CV Boot Joint/Power Steering Fluid Repairs Necessary?
#1
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CV Boot Joint/Power Steering Fluid Repairs Necessary?
Hi All,
Thanks you to Club Lexus Forum in all its infinite wisdom
The dealer tells me I need to repair the front CV Boot Joint because it is torn, and that the Power Steering Fluid line is leaking. The leak seems slow, so I am not too worried about that, but is it necessary to replace the CV Boot Joint? Will it help me in the long run or to prevent other maintenance?
Thanks
Thanks you to Club Lexus Forum in all its infinite wisdom
The dealer tells me I need to repair the front CV Boot Joint because it is torn, and that the Power Steering Fluid line is leaking. The leak seems slow, so I am not too worried about that, but is it necessary to replace the CV Boot Joint? Will it help me in the long run or to prevent other maintenance?
Thanks
#2
Pole Position
Hello,
It is likely the other way around the Joint Boot, not the Boot Joint.
Hard to tell without actually seeing the boot in question, if the rubber is indeed torn, then yes, I would replace it as quickly as possible, before either the contaminants or simple lack of grease would force you to replace the entire joint.
P.S. It is interesting that the dealership offers to replace just the boot itself, they usually default straight to replacing the entire axle, seems like you stumbled across a pretty fair dealership, that or the boot is completely intact..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
It is likely the other way around the Joint Boot, not the Boot Joint.
Hard to tell without actually seeing the boot in question, if the rubber is indeed torn, then yes, I would replace it as quickly as possible, before either the contaminants or simple lack of grease would force you to replace the entire joint.
P.S. It is interesting that the dealership offers to replace just the boot itself, they usually default straight to replacing the entire axle, seems like you stumbled across a pretty fair dealership, that or the boot is completely intact..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
#3
Rookie
Thread Starter
Hello,
It is likely the other way around the Joint Boot, not the Boot Joint.
Hard to tell without actually seeing the boot in question, if the rubber is indeed torn, then yes, I would replace it as quickly as possible, before either the contaminants or simple lack of grease would force you to replace the entire joint.
P.S. It is interesting that the dealership offers to replace just the boot itself, they usually default straight to replacing the entire axle, seems like you stumbled across a pretty fair dealership, that or the boot is completely intact..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
It is likely the other way around the Joint Boot, not the Boot Joint.
Hard to tell without actually seeing the boot in question, if the rubber is indeed torn, then yes, I would replace it as quickly as possible, before either the contaminants or simple lack of grease would force you to replace the entire joint.
P.S. It is interesting that the dealership offers to replace just the boot itself, they usually default straight to replacing the entire axle, seems like you stumbled across a pretty fair dealership, that or the boot is completely intact..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
They are the boots that connect the axle shaft to the wheels right? Let me include photos here. I did not notice any cracks at all.
Does anyone notice any?
Thanks
#4
Pole Position
The pictures you shared are for the Outer CV Joints, what about the Inner ones? Follow the Axle until you see the same exact joint on the other side of it, and take another picture, it's usually the Inner ones that fail for some reason, likely from exposure to heat from the engine.
P.S. You are also missing the Caps on the Bleeder Screws of your calipers, Part Number for them is 31478-30010, while not as critical in California, it is a good cause of consideration for people less fortunate..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
P.S. You are also missing the Caps on the Bleeder Screws of your calipers, Part Number for them is 31478-30010, while not as critical in California, it is a good cause of consideration for people less fortunate..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Last edited by Arsenii; 02-14-24 at 06:38 PM.
#5
Rookie
Thread Starter
The pictures you shared are for the Outer CV Joints, what about the Inner ones? Follow the Axle until you see the same exact joint on the other side of it, and take another picture, it's usually the Inner ones that fail for some reason, likely from exposure to heat from the engine.
P.S. You are also missing the Caps on the Bleeder Screws of your calipers, Part Number for them is 31478-30010, while not as critical in California, it is a good cause of consideration for people less fortunate..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
P.S. You are also missing the Caps on the Bleeder Screws of your calipers, Part Number for them is 31478-30010, while not as critical in California, it is a good cause of consideration for people less fortunate..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Here are the inner photos
#6
Pole Position
Yep, those are busted alright, at least the Driver's side is, it's hard to tell the condition of the other one due to a leak in the Power Steering line, another common issue for those cars..
Replace those boots before it will cause more issues to appear, they are there for a reason, consider doing both at once even if the other one is intact so far, as it shall soon follow. You are lucky enough to not see any salt, so you won't have any of the pains related to hitting those axles out when they merge into a solid piece with the rest of the suspension.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Replace those boots before it will cause more issues to appear, they are there for a reason, consider doing both at once even if the other one is intact so far, as it shall soon follow. You are lucky enough to not see any salt, so you won't have any of the pains related to hitting those axles out when they merge into a solid piece with the rest of the suspension.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
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jhomer42 (02-14-24)
#7
Rookie
Thread Starter
Yep, those are busted alright, at least the Driver's side is, it's hard to tell the condition of the other one due to a leak in the Power Steering line, another common issue for those cars..
Replace those boots before it will cause more issues to appear, they are there for a reason, consider doing both at once even if the other one is intact so far, as it shall soon follow. You are lucky enough to not see any salt, so you won't have any of the pains related to hitting those axles out when they merge into a solid piece with the rest of the suspension.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Replace those boots before it will cause more issues to appear, they are there for a reason, consider doing both at once even if the other one is intact so far, as it shall soon follow. You are lucky enough to not see any salt, so you won't have any of the pains related to hitting those axles out when they merge into a solid piece with the rest of the suspension.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
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jhomer42 (02-15-24)
#9
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Thread Starter
The dealer told me the boot was torn, but they didn’t mention any axle changes: my thought is they would’ve suggested changing the axle and tried to charge me for that too if they saw reason.
#10
Rookie
Thread Starter
Yep, those are busted alright, at least the Driver's side is, it's hard to tell the condition of the other one due to a leak in the Power Steering line, another common issue for those cars..
Replace those boots before it will cause more issues to appear, they are there for a reason, consider doing both at once even if the other one is intact so far, as it shall soon follow. You are lucky enough to not see any salt, so you won't have any of the pains related to hitting those axles out when they merge into a solid piece with the rest of the suspension.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Replace those boots before it will cause more issues to appear, they are there for a reason, consider doing both at once even if the other one is intact so far, as it shall soon follow. You are lucky enough to not see any salt, so you won't have any of the pains related to hitting those axles out when they merge into a solid piece with the rest of the suspension.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Thanks
#11
Yeah, pretty sure that’s what he means. if one side has gone, the other is likely near it due to age and use. A big enough job and the parts cheap enough, you do both. I just did that in fact doing that on my step-son’s Volvo. Inner one tore, but I am changing both boots. Caught it early so no damage, re-using OE axle.
IME it is far better to re-boot an OE axle as long as it is still good vs. getting aftermarket replacements. Much higher quality and longer-lasting. So if your mechanic said “re-boot,” then it’s the smarter play.
IME it is far better to re-boot an OE axle as long as it is still good vs. getting aftermarket replacements. Much higher quality and longer-lasting. So if your mechanic said “re-boot,” then it’s the smarter play.
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jhomer42 (02-15-24)
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