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Stalls sometimes when i slow up, 94 ES300, 47K MILES,HOW TO UNDO FASTNER, PIC, ON PLA
SEE PIC, HOW TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC ENGINE COVER. SEE PIC OF FASTENER, No check engine light but my blue driver scanner does show a shift solenoid A Electrical, see my efforts at the end of post, I read on the forums it can be everything from a crank sensor to an ERG valve to THE idle control valve to to a leak in the air tube intake intake so lots of things to check, think I'll start out with some sea foam in the gas tank and I have been running regular rather than the called for premium so I'll run a tank a premium through, i hear the fuel pump pressuring up under the back seat, I wondered just to check to see if I get a squirt Or a dribble on the shredder valve for the fuel rail what type of socket takes the plastic engine cover off, pic attached?
The shift solernoid A transmission check engine light comes on and off I haveput new fluid in the transmission ,DEX MEC, an attempted to unvarnish sticky solenoid with some Berriman's B12 and that code comes and goes, All the time in drive I don't seem to have first gear , it spins, struggles up to second but manually I can get first gear if i need to rapidly move off a stop sign or Stoplight, i wonder if the stalling might be related to the PO753 solenoid A Electrical code or more fuel, air or ignition related, i will ck fuses and research how to ck relays, just added Seafoam to tank, started car, went to 1800 rpm at idle and engine stalled at 26 seconds, i read i can computer reset by idling at 2000 rpm for one minute, place in drive, then to park. I tried gassing it up to 2000 for two minutes then thought i would try in drive at idle for a minute of two but it stalled at about 50 seconds in drive. Which seemed to simulate whst it was doing while driving(stalling when reaching low rpms)Any ideas? I have a Lexus repair manual and a Haynes Toyota manual, i will research both of those.
Last edited by Joe1994ES300; 05-19-24 at 11:00 AM.
Reason: Update
I wondered just to check to see if I get a squirt Or a dribble on the shredder valve for the fuel rail what type of socket takes the plastic engine cover off, pic attached?
On my '95 that takes a 3/16 hex (or for us old guys "allen" I do not have a 5 mm but that would be the correct one ???
Before you go looking for the schader valve on the fuel rail..... Mine does not have one... Do not think they put that on the old 1MZ FE
PS Just found a metric set with a 5.5 mm I do not know if that would be the best choice The 3/16 (5mm) seems to have a little play...
Thanks, i ll spray w pb blaster and try my allen wrenches
Do u have have a link for tge 5.5 if i think i need something bigger? Thanks! If the Schrader valve is not on the fuel rail any idea how I would check the fuel pump I'm hearing it coming on but I realized it could be getting weak and just failing at low rpms in idle or drive. I was thinking about seeing if the RPMS would not stall if I try it with my foot on the brake And the transmission in 2nd gear unless that's something that might hurt the transmission, I already tried it in drive with my foot on the brake and emergency brake in drive and rpms dropped from idle to 0 rpm after about 50 seconds, it's stalled out simulating what happened on the road
Can confirm, it is a 5mm Internal Hex bit, used the same as with any other nut or bolt, turned counter-clockwise to unscrew. With that, I usually tend to use Torx T30 bit, no apparent reason aside from it being the same for the Door Locks and the Airbag, so I somehow always end up having it on me, though a fair warning, stripping those out is quite easy, and not fun to get over.
With that, now that I look at it, seems like that ship has sailed for you, if that's the case, try hammering in a T32 or similar Torx bit in there, making sure to align it properly, if it doesn't fit, you will have to drill out the remainder if the internal hex just a tiny bit, with any luck, it should offer enough grip to get it out, so long as you are careful, if you snap that bit in there, it's Game Over.
I have a pretty ... difficult relation with solenoids, as I've ran into similar issues before, only with a VVT-i solenoid instead, here is a link. Either way, it seems like you will need to drop the pan and inspect it closer, otherwise it may be very difficult to predict when it would decide to lose contact, like what happened in my case, and even if it is jammed, there is very little chance it will magically unjam itself.
Can you make a video of the car stalling? It's a little hard to tell what exactly happens, is it immediate, or it takes a while for the car to stall, is there anything you can do to prevent it from stalling, is it only happening when you release the gas pedal, or it stalls regardless, etc., a video would be helpful. First thing to do would probably be to connect a Scan Tool and watch the Live Data closely as the car stalls, mainly the Short Term Fuel Trims, Ignition Advance and MAF sensor, you may need to do them separately, as the more parameters you read out, the longer the delay is, you may miss the actual moment of a stall. Once there is a clearer picture we can go from there.
