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OK guys, girl, I’ve been given an ES 300 that skipping. Previous owner says there was unexplained coolant loss. I know that means most likely head gasket failure. where should I start? The old girls got 170 K on her. I own/have a personal shop, but is this engine worth the headache, Knowing it’s transverse and slanted in the rear. The car is in beautiful condition, not beaten up, and was told these we’re great driving cars etc.But Jesus, the amount vacuum tubing and gadgets all over those engines are giving me pause… Thanks for any help. If attempted I will definitely be here often… L O L thank you for all you guys do!
Nice to see another 92 ES300 still going. They're terrific cars.
Firstly, most of the vacuum hoses are involved with (a) the vacuum tank which gets used (poorly) by the variable length intake system in the upper plenum and (b) the EGR analog valve system.
Secondly, if you're interested in doing it, disconnecting the vacuum hoses to the vacuum switching valve which drives the variable length intake (ACIS) system can be removed and it's OK to zip tie the pivot mechanism permanently in the open position because the original system kicks in way too late in the rev range. Ask me more questions later about that if you want. Let's focus on the priorities for now.
Thirdly, I blocked off my EGR system with a custom plate, and I removed the myriad of vacuum hoses from the top of the plenum to the EGR mechanism. I replaced them with 5mm caps to prevent vacuum leaks. As a result, zero exhaust gases enter the inlet manifold now. Technically a no no here in Australia but mandated road worthy tests don't happen down here. I could always put the vacuum hoses back in place for appearance reasons - but the EGR system has a permanent plate blocking exhaust into the manifold AND I blocked off the exit point on the rear exhaust manifold with a brass bolt in bung. Which, in turn, allowed me to remove the crazy annoying EGR pipe which originally ran from the rear exhaust manifold to the back of the inlet plenum. And THAT allows me to change the rear spark plugs any time I want without having to remove anything.
Now, all that said... your car is definitely worth the trouble. The 3VZ-FE engine is basically a bullet proof engine so long as you look after all the external ancillaries.
When it comes to checking the ignition timing you must ensure the car is in "diagnostic mode" which locks the ignition timing at a fixed 5 degrees after top dead center. That's the ONLY timing indicator you can trust. After that you can advance the distributor - not by much - maybe a mere 2 or 3 mm. Ask us about that later.
Getting the suspension in fine working order is not too hard. In my case I installed Nolathane bushings in every possible location in the suspension, I rebuilt all 4 corners with KYB Excel-G dampers, new springs (original height), new swing arms front and rear, new ABS sensors, new cross drilled rotors, and refurbished calipers with carbon disc pads. and voila... new car handling better than original.
It's possible for a 92 ES300 to pull quite hard and drive with excellent handling manners. Not Porsche GT3RS standards obviously, but surprisingly well for a 32 year old car.
I have other cars and motorbikes but my Lexus is a car I've owned since new. I'm astonished by how creak free (and rattle free) it is after all these years.
Looking after the leather is a bit of an art, and you simply have to accept your ECU is going to need the capacitors replaced - right now. Ask us about that later.
The po told me he also loved the car…I will definitely be back with questions eventually.yeah it’s seems to be a very solid car ,although the leather has failed ,I will be covering them.The car will be given to my granddaughter as a first car..Thanks for the reply and please stay tuned !
Found blown head gasket as expected,I’ve removed the front head ,in process of going after rear ,few questions,1..can rear head be pulled without removing exhaust manifold,ie just the connection at exhaust.?2..should I move wiring harness (at rear) up and over head towards valley or move it down toward the block?also any tips on removing cam pulley bolt from rear head? Zipped front one off with air tool but no room for that on back head…Thanks everyone!
Replacing HGs with the engine in place makes the job much harder I don't recommend it. It is critical the head bolt threads in block are 100% clean not doing this will result in a failed repair. Head bolts CAN be reused but the threads have to be in perfect shape any corrosion or general damage means they are scrap.
Replacing HGs with the engine in place makes the job much harder I don't recommend it. It is critical the head bolt threads in block are 100% clean not doing this will result in a failed repair. Head bolts CAN be reused but the threads have to be in perfect shape any corrosion or general damage means they are scrap.
gotcha ,,ok ,II had read that the Mahle /clevite set was acceptable .I appreciate the advice .What knock sensors do you recommend? I will also be replacing the sensor wires.. all head bolts appear to be fine ,what’s the consensus on reusing these head bolts? I appreciate the seasoned advice!
I've reused head bolts many times without issue but there is still a risk. Knock senors HAVE to be OEM or you'll be doing the job again. 82219-33010 knock sensor harness is available aftermarket not sure on quality.
If you have a hoist I'd recommend detaching the exhaust (with manifolds attached) north of the catalytic converter.
Definitely replace the knock sensors while you have access, and if your budget allows it, walnut blast the upper and lower inlet manifolds.
Here are some shots from 2019 when I dropped my engine to get super access for a complete overhaul of every possible external accessory.
Perhaps these photos will give you some help knowing what goes where.
In the first shot you'll see that godawful EGR pipe which runs from the rear exhaust manifold to the upper plenum.
You can block off the EGR input hole on the plenum with a 2" x 1" aluminium plate, remove the pipe, and block off the exhaust manifold with a matching plumbing bung.
Trust me, it will make your life so much nice in the future if you need to change plugs etc.
I also strongly recommend a set of new valve cover seals. They're infamous for leaking at the rear head in the worst possible place.
It's a skill determined by knowledge as much as hand skills.
I’ve decided to keep EGR system for now I have a question about the vsv’s attached near the fuel rail ..one is green and one is missing .However while researching I see some are gold brown color ,the gold one is missing from this engine and both lines are plugged and connectors unplugged..the gold connector will not plug into the green vsv .. what am I missing..I only see green ones for sale etc..Thanks
04-15-24, 07:01 AM
92 es 300 v6 skipping
