It is possible to lock the doors with engine running
07-14-21, 12:27 PM
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Driver School Candidate
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It is possible to lock the doors with engine running
I know there have been some discussions about this and I read several topics while researching the solution to my issue. I just bought a 2012 CT200h about a month ago and was struggling with the problem of being unable to remotely lock the car with the keyfob remotely while it is running. I have discovered, as many of you also have, that if the car is running (ready light on) the buttons on the factory keyfob do nothing. I am in and out of the car a lot throughout the day and it would be nice to be able to leave it running and hit the button on the keyfob to lock it so I can keep the air conditioning on. What I have been doing is using the emergency key blade to turn in the door cylinder to lock / unlock the car which is less than ideal.
After much research and aggravation I have found a solution that works for me - I installed an aftermarket remote start. Not just any remote start, as I tried Viper first. The installers at Ziebart were unable to get it to do what I require, which is to simply be able to park, exit the car, hit the button on their aftermarket fob to lock the door. I don’t want to enable pitstop mode or to turn the vehicle off and enable remote start (both clunky processes to do). The Viper remote functions just like the factory remote in the regard that it does nothing while the car is running. I emailed Viper support and they confirmed that their system was not able to do that. I reached out to Compustar and described my specific scenario to them and they informed me that their system would indeed be capable of that. I found a local installer to install the four button 2-way remote start. The system price was around $430. He had issues initially but found out if he used the two wires dedicated to triggering the lock and unlock pulses to the factory wires that it would work. The remote start uses the car‘s “data stream” to sense if the car is running and if so, the keyfob behaves similarly to the factory keyfob. Using the two dedicated wires to trigger the locks bypasses that.
I am very happy with the setup. Remote start is less important to me than to be able to lock / unlock the car while it is running but it’s a nice bonus. I didn’t think I would care much about having the two way remote but it is indeed nice to hear a confirmation beep from the remote that the vehicle received the signal and performed the requested task. It also has a very long range. I can confirm that the car is locked / unlocked / remote started while I am inside the back of Lowe’s hardware just by the beeping of the remote. I also got the smart key card off eBay from Belle Lexus of Scottsdale Arizona for $238. Shipping was fast and as soon as I received it in the mail I programmed it myself with Techstream easily and without any hassles. I got the emergency key shank at a local Lexus dealer which included the key cutting for $50. I keep it in my wallet and I only have the single Compustar 2-way remote on my carabiner clipped to my belt instead of having two fobs constantly banging into each other.
There is also the option to get the $25 Docooler Car Remote Central Lock Locking Keyless Entry System with Remote Controllers on Amazon. This has not been tested by me but at it’s simplest it is tapping into the lock and unlock wires and hooking up positive and negative to the brain. Our system is a negative trigger so the included instruction sheet is wrong. But I would think that the brain doesn’t know, or care, that the car is running or not and should work. I hope this helps anyone else with this issue.
After much research and aggravation I have found a solution that works for me - I installed an aftermarket remote start. Not just any remote start, as I tried Viper first. The installers at Ziebart were unable to get it to do what I require, which is to simply be able to park, exit the car, hit the button on their aftermarket fob to lock the door. I don’t want to enable pitstop mode or to turn the vehicle off and enable remote start (both clunky processes to do). The Viper remote functions just like the factory remote in the regard that it does nothing while the car is running. I emailed Viper support and they confirmed that their system was not able to do that. I reached out to Compustar and described my specific scenario to them and they informed me that their system would indeed be capable of that. I found a local installer to install the four button 2-way remote start. The system price was around $430. He had issues initially but found out if he used the two wires dedicated to triggering the lock and unlock pulses to the factory wires that it would work. The remote start uses the car‘s “data stream” to sense if the car is running and if so, the keyfob behaves similarly to the factory keyfob. Using the two dedicated wires to trigger the locks bypasses that.
I am very happy with the setup. Remote start is less important to me than to be able to lock / unlock the car while it is running but it’s a nice bonus. I didn’t think I would care much about having the two way remote but it is indeed nice to hear a confirmation beep from the remote that the vehicle received the signal and performed the requested task. It also has a very long range. I can confirm that the car is locked / unlocked / remote started while I am inside the back of Lowe’s hardware just by the beeping of the remote. I also got the smart key card off eBay from Belle Lexus of Scottsdale Arizona for $238. Shipping was fast and as soon as I received it in the mail I programmed it myself with Techstream easily and without any hassles. I got the emergency key shank at a local Lexus dealer which included the key cutting for $50. I keep it in my wallet and I only have the single Compustar 2-way remote on my carabiner clipped to my belt instead of having two fobs constantly banging into each other.
There is also the option to get the $25 Docooler Car Remote Central Lock Locking Keyless Entry System with Remote Controllers on Amazon. This has not been tested by me but at it’s simplest it is tapping into the lock and unlock wires and hooking up positive and negative to the brain. Our system is a negative trigger so the included instruction sheet is wrong. But I would think that the brain doesn’t know, or care, that the car is running or not and should work. I hope this helps anyone else with this issue.
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Raidin (07-16-21)
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