Here is the item I can not seem to make a link Amazon Hex-Bit-Set-Metric-Rail
I wonder if a reverse drill and extractor would work... If you break off the Hex bit ???
I had the same issue with my fuel pump.... I thought. Turned out not to be the fuel pump at all... I hope you do not end up down the rabbit hole I was in on that...
I bring this up because I am not sure of the dates of the items changed.. My camshaft sensor was leaking oil from inside the engine INTO the sensor past the o ring and there was oil inside with the wire connectors.. I had some strange issues with the way the car ran, stalled etc. and even the gear that it would drive in. I replaced the sensor several times until I got one that did not leak... I also about the same time decided to change the pcv valve.. I thought it might be plugged and saw some oil around the grommet. So that was an easy change for a few bucks... What I DO NOT KNOW is if the pcv valve was plugged and caused higher manifold pressure that caused the cam sensors to leak ????? Check to see if there is any oil inside the connector to the cam sensor...
After the above she ran ok for awhile and then it started up fine and would be good for a few miles and stall out completely. The first time, I did not even have my phone with me... After looking around and not seeing anything I tried to restart... Started right up and I went home..
That happened several times until Ivan had a video about a crossfire doing the same thing.. Crankshaft position sensor...."There is your problem lady" https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...k-a-relay.html picture in post 5 shows what it looked like when I got it out...
I m gonna have to digest this with small bites. I was hoping a Lexus would be trouble free but even though low mkles, 47K since a 1994 thats 29 yrs! So got to expect some issues.
My bluedriver scanner does live data so i ll play with it
I ll see if it stalls in 2nd gear, park, low i know it already stalls in Drive at idle speed
Originally Posted by Arsenii
Hello,
Boy it took me a while to get here...
Can confirm, it is a 5mm Internal Hex bit, used the same as with any other nut or bolt, turned counter-clockwise to unscrew. With that, I usually tend to use Torx T30 bit, no apparent reason aside from it being the same for the Door Locks and the Airbag, so I somehow always end up having it on me, though a fair warning, stripping those out is quite easy, and not fun to get over.
With that, now that I look at it, seems like that ship has sailed for you, if that's the case, try hammering in a T32 or similar Torx bit in there, making sure to align it properly, if it doesn't fit, you will have to drill out the remainder if the internal hex just a tiny bit, with any luck, it should offer enough grip to get it out, so long as you are careful, if you snap that bit in there, it's Game Over.
I have a pretty ... difficult relation with solenoids, as I've ran into similar issues before, only with a VVT-i solenoid instead, here is a link. Either way, it seems like you will need to drop the pan and inspect it closer, otherwise it may be very difficult to predict when it would decide to lose contact, like what happened in my case, and even if it is jammed, there is very little chance it will magically unjam itself.
Can you make a video of the car stalling? It's a little hard to tell what exactly happens, is it immediate, or it takes a while for the car to stall, is there anything you can do to prevent it from stalling, is it only happening when you release the gas pedal, or it stalls regardless, etc., a video would be helpful. First thing to do would probably be to connect a Scan Tool and watch the Live Data closely as the car stalls, mainly the Short Term Fuel Trims, Ignition Advance and MAF sensor, you may need to do them separately, as the more parameters you read out, the longer the delay is, you may miss the actual moment of a stall. Once there is a clearer picture we can go from there.
I wonder if a reverse drill and extractor would work... If you break off the Hex bit ???
Nope, like mentioned previously, if you snap a bit in the socket, unless by miracle that bit gets dislodged and falls out, you won't have a fun time. The bits are hardened and a regular Drill Bit won't be cutting it, ask me how I know that, same goes for the Extractor, if it snaps inside the fastener and you can't pull it out, that fastener is there for good.
Originally Posted by Lexanna
What I DO NOT KNOW is if the pcv valve was plugged and caused higher manifold pressure that caused the cam sensors to leak ?????
That case is still very much baffling to me, as your car somehow managed to spit out two of the most durable sensors in the whole car, it's very rare for any of them to fail unless they are already aftermarket, as there is nothing in them to really fail..
