Coolant issues
03-22-19, 08:09 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Coolant issues
Hey everyone need some advice here.
I have a 2011 CT on its 2nd motor due to blown head gasket, we fixed the head gasket, replaced the coolant sensors, reservoir cap, Thermostat. Went to take the car for a drive and the coolant light blinked, hooked the computer up showed 101-117 C. It climbed to 123 c, and started to back flow pressure into the reservoir. I’m down to either the radiator, hoses or water pump (which made some high pitches whining noises) has anyone experienced any of this?
I have a 2011 CT on its 2nd motor due to blown head gasket, we fixed the head gasket, replaced the coolant sensors, reservoir cap, Thermostat. Went to take the car for a drive and the coolant light blinked, hooked the computer up showed 101-117 C. It climbed to 123 c, and started to back flow pressure into the reservoir. I’m down to either the radiator, hoses or water pump (which made some high pitches whining noises) has anyone experienced any of this?
03-23-19, 08:53 PM
#2
When I blew my head gasket, we replaced the water pump just to be safe. According to a lot of reports on iATN, these pumps, when they fail, will fail intermittently, and so they may cause overheating with or without a coolant temp light. You might be seeing your water pump start failing...
03-25-19, 12:53 AM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
When I blew my head gasket, we replaced the water pump just to be safe. According to a lot of reports on iATN, these pumps, when they fail, will fail intermittently, and so they may cause overheating with or without a coolant temp light. You might be seeing your water pump start failing...
thats what I think is happening. The pump can’t keep up and it’s creating a blockage/back pressure into the the radiator tank. It’s not throwing codes for a pump issues, but the coolant comes on and off, and it will throw a code for the sensors (both are brand new). But I can get the light to go on and off with how I drive. But I do believe my issues now are at the pump especially with it whining.
03-26-19, 08:12 AM
#4
Lexus Test Driver
If the coolant light is flashing, on most cars that typically would mean that the level is low or there are large air pockets that are making the sensor intermittently trip. As well as cause overheating.
So you should first ensure the system is purged of air THEN ensure the level is correct. And try again.
So you should first ensure the system is purged of air THEN ensure the level is correct. And try again.
03-26-19, 08:18 AM
#5
Thanks for saying the water pump has a high pitched whine. I've noticed a new sound (high pitched, generally with light acceleration, never when the ICE isn't running) with our new engine and wasn't sure if it was just from being use to the original engine sounds or not. But this is a good clue to investigate further. Thankfully i have a spare water pump at the ready!
03-26-19, 08:56 AM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
One of the things that changed was when I use to get in the car and power it on I could hear the coolant/water pressurize in the system, on Friday I did not hear that at all. We purged the system, and same result. Pretty sure it’s water pump at this point.
03-26-19, 09:23 AM
#7
Lexus Test Driver
Could be. But how would you explain the coolant light? Assuming it means low coolant, which from my quick google search, it does. An underdriven pump could certainly cause overheating, but it wouldn't explain your low coolant light.
Unless you mean an overheating light?
I would need to know the exact light that you received
Unless you mean an overheating light?
I would need to know the exact light that you received
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03-26-19, 10:59 AM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
The “low coolant” light also monitors the temp of the coolant. If it’s just indicating “low coolant” that would make sense as it’s not pushing enough coolant past both sensors. I ran real time data from both sensors and the temp range per the computer 0-130c. The temp was all over the place, and the pump was whiny. It’s unable to keep up, or it’s failing which caused the initial overheating issue. Also the pump is unable to push coolant/water to the heater core now. I don’t hear the system pressurize like it once did. We’ve replaced everything else but the pump. 99.9% certain this is the issue.
03-26-19, 02:01 PM
#9
Lexus Test Driver
Yeah no believe me I'm all for replacing the water pump. I just know from experience that not bleeding the system can cause a lot of problems. I'm in the replace it camp and I would advocate replacing the water pump if you're in there even if it WASN'T failing.
Replace it by all means.
Replace it by all means.
The following 2 users liked this post by E46CT:
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03-26-19, 02:05 PM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Yeah no believe me I'm all for replacing the water pump. I just know from experience that not bleeding the system can cause a lot of problems. I'm in the replace it camp and I would advocate replacing the water pump if you're in there even if it WASN'T failing.
Replace it by all means.
Replace it by all means.
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