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2006 ES330. The driver door power window is not working. When the switch is pressed or lifted, no motor noise can be heard. Since door lock and sunroof both still work, it is not PWR No.1 fuse. (I started a thread for the same issue; but the title was too misleading. Thus this new thread.) The passenger windows are all working, and are all operable from the master switches on the same panel.
I have removed the switch assembly
from the car, but find it difficult to figure out how to test the switches with a multimeter without taking the assembly apart.
Put a test light (not a volt meter) on the motor itself see if there is power. Should be red wire and green wire, or white/black and red or green can't remember exactly.
I am yet to see the switch itself fail, they are quite robust on their own, at least those *digital* ones. In any case, you will have to take the Door Panel off and look around the mechanism to see if there is anything off, you can also test for power with Test Light as mentioned by LeX2K, do not use the multimeter, it shows voltage, but doesn't load the circuit, it doesn't tell if said voltage would drop under load, and can trick you badly if you have a bad contact or if you catch some cosmic radiation instead of actual readings.
If there is no power on the motor, and all other windows work from all the switches, my first suspect would be the Door ECU, as it is the one to power the motor. It should be easy to take one apart, see if there are any burnt traces from overload or any other damage, also check that the ECU itself is powered as well. There is a small chance of Double-Failure, for example if the window got jammed and someone else tried all their might to get it working again, they could very well have cooked the ECU along the way, even though there are thermal cut-offs present. In any case, don't get hung up one one specific issue.
Put a test light (not a volt meter) on the motor itself see if there is power. Should be red wire and green wire, or white/black and red or green can't remember exactly.
Thanks! I guess this is done from the wire end with the wire harness and the switch assembly connected, such like this?
I am yet to see the switch itself fail, they are quite robust on their own, at least those *digital* ones. In any case, you will have to take the Door Panel off and look around the mechanism to see if there is anything off, you can also test for power with Test Light as mentioned by LeX2K, do not use the multimeter, it shows voltage, but doesn't load the circuit, it doesn't tell if said voltage would drop under load, and can trick you badly if you have a bad contact or if you catch some cosmic radiation instead of actual readings.
If there is no power on the motor, and all other windows work from all the switches, my first suspect would be the Door ECU, as it is the one to power the motor. It should be easy to take one apart, see if there are any burnt traces from overload or any other damage, also check that the ECU itself is powered as well. There is a small chance of Double-Failure, for example if the window got jammed and someone else tried all their might to get it working again, they could very well have cooked the ECU along the way, even though there are thermal cut-offs present. In any case, don't get hung up one one specific issue.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Thanks! I have removed the door panel.
Besides checking power to motor at the wire switch wire harness (mentioned above), do I have ways to look more closely at the motor? Do I need to tear the plastics and gain better access?
I am yet to see the switch itself fail, they are quite robust on their own, at least those *digital* ones. In any case, you will have to take the Door Panel off and look around the mechanism to see if there is anything off, you can also test for power with Test Light as mentioned by LeX2K, do not use the multimeter, it shows voltage, but doesn't load the circuit, it doesn't tell if said voltage would drop under load, and can trick you badly if you have a bad contact or if you catch some cosmic radiation instead of actual readings.
If there is no power on the motor, and all other windows work from all the switches, my first suspect would be the Door ECU, as it is the one to power the motor. It should be easy to take one apart, see if there are any burnt traces from overload or any other damage, also check that the ECU itself is powered as well. There is a small chance of Double-Failure, for example if the window got jammed and someone else tried all their might to get it working again, they could very well have cooked the ECU along the way, even though there are thermal cut-offs present. In any case, don't get hung up one one specific issue.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
I have tested the power at the wire harness. The switch for the driver window actually works. When I press down, the red wire has power. When I lift it up, the green wire has power. Since the wire harness is after the ECU, can I conclude that the ECU is fine?
Also, with the door panel removed, I could hear sound in the door when the switch was pressed down or lifted up. It was not motor running sound. Rather it was like something was switched inside, near the motor I suppose. I still can't locate where the motor is. Videos I could find were on ES300. The layout behind the door panel are quite different in these two cars.
I have the FSM. But there is not a section on power windows. Any tips on how to access the motor will be appreciated.
If you have power, and it corresponds to the position of the switch, then the ECU is definitely fine. The motor though, it's a little hard to say, it can still go both ways - could be a jammed window, or a bad motor itself. Below is a video on Window Regulator replacement for a Camry, it should be fairly similar, at least it will help you locate the motor. Observe the mechanism, see if there are any signs of movement, anything at all, if not, then you can try to unscrew the window itself from the bracket and carefully try pulling it down to see if it's not just stuck to the door seals as it happens. If all that is good, you will need to take the Regulator out for a closer look.
If you have power, and it corresponds to the position of the switch, then the ECU is definitely fine. The motor though, it's a little hard to say, it can still go both ways - could be a jammed window, or a bad motor itself. Below is a video on Window Regulator replacement for a Camry, it should be fairly similar, at least it will help you locate the motor. Observe the mechanism, see if there are any signs of movement, anything at all, if not, then you can try to unscrew the window itself from the bracket and carefully try pulling it down to see if it's not just stuck to the door seals as it happens. If all that is good, you will need to take the Regulator out for a closer look.
I have removed the regulator and motor. Afterwards, I plugged them in and tested. They worked fine. Whether they work under load it is another question
But now I have another issue at hand. When I tried to take the glass out, just one wrong move, the glass got stuck. In the picture
, I assume where the glass contacts metal at the corner (near the screw) is what has caused this.
Was able to finally remove the glass (had to use ratchet straps to move it). Re-installed the regulator/motor. Turned out to work just fine. Guess the glass was just somewhat stuck (unrelated to the ordeal today).
Thank you Arsenii and LeX2K for your help! Much appreciated.
I just came to realize that the driver power window is not yet fixed for good. I can open it with no issue. Closing it is not straightforward, since it won't stay closed when auto up is used. I can close the window manually in multiple small steps.
I have seen several threads dealing with this. Usually it involves opening the window and holding the switch down for a few seconds, and than closing it, and holding the switch up for a few seconds.
My issue is that after I open the the window and hold the switch down for some seconds, the power window will stop working. I will not be able to close it by lifting the switch. There will be zero response from the window. Once I operate on the other windows, this driver window will start working again, although the auto up still won't get the window up and stay there. And the exact procedure to get the driver window move again is still not clear to me.
Is this a case of me not doing the reset procedure correctly, or is there something wrong with my regulator/motor of the the driver window? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
Do the other windows stop working if you perform a similar procedure there?
Do you hold the switch All the way down (Auto Down), or on the First click (Manual Down)? It seems like you do need to hold it in the Auto modes for both cases, aka push the switch All the way Down, then All the way Up, you need to hold the switch for at least 4 seconds in each position, and do it on all 4 windows for a successful learning.
10-21-23, 10:13 PM
Driver door power window not working