The theory of a Blocked PCV valve is a very true possibility, it can do a lot of damage, up to wrecking the entire engine actually, as the Vapor can reach a great amount of pressure inside of the Engine Block if there is no way for it to escape, so you are very lucky to get away with just a few blown seals. That's actually why I suggest replacing the PCV valve every 4 - 5 oil changes, it is cheap enough of an insurance.
I idled and put it in low drive reverse and park for an hour, no stall, maybe electrical glitch at terminal cables, maybe the seafoam i put in gas tank is cleaning some internal sensors? Only code still the shift solenoid "A" Electrical. Then i drove it around the cul de sac for ten minutes, cut it off and drove it another 5 min, all normal but I m dizzy, lol. I ll wait an hour and see if doesnt stall from a cold start.
Still stalling after 8 or 9 minute idle, tranny in P,R,L,2ND,D
How do I check if I have that green black wire disease going from the battery terminals to battery cables/wires? I did notice a green speck which I scraped off on the top of The Wire from the positive terminal(pic in nx post), cleaned battery terminals real good, they were very clean already, Interstate battery installed last spring, 12V+ multimeter ck amd alternator 14V+, spraying carb cleaner around air intake tube didnt indicate any breaks in air tube,car idles longer b4 stalling around 9 minutes, even though once after battery terminals off for 45 min i idled and ran car around the cul de sac for an hour b4 it stalled. Maybe seafoam i added in tank helping, nx i ll ck air filter and see if throttle body looks dirty, i ll inspect spark plugs, is there a way to test the ignion coils? and sensors like MAF and MAP, idle air control, throttle position sensor? If i dont see a schaeder valve on fuel rail, is there an adapter in the free auto parts store that will allow me to ck the fuel pressure to verify good fuel pump pressure by tapping into the fuel line pre and post fuel filter as i saw Eric the Car Guy do on utube? car starts fine after it stalls, fuel filter might be a good item to replace? Could PVC Valve cause stalling? Car starts and runs smoothly otherwise, i have been running unbranded regular gas, maybe i should try the unbranded or branded premium or maybe even expensive non ethanol regular, non ethanol premium not avail, I have been trying to think of all the fuel, spark/ignition, air items i can think to ck b4 takjng to a highly reviewed and recommended import shop. I know one of the reviewers. Calif car new to me for nine months, just 47k miles, carfax indicated good maintenance, car very clean under hood but that could be an engine steam clean. I ll add pic of old looking wires from battery terminals to car.
Last edited by Joe1994ES300; 06-01-24 at 02:23 AM.
Reason: Update
Added pic of older wires from battery terminals to car
Pic below, scraped a green speck off wire from positive terminal. Copper wire was dark brown with green speck b4 i cleaned exposed copper with a wire brush
Last edited by Joe1994ES300; 06-01-24 at 02:20 AM.
Reason: Update
Once the engine is Started, the battery doesn't play as much of a role in keeping it running, the Alternator creates its own circuit with the B+ terminal being the new Positive, and the entire Engine as a new Negative. Either way, if it's still a concern, an easy way to find out whether it's the 12V that kills the engine would be to connect one lead of a Multimeter to the Chassis Ground, and the other to Pin 16 of the OBD2 Connector, which is Constant 12V, the power will have to be gone for a noticeable while before engine stalls, so you will be able to see it, so long as you watch the multimeter closely.
Other thing is that it was still ever stated how exactly the car stalls, is it abrupt and completely out of the blue, or it struggles for a bit, what happens if you drive the car for the entire time, or at least hold the throttle a little open at all times? Try unplugging the Idle Air Control Valve for the time being, see what happens. It has a Fail-Safe bimetallic spring built in, it can change its shape as it heats up, turning the Shaft of an IAC Valve, hence even if the Idle Speed will be higher than normal, it should still function normally.
It's probably as good a time as any to get an OBD2 Scan Tool and watch the Engine Live Data as well, see what numbers you get in general to verify that the engine is indeed running good before it stalls, then select Short Term Fuel Trims for Both Banks and wait until it stalls, don't select anything else yet as it will cause more delay between the updates. Other than that, the Scan Tool will get disconnected if the power is suddenly lost, as another indicator of an Electrical Issue.
