Bank 2 Catalytic Converter
02-14-24, 03:08 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Bank 2 Catalytic Converter
So, Ive got the dreaded P0430 code, and I've done everything I could to try and clear it, it always comes back on. Anyways, Im getting ready to change it out with an OEM Lexus cat. Now, my question is, what else should I replace with it? Bolts, manifold studs and nuts, new nuts where I can find them... Anything else? Mind you, I'm just preparing for this, and everything is pretty rusty, but not horrible. I think I can reuse the heat shield, and I'm not sure about the bracket that the cat bolts on to. It looks a bit crusty, and annoying pricey. Please let me know if there's anything I should do or not do, and any tutorials before I start. Thanks in Advance
02-14-24, 06:15 PM
#3
Pole Position
Hello,
That determination does deserve a round of applause, not a lot of people would be willing to bury half the price of an entire ES into a Catalyst, that said, there are ways to make it less painful.
First of all, OEM is not the only option you can get. There are 2 standards for Catalysts accepted in US - Federal and California Specific, former being applicable to All the states, and the latter is .. well, specific to California, which would automatically make it a lot more stringent. California came up with a list of requirements to accept the state certification, and to have a legal right to sell it, and among those requirements is that it Must be guaranteed to work for at least 5 years after purchase. While not the most cost-efficient option, it will probably be better than OEM in terms of price, and a LOT more solid than most of Federal Certification catalysts out there. Here is a link to an official California database of aftermarket catalysts that are certified to be sold there, which should be a safe bet.
As for the rest of the stuff to replace, here is a Parts Catalogue for your car, which shows all the components and their Part Numbers, though it would be helpful if you would list the Year and Model of your car next time. I would replace all the gaskets, studs and bolts that you are thinking of unscrewing, parts like the brackets and heat shields can be found at junkyards or on eBay, or you can simply powder coat the existing bracket, I doubt it is rusted to the point of vaporizing.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
That determination does deserve a round of applause, not a lot of people would be willing to bury half the price of an entire ES into a Catalyst, that said, there are ways to make it less painful.
First of all, OEM is not the only option you can get. There are 2 standards for Catalysts accepted in US - Federal and California Specific, former being applicable to All the states, and the latter is .. well, specific to California, which would automatically make it a lot more stringent. California came up with a list of requirements to accept the state certification, and to have a legal right to sell it, and among those requirements is that it Must be guaranteed to work for at least 5 years after purchase. While not the most cost-efficient option, it will probably be better than OEM in terms of price, and a LOT more solid than most of Federal Certification catalysts out there. Here is a link to an official California database of aftermarket catalysts that are certified to be sold there, which should be a safe bet.
As for the rest of the stuff to replace, here is a Parts Catalogue for your car, which shows all the components and their Part Numbers, though it would be helpful if you would list the Year and Model of your car next time. I would replace all the gaskets, studs and bolts that you are thinking of unscrewing, parts like the brackets and heat shields can be found at junkyards or on eBay, or you can simply powder coat the existing bracket, I doubt it is rusted to the point of vaporizing.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
02-14-24, 09:21 PM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Hello,
That determination does deserve a round of applause, not a lot of people would be willing to bury half the price of an entire ES into a Catalyst, that said, there are ways to make it less painful.
First of all, OEM is not the only option you can get. There are 2 standards for Catalysts accepted in US - Federal and California Specific, former being applicable to All the states, and the latter is .. well, specific to California, which would automatically make it a lot more stringent. California came up with a list of requirements to accept the state certification, and to have a legal right to sell it, and among those requirements is that it Must be guaranteed to work for at least 5 years after purchase. While not the most cost-efficient option, it will probably be better than OEM in terms of price, and a LOT more solid than most of Federal Certification catalysts out there. Here is a link to an official California database of aftermarket catalysts that are certified to be sold there, which should be a safe bet.
