T24Mot

Looking for help I have 2001 Lexus ES300. Someone tried to steal it and dug out the ignition lock cylinder. So I actually got it started to where it stayed running for like 30 minutes and then I cut it off, the key will not stay in ignition but it stayed running. However every other time I have tried to start it it will just start and go dead while I’m holding the key in. Wondering if there’s any trick to getting it to start and stay on,until I can order the new cylinder and everything.Like I said I have the key and immobilizer. Thanks!

Arsenii

Hello,

A picture of the damage would be helpful.

If the car starts at all, then the Immobilizer is working, all I can think of, if it is indeed related to the Ignition Lock, is a contact being lost somewhere. As a temporary fix, you can take the entire Ignition Lock Cylinder out and use pliers to start the car for the time being, but again, hard to tell anything without seeing it..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

T24Mot

Hey thank you so much and I will send a picture I have now removed the cylinder and gonna see if it’ll start and stay running. Another question you maybe be able to answer.. If I change out the cylinder I’ll have a new key but if I was to switch the insides of the key generally speaking it should work right?



This has to clipped on right or it won’t start at all just crank but if this is on and my key is in the right place it will start for a minute and die, prior to me removing the cylinder. I haven’t tried to start it since removing, I will update the post after I do. Thank you so much for helping

Arsenii

Yes, if you swap the Old transponder into your New key, the car should start.

The black ring you were referring to is the Reader Coil that reads the signal from the Transponder, without it, the Immobilizer won't allow the engine to start, as it won't see the signal from the Transponder. To start the car with pliers, you will have to have the key near that coil.

That said, after the Ignition is turned to the On position, the Immobilizer stops requesting the information from the key, as it already made a decision on whether to allow the engine to start or not, meaning that you need to keep the key near a coil only until you turn the Ignition to the On position, afterwards the car should start even if you remove the key completely. All that is to say that even if the key moves away from the coil, it should not make the car stall, there is something else at play.

P.S. What a carnage for an arguably pointless endeavor, what is the point to stealing a 23 year old car is beyond my understanding.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

T24Mot

Hello, again not sure if you’ll see this but if you do, I need some advice you may be able to help. So I ordered a new OEM Ignition off of partsouq, but it came with the regular keys with no way to switch the inside of the key and also that black ring will not fit back on the new ignition. I have came to the conclusion that it must of threw a code when they tried to start it without out the key in range (if that is even a thing). But my question is would a pro locksmith be able to reset it and program a new key since I do still have the original key, or would I have to go to a dealership? It is simply not getting fuel when I stArt it because when I mash the gas it will stay going but as soon as I let off it it dies(car was in perfect running condition before)

T24Mot

After installing the ignition even with the regular key it still will not stay running without giving it gas(Car ran like a gem prior to this so nothing mechanical I’m sure). I’m just wondering is it possible the battery is bad in my key, or is there some way it sent a code to the computer to keep it from starting when they tried starting it with no key. And is there anyway to attempt to reset it without a dealership. Thanks

Arsenii

As stated before, Neither the Key, nor the Immobilizer System in general have anything to do with it stalling over time, Immobilizer shuts of Both Injectors and Ignition, the car will not start at all, no matter how hard you press the Gas Pedal. More than that, the Immobilizer inquires about the key only Once, when you turn the Ignition to the On position, after that, you can throw the key out the window and the car will keep running, just like the Push to Start cars.


We have no idea what happened under the hood of a car, so there is no way to eliminate a Mechanical Flaw at the moment. Get a Scan Tool and check Engine Live Data to see how the engine runs in general, and what causes it to stall, check both Long and Short Term Fuel Trims (LTFT & STFT), MAF Sensor Readouts and Ignition Advance, LTFT & STFT should be as close to 0 as possible, MAF should show about 3.5 - 4g/s, if it is Less, you have a Vacuum Leak, Ignition Timing should be 10 or 15 degrees at Idle. Start from there and see where it goes.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

T24Mot

So I talked to a mechanic and am gonna bring it to him just wanted to update. So after actually getting the correct ignition(first one was not right)I changed out the insides of the keys. So after doing that now when I put my key in the ignition it will turn the flashing security light off. So the mechanic says ir sounds like something as simple as hooking it up and resting the codes to let it know everything is back to normal not positive but he says from everything explained sounds like it. That’s what I’m praying for as well. But I wanted to thank you for all of your help and responses it helped me narrow stuff down and explain to the mechanic my situation better.