Using multimeter to see if 12volts is killing engine
Multimeter Connected at chassis ground port 16 at OBS if 12 volts on MM does drop off b4 stall, what does that indicate mean the problem areas might be? If 12V stays up b4 stall. Would that mean good ignition and look more towards air fuel problems. I read the ECU capacitors can go bad, do i look for swollen capacitors of a multimer reading at ecu, power on-unstarted?or off? Or with car running? So it sounds like disconnecting the idle air control is a work around to keep it running if i considered delivering to an out of state repair shop, yikes 11hr drive but shop just did the same model car with similar issue(youtube in nx reply), using hard to find original OE parts. It was an IAC part and some ECU repairs but after i attempt to ck fuel pressure(starts fine but stalls sometimes after 8min to 1hr running at idle in park and in gear going around the cul de sac). Local import shop has a 5.0 reviews(link nx post,) and i know one guy who left a review if i just get overwhelmed, i m in greenboro. NC, I have looked at live data with my BLUEDRIVER bluetooth scanner but i eill have to study how to understsnd the readings https://youtu.be/uJr5uOZaWS4?si=rqYxKNCqngXAkIK6
leonard imports reviews https://g.co/kgs/tW4DmaA
Last edited by Joe1994ES300; 06-03-24 at 03:01 PM.
Reason: Add link
The issue is that the approach is a bit backwards, instead of trying to inspect each common fault point, it would be helpful to go from the other end and keep narrowing down the amount of possible faults to cause this issue. For example the IAC Valve, there is a suspicion that it may be jammed or misconfigured, causing it to close too far as the engine warms up, to see if that's the thing, you can Disconnect the Wiring coming to it and let it run with a Backup Mechanical Spring and see if the issue repeats itself in the same exact manner.
The idea is instead of trying to attribute cause to any possible fault, you go from the other end and find the fault that causes the issue.
Let's start from the beginning:
How does the car start immediately after it Stalls?
Does the car run well aside from the occasional stalling?
Does the car stall Only when it's sitting at Idle, or when you are going somewhere as well?
How exactly does the car stall, is it running in one moment and dead in the other, or it takes time to stall?
Do any of the lights switch Off or Flicker at all when the car stalls, especially the lights on the Instrument Cluster?
Is the time from Starting the engine to it Stalling more or less the same, or always varies, if so, what causes the change?
A video of the car stalling would be quite helpful as well, as the list of questions gets bigger and bigger.
Answers to the questions Lets Start From the Beginning
Let's start from the beginning: How does the car start immediately after it Stalls? YESDoes the car run well aside from the occasional stalling? PERFECTLY LOL ISNT THST FRUSTRATING!Does the car stall Only when it's sitting at Idle, or when you are going somewhere as well? BOTHHow exactly does the car stall, is it running in one moment and dead in the other, or it takes time to stall? RPM DROPS TO ZERO LIKE THE BOTTOM FELL OUT, LOLDo any of the lights switch Off or Flicker at all when the car stalls, especially the lights on the Instrument Cluster? NOT REALLY BUT OCCASIONALLY I HAVE HEARD AND FELT SND ERATIC SURGE HICKUP, NOT OFTEN THOUGH, MAYBE A QUICK FLUTTER OF LIGHTS ON INSTRUMT CLUSTERIs the time from Starting the engine to it Stalling more or less the same, or always varies, if so, what causes the change? IT VARIES, STARTED OUT STALLING AFTER IDLING FOR 4 TO 7 MINUTES, ADDED SEAFOAM TO GAS TANK, NEG BATTERYOFF FOR 40 MIN THEN RAN , TX SHIFT SOLENOID CODE BACK ON AFTER 10 MIN, LEFT IN IDLE AND PUT IN D, R. ,2, LOW GEAR AND STALLED AT 64 MIN, NO STALL RESTARTED DROVE AROUND CUL DE SAC FOR 10 MIN NO STALL AND TURNED OFF, RESTARTED RAN FOR ANOTHER 5 MIN AND STALLED, A video of the car stalling would be quite helpful as well, as the list of questions gets bigger and bigger. ( I will video it next time I start up) Hope this helps and best of luck!
I stopped by the excellent reviewed import shop Leonard imports and he felt like he could fix it when I did mention I had the transmission code he said could be the torque converter is locking up so he'll check that out next week in the meantime I'll i'll do what I can, how can i ck the large wire coming off the positive battery terminal, i scraped a green spot off the darkened copper, could that be a coroded wire, will a multimeter tell me anything? My Bluedriver scanner on live data for the MAF RATE was -5.33 and -5.50, are those normal readings?
05-19-24, 09:45 AM
Stalls sometimes when i slow up, 94 ES300, 47K MILES,HOW TO UNDO FASTNER, PIC, ON PLA
