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This is the green one and the other one is missing but the plug for it is brownish..both plugs (green&brown) are keyed differently…vac diagram from online for the 3vz-fe show them as vsv’s .I see the green ones listed for sale as 90910-12080…but haven’t seen brown one listed ..any knowledge of these?Thanks for anyone help …
The blue one on the right is necessary to increase fuel pressure during start up when the engine is hot.
The missing red VSV is supposed to open the ACIS valve inside the upper inlet manifold.
It makes use of a vacuum tank which sits down low near the left front head light.
I personally have two new VSVs, I bought them from the Middle East a few years back but almost certainly you can get a good condition 2nd had blue easy enough from eBay.
The light blue VSV was used on every car in the world which used a 3VZ-FE - they're very common.
The missing red VSV is not really necessary. I personally zip tied my ACIS valve permanently in the open position.
I didn't notice one bit of performance loss down low, but the engine definitely felt more frisky from 3000 rpm and up.
Which is ironic considering I went through all the effort to buy two new VSVs.
The vacuum line which runs from the upper inlet manifold to the vacuum tank becomes redundant if you zip tie the ACIS valve permanently open.
From a purists perspective we're not supposed to do that, but it's way less error prone if we do.
Here's the official vacuum diagram which still lives inside my hood.
This is what the vacuum lines are "supposed to look like". I could have bought new connectors and repinned the wiring but it wasn't necessary.
Here's a shot of the black zip tie location to put the ACIS valve permanently in open position.
It simply doesn't need the vacuum line which is controlled by the red VSV via the vacuum tank. The reason? It opens too late in the rev range. And it's prone to vacuum leaks etc..
Here's a shot of the two VSVs AFTER I disconnected the red VSV. You'll not how the vacuum lines are supposed to run for the blue VSV. It plays a useful role on hot starts.
Ok thanks,I better understand,why my red/brown vsv is missing .I really appreciate all the information you’ve shared with me .I’m in the process of cleaning everything up ,and beginning the process of putting things back together..if I have any questions I’ll repost …I’m sure I’ll have more questions 🤣.Thank you so much !
OK, I removed both Cylinder heads,lower and upper intake and all associated peripheral parts.Found blown head gasket on number 2 head,Cylinder five and six .I’ve done all the work /cleanup etc…Is there a write up somewhere, step by step, on setting up the cams, to crankshaft timing.? Thanks for all the information, everybody’s been great, I’m an old timer and I don’t turn wrench’s that much anymore…
Specifically, the information you're wanting starts at Page EG-29.
A heads up - after you've put it all back together, when the moment arrives to adjust the timing on your Distributor?
To get a true reading on your timing light your MUST put your engine computer into "diagnostic mode" - which is achieved by jumping pins TE1 and E1 in the diagnostics port.
The reason for this is the computer "locks" the timing specifically so that YOU can adjust the distributor.
If you don't jump those pins the computer remains free to play with the ignition timing and it does so the moment your revs change in any manner.
Most of us here recommend (from experience) a timing mark around -15 degrees BTDC, the factory says -10 degrees.
Some people go as far as -17 degrees but you're on the verge of pinging if you do that.
You only need to move the distributor perhaps 2-3mm. Clockwise to advance if I recall.
OK guys, can someone tell me what the rear wiring harness attaches to? There are two mounting holes where it crosses behind the rear head… Any help would be appreciated, I know where the harness attaches behind the timing cover but I can’t for the life of me remember where it attaches between the firewall and the rear head… Thanks
In the absence of a photo perhaps it's the connection to the variable pressure solenoid on the power steering pump or perhaps the rear O2 sensor.
A photo will help for sure.
i’ll try to get a photo this afternoon, what I’m speaking about though is the wiring harness itself has a somewhat square plastic housing around it as it crosses from the front of the engine around to the rear of the engine. Being a transverse engine mount, it’s actually passing from the passenger side to the driver side. I’m not speaking of actual connection to a sensor, just where the harness is held in place along the area between the firewall in the head etc. that squarish plastic protection housing, has two holes to fasten it to something, one hole is larger than the other…
04-26-24, 12:59 PM
