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How does the car start immediately after it Stalls? YES
Does it mean the car starts up immediately and with no hitches or stutters?
Originally Posted by Joe1994ES300
Does the car stall Only when it's sitting at Idle, or when you are going somewhere as well? BOTH
Just to clarify it a bit more, there was a point at which the car stalled while you were Holding the Throttle?
Originally Posted by Joe1994ES300
...when I did mention I had the transmission code he said could be the torque converter is locking up so he'll check that out next week...
P0753 that you listed earlier is a pretty specific code, which has a pretty clear logic of triggering when it Senses a change in Resistance of the Shift Solenoid. Toyotas can be cavalier about which code to trigger when it senses a malfunction, but I think that it's not one of those cases, if nothing else it's a starting point that is pretty easy to check before starting to tear deeper into the transmission than may be necessary.
Originally Posted by Joe1994ES300
...how can i ck the large wire coming off the positive battery terminal, i scraped a green spot off the darkened copper, could that be a coroded wire, will a multimeter tell me anything?
From the answers you gave, I really doubt it's the power issue, none of the lights are affected at all by it, and for the engine to actually stall, you will have to have power removed for long enough to notice the lights turn Off and then back On, not to mention that the car likely wouldn't start right back up on every single occasion if it were to be a power loss, especially if it was a Battery loosing Contact.
Originally Posted by Joe1994ES300
My Bluedriver scanner on live data for the MAF RATE was -5.33 and -5.50, are those normal readings?
Are you sure the readings were Negative values? Aside from that, those numbers do seem a lot higher than usual, it should be about 3.5 - 4.2g/sec at most when the car is Stationary and at Idle (700 - 900RPM). The engine can't physically "breathe" in more air than it's capable of, something like this usually indicates an issue with either the ECU or the MAF sensor itself. Recheck the values you got in case if the readings were bogus, if they are still the same, you will likely have to either check the Voltage Output of the existing MAF, or locate a replacement that you can hook up for a test to see if it's the MAF providing faulty readings, or it's how ECU interprets the Voltage it receives.
Is it ok for fuel pump relay to be missing, also replaced dirty air filter
I thought I'd check the relays and fuses close to the air filter and I noticed one slot marked fuel pump was empty maybe that's just the design on my particular car and the fuel pump relay is elsewhere, See picture, I'll start the car and move it around and it's parking place to see if the new DENSO air filter helps the stalling issue. Car always starts fine and runs for 5 minutes to an hour+ b4 stalling so my guess is the fuel pump relay is elsewhere
Last edited by Joe1994ES300; 06-07-24 at 08:08 AM.
Reason: Update
...I noticed one slot marked fuel pump was empty maybe that's just the design on my particular car and the fuel pump relay is elsewhere
The Fuel Pump in your car is triggered by the Circuit Opening Relay, not the Fuel Pump Relay, the latter is not marked on any of the diagrams, and in all the pictures I found for those Fuse Boxes, said relay is missing as well, so it is safe to assume that it was just an extra slot.
New air filter now no stall but new p1300 code power drops with acceleration
It also has the P0753 since sept 2023, now the car hesitates when i make an avg or hard acceleration. Maybe i jiggled a wire when putting in new air filter?
First of all, try Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to clear out the codes, see if it returns.
P1300 indicates that one of the Coils doesn't produce the Return Signal to the ECU. There is an Input to the Igniter from the ECU (Pin IGT), and then there is a Return from the Coil to the Igniter, and then back to the ECU after the spark has fired (Pin IGF). This code means that after the ECU sent signal to Pin IGT, it never got a response on Pin IGF.
This could be several things - one of the Coils doesn't spark, the Igniter is failing to output a Confirmation Signal, or the ECU is failing to listen to it. It seems like you have 1MZ engine that has Separate coils for each cylinder, if it were to be a Coil, you would also get a Misfire code, which you don't have, but still might as well check the connections to all the Coils. If that's good, it will leave us with just the Igniter Circuit, try reseating the connector for the Igniter, here is a Parts Catalogue showing its location, Part Number is 89621-33020 (RIP japan-parts.eu), if that doesn't help, you will have to gain access to the ECU and check the Output of the Return Signal with an Oscilloscope.
Drove 3 days no stalling, fuel regular non ethynol or premium better?Or possibly unbranded regular? I switched from that when stalling started, now running non ethynol regular, non Also stalling issue may have been helped by new air filter , cleaning the battery terminals and putting seafoam in the gas tank, the manual does call premium.
I got a good reference on a transmission shop so they're gonna see if no bad chunks of metal in pan b4 installing a new solenoid so I might get out 4 $500 for a new filter and solonoid parts and labor or I said if I did need a reman or rebuilt it would probably run between 3k and 4000.
06-04-24, 07:40 PM
