list of what I'm adding:
Dash: 2x JBL 3.5" Club 3020 - $38.00 - installed
F.Door: 2x JBL 6x9" Club 9630 - $64.95
R.Door: 2x JBL 6.5" Club 6520 - $46.85 refurbished - on their way
Trunk: Lanzar 6.5" Subwoofer - $26.39
2x Metra 82-8148 6" to 6-3/4" Speaker Adapter - $16.21
2x Metra 82-8146 6" x 9" Front Speaker Adapter - $13.99
2x Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector - $6.99
Window Air Conditioner Foam Strip Insulation,1x1", 13ft long - $12.99
I'm no audiophile but I still remember how disappointed I was when I heard the Lexus "upper tier" 10-speaker system. Here's some discussion points:
Now, I have a little doubt about the front 6x9s since several people have replaced them with 6.5s, I just wanted to keep the same form-factor as the car, did I mess-up here?
I got the cheapest subwoofer that I could replace directly to see if this upgrade would be enough for me or look into opening the enclosure for an 8" as some have done, if I do, I would like to keep it JBL, will the Stage 810 200-watt do? It's $54.95 Amazon Renewed
Will adding extra sound deadening make a significant improvement?
Anything else to consider? I can still return stuff (except the 3.5"s, I'm not THAT guy that returns used stuff as new)
Nice. i have those in my ES. they sound great. One bolt wasn't perfectly lined up in my ES (and CT) but still was able to get the bolt to hold it down. it's not goin anywhere.
Yeah doing a full sound system is optimal, but these direct speaker replacements are nice upgrades on basic systems that have OEM cheap paper speakers. Manufacturers work hard to shave fractions of a cent off the cost of their cars and the speakers they choose are no exception.
These are the harnesses I use for both dash AND door speakers of ES and CT. https://amzn.to/3kHKrw3
The description even says CT and ES. so yeah they should work on both cars for both speaker setups. A bit pricey for what they are but it's always so nice when you don't have to cut anything.
Thank you for confirming those, but while they match the dash and probably the sub, they don't match the doors, at least not on my 2014 F-Sport. I appreciate that, I'm gonna order them for the dash and sub to undo my splicing which bugs me because everything is very nicely done from the factory. I did get the CLUB 3020s from your suggestion and just wanted to keep the whole theme thorough the whole car.
I just installed the front door speakers, the Metra adapters and connectors made it a seamless plug-and-play installation, I did add insulation to the back and front of the speaker adapter to match OEM intent. I was surprised at how easy it is to remove the door panels. One thing other people have done, instead of installing after-market speaker adapters, they cut the OEM speaker out of the plastic enclosure and install the aftermarket speaker onto that enclosure. I'm a hoarder and didn't want to cut perfect condition speakers. Overall look of OEM driver door Speaker connection, there's two white connectors there, I tried prying out the bigger one and almost broke it, pull the smaller white connector instead. Yeah, original magnet is about 30-40mm >.< This is the Metra connector, perfect fit Insulation behind the adapter, factory adapter had it so I tried mimicking it. Metra adapter bolted-on, it already contains a wire opening on two sides so make sure to orient it the best for your configuration. Here's the speaker and added insulation between it and the door panel, again, trying to mimic OEM installation.
So far I've replaced dash and front door speakers and I did one side at a time to compare using the left-right sound lever while listening to several song genre and I could certainly hear and feel every song more alive, more free, the stock amp is pretty loud and I can turn it higher without worrying about sound quality but more about my neighbors. I can hear the bass at volume tick 30, feel it at 40 and shake mirrors at 50. Can't wait to replace the sub.
The doors do need more sound deadening, car isn't engineered for higher/deeper volume and rattle at volume tick 50+
Last edited by liera21; 03-03-21 at 02:13 PM.
Reason: Expanding final thoughts
Another question, I saw that there's also component versions of these speakers where the main speaker is the cone and have a separate tweeter, would these be a better option since the CT is already configured/filtered like that?
That looks great. Glad to hear your happy with the improvement in sound too on those front speakers.
Edit: I've been inspired. Have same dash speakers coming. Then ordered the rears...figured might as well for another $45 not feel like I'm missing something.
Should have it done this weekend if I can find the time, I'll have everything by then.
Installed the sub, it's only 6.5" but it sounds better and louder than stock, already contemplating adding a nicer 8" and amp but the whole package as is now is good enough, don't want to shake neighbor's windows.
Big note, the sub grille is "permanently" attached to the side panel, I pried it off by hand thinking it was mounted with those inserts similar to the panels but those satisfying clip sounds were the glued standoffs snapping off the panel. It still looked like they could be easily glued back but another issue with my sub choice is that plastic surround ring that is glued to the speaker and wouldn't fit with the stock grille so I tried mounting it like this and I think it does show some character.
So I did some permanent modifications that I'd like to avoid but some were accidental and some were needed. The speaker wire was soldered to the stock speaker inside the enclosure so I snipped it off and attached female spade connectors after adding some length. I drilled mounting holes to the enclosure and mounted the new speaker from the outside meaning that if I want to remove the side panel I have to remove the speaker too, bonus is that the speaker is now way easier to replace.
Enjoy the following pictures, I'll be happy to answer any questions related to my experience doing this.
Cute... 6.5 inches, it's more like an angry chihuahua than a bulldog but it still barks louder than stock Stock stuffs, sub connector is the one at the bottom left, the whole enclosure is mounted with four bolts Rear view of the sub enclosure, two halves, screws all around and one under that square-ish backing foam This is the speaker, the magnet diameter is as big as that foam ring. Interesting to see here is that the design is a double cone, there's a second cone surround around the magnet on the back of the speaker
If I wanted to keep the same form-factor and aesthetic, would something like the below pic make a big difference (no amp)? I would like to add an amp but I think I would need to route a remote start wire to turn it on when the car starts, is there a way to do so splicing into anything in the trunk?
I'm still looking at subs because I spent only $26usd on the one I have just to gauge stock performance and the way I have it setup right now makes it way easy to replace them, this Kicker looks really good too specially for the price