As for the rest of the stuff to replace, here is a Parts Catalogue for your car, which shows all the components and their Part Numbers, though it would be helpful if you would list the Year and Model of your car next time. I would replace all the gaskets, studs and bolts that you are thinking of unscrewing, parts like the brackets and heat shields can be found at junkyards or on eBay, or you can simply powder coat the existing bracket, I doubt it is rusted to the point of vaporizing.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
That determination does deserve a round of applause, not a lot of people would be willing to bury half the price of an entire ES into a Catalyst, that said, there are ways to make it less painful.
First of all, OEM is not the only option you can get. There are 2 standards for Catalysts accepted in US - Federal and California Specific, former being applicable to All the states, and the latter is .. well, specific to California, which would automatically make it a lot more stringent. California came up with a list of requirements to accept the state certification, and to have a legal right to sell it, and among those requirements is that it Must be guaranteed to work for at least 5 years after purchase. While not the most cost-efficient option, it will probably be better than OEM in terms of price, and a LOT more solid than most of Federal Certification catalysts out there. Here is a link to an official California database of aftermarket catalysts that are certified to be sold there, which should be a safe bet.
As for the rest of the stuff to replace, here is a Parts Catalogue for your car, which shows all the components and their Part Numbers, though it would be helpful if you would list the Year and Model of your car next time. I would replace all the gaskets, studs and bolts that you are thinking of unscrewing, parts like the brackets and heat shields can be found at junkyards or on eBay, or you can simply powder coat the existing bracket, I doubt it is rusted to the point of vaporizing.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
02-14-24, 09:27 PM
#5
Lexus Fanatic
$400 is a steal of a deal. Which catalytic exactly are you replacing? For that price I would not bother looking at aftermarket. If you're lucky you can reuse most of the fasteners, generally the studs and nuts on the manifolds how up well, bolts that connect the upstream cats (exhaust manifold) to the rest of the system need replacing.
02-14-24, 11:17 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
$400 is a steal of a deal. Which catalytic exactly are you replacing? For that price I would not bother looking at aftermarket. If you're lucky you can reuse most of the fasteners, generally the studs and nuts on the manifolds how up well, bolts that connect the upstream cats (exhaust manifold) to the rest of the system need replacing.
Last edited by Wiscojoel; 02-15-24 at 06:21 AM.
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LeX2K (02-14-24)
02-14-24, 11:42 PM
#7
Lexus Fanatic
Aftermarket can cost more and they suck. I hate them they never fit properly.
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Wiscojoel (02-15-24)
Trending Topics
02-14-24, 11:44 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
02-15-24, 12:00 AM
#9
Lexus Fanatic
$400 is nothing people pay that for "service" when they bring in their 5 year old Toyota to a dealer.
02-15-24, 05:49 AM
#10
As mentioned, buy the following
Manifold Gasket 17173-20020
Bank 2 Nut, Exhaust Pipe Set Stud Bolt. 90080-17187 Qty 2.
Bolt, Stud Manifold to Exhaust. 90116-10149. Qty 2
Exhaust Pipe Gasket - pipe to Cat. 90917-06089. Qty 2. (for bank 1 & 2)
Note: Toyota wants $14 each. Rocks Auto Felpro. 61039 is $3 + shipping
Optional based on current rust conditions
Bank 1 Bolt, Exhaust pipe to Cat. 90109-10177. Qty 2. These thread into flange Bank 1 Cat/Manifold
If you are removing the Front Exhaust Pipe Assy, get the bolts, nuts & gasket that connect this assy to Center Exhaust Pipe Assy.
Parts Schematics
Cat Manifold
https://www.japan-parts.eu/lexus/us/.../1701_manifold
Manifold Gasket 17173-20020
Bank 2 Nut, Exhaust Pipe Set Stud Bolt. 90080-17187 Qty 2.
Bolt, Stud Manifold to Exhaust. 90116-10149. Qty 2
Exhaust Pipe Gasket - pipe to Cat. 90917-06089. Qty 2. (for bank 1 & 2)
Note: Toyota wants $14 each. Rocks Auto Felpro. 61039 is $3 + shipping
Optional based on current rust conditions
Bank 1 Bolt, Exhaust pipe to Cat. 90109-10177. Qty 2. These thread into flange Bank 1 Cat/Manifold
If you are removing the Front Exhaust Pipe Assy, get the bolts, nuts & gasket that connect this assy to Center Exhaust Pipe Assy.
Parts Schematics
Cat Manifold
https://www.japan-parts.eu/lexus/us/.../1701_manifold
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Wiscojoel (02-15-24)
02-15-24, 06:42 AM
#11
Pole Position
Yeah, that's a really good price for a catalyst, though it is likely because it's a Pre-Cat of the 3-Way System, the main catalyst for my 2000 ES comes as an assembly with the pipe and could run you a small fortune, though I don't think the car can monitor it.
To describe my whole life story, the said luck only come to me if I already have all the replacement parts and ready for all the surprises. When I had to take the Bank 1 Catalyst off to access the CV axle bearing, while all the fasteners *technically* survived, they were so stripped and rounded that I really didn't feel like reusing them, even though my car is from Arizona and has little rust. The bigger issue came from the Locking nuts they use on the studs, as no matter how well I cleaned the stud itself, still ended up gulling the threads. While you should technically be able to get away with it, if you are going through all the trouble, might as well replace the fasteners along the way.
It's actually a little strange for the Catalyst to give out at such mileage, either the car spent a lot of time in the traffic jams, or wasn't warmed up all the way during regular use, causing a lot of raw fuel to end up in the catalyst. Either way, it may be a good idea to check all the Live Parameters to see if maybe it's the sensor that is giving you trouble, and not the Catalyst itself, just something to consider.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Hope this helps and best of luck!
02-15-24, 07:07 AM
#12
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Yeah, that's a really good price for a catalyst, though it is likely because it's a Pre-Cat of the 3-Way System, the main catalyst for my 2000 ES comes as an assembly with the pipe and could run you a small fortune, though I don't think the car can monitor it.
To describe my whole life story, the said luck only come to me if I already have all the replacement parts and ready for all the surprises. When I had to take the Bank 1 Catalyst off to access the CV axle bearing, while all the fasteners *technically* survived, they were so stripped and rounded that I really didn't feel like reusing them, even though my car is from Arizona and has little rust. The bigger issue came from the Locking nuts they use on the studs, as no matter how well I cleaned the stud itself, still ended up gulling the threads. While you should technically be able to get away with it, if you are going through all the trouble, might as well replace the fasteners along the way.
It's actually a little strange for the Catalyst to give out at such mileage, either the car spent a lot of time in the traffic jams, or wasn't warmed up all the way during regular use, causing a lot of raw fuel to end up in the catalyst. Either way, it may be a good idea to check all the Live Parameters to see if maybe it's the sensor that is giving you trouble, and not the Catalyst itself, just something to consider.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
To describe my whole life story, the said luck only come to me if I already have all the replacement parts and ready for all the surprises. When I had to take the Bank 1 Catalyst off to access the CV axle bearing, while all the fasteners *technically* survived, they were so stripped and rounded that I really didn't feel like reusing them, even though my car is from Arizona and has little rust. The bigger issue came from the Locking nuts they use on the studs, as no matter how well I cleaned the stud itself, still ended up gulling the threads. While you should technically be able to get away with it, if you are going through all the trouble, might as well replace the fasteners along the way.
It's actually a little strange for the Catalyst to give out at such mileage, either the car spent a lot of time in the traffic jams, or wasn't warmed up all the way during regular use, causing a lot of raw fuel to end up in the catalyst. Either way, it may be a good idea to check all the Live Parameters to see if maybe it's the sensor that is giving you trouble, and not the Catalyst itself, just something to consider.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
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Wiscojoel (02-16-24)
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