mburnickas

Buster - You do not have to wait till a break in period is complete. You can add synthetic oil ASAP. All that will happen is that you might get more oil consumption due to the rings not seating quickly. Who cares when the protection out-weights the 1/8 oil consumption.

Lastly, you maybe correct about Mobil not being better or worse then Amsoil. Hell, I do not care what you use. I have used Mobil 1 in the past and the oil results we good but Amsoil was/is better. Plus since Mobil 1 STOPPED doing extended drains, for their price, it is not a feasible choice I feel for using the standard 7,000 mile drains. Waste of money and time I feel. I am going to pay some $3.0+ for a qt of oil and drain it that quick! No way.

Oh---Also a response to your last post. I never stated not to change the filter. The filters are the key but you can leave the oil in much longer. My gsxr1100 states change the filters every other year, not the car. Also why change the filter if it is only half used?
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pkchin - I get it for $4.35 per qt when buying a case so that is fine. Even if I had to paid retail it still is cheaper of the (1) year of driving. I am in the process for my car results done for a baseline but I have my bike and truck results. I can post them? Up to you.

I use Amsoil tranny fluid in my Lexus (all 3.5 qts for the es300) . I emailed lexus and Amsoil and they said it is fine it just needs to pass the t4 spec. So far after 22,00 miles it is still red as new and smells like it should (sweet). I love the sweet smell of tranny fluid!

Again this is not an Amsoil thread nor do I care what anyone uses. I have used it for sometime and the results I get are really good. Show me a better oil and I will switch, it just needs to be better in fluid properties and/or lower initial price.

After having my Ford Powerstroke diesel and what results I got using Amsoil, I am amazed that it stands up so well. Diesel are very very dirty engines and the results were great. Plus the thing idled for longer periods of time, which is murder on the oil, never mind the turbo at over 900 degrees! Gas engines are very clean compared to diesels

I also ran the Amsoil tranny fluid in my truck (all 35 qts of it) it worked fine in the Ford E40D tranny (worst ford tranny out there).

su24

Well, it seems like another thread on the good old oil debate... umm if anyone would like to reply to the ORIGINAL topic, it would be appreciated.

pkchin

Sorry to have gotten off topic. In my original reply, I mentioned some options, and I went with the auto-rx option as it seemed the safest. So to try and get back on the subject and shorten what I said:

I guess you can say that all the options are "additives":

1. Flush machines - costly, may dislodge sludge and didn't want to have large chunks moving around (although I feel its unlikely). Some machines are the Bilstein system (R2000?) and I believe BG has a engine flush machine system as well.

2. The additives that you add into the oil crankcase, run for a short period (10 minutes) and drain - less costly, but I wanted a less harsh solution that I didn't want to worry about leaving it in too long and worrying if it would cause any damage if I didn't get it all out. Amsoil and BG sell these products, as I am sure there are tons of others as well.

3. Then I found auto-rx, and felt comfortable with this as I could leave it in and some of the post have I read are mostly positive. Haven't found many other products like this one, little pricier and seems more involved than option 2, but less costly than option 1.

SU24, I could point you to some websites and forums that seem to show some results with the auto-rx if you PM''d me.

Buster

I'm not saying there's anything wrong with using the oil for 12k or more miles or changing the filter without changing the oil. I'm just saying I would change both twice a year regardless of any claims. Besides, I want to go 5w-30 in the winter and 10w-30 in the summer.

I don't trust Amsoil's claims, by the way. It sounds like they've got a synthetic oil cult going and we all know how perfect cults think their gods are. I would also let the factory break-in oil run its full course whether or not it is a synthetic oil.

mburnickas

Buster At least you would do the twice a year. If you want to change oils for summer and winters that would be also fine. I also live in the wonderful screwed up state of MA and I wondered why change oil grades? Just wondered since there is really no need to unless you have some valve “tapping” that you want to dampen or something.

I also must agree with Amsoil’s Sales crap. I do not agree with all of it since they never test same oils, same weights through the same tests (like most companies on post good #’s). The only thing it did for me was to inform me when I was a dealer on how it rated in some basic manner for anyone to understand.

As far as that goes, there oil is the best in the class, protection and for the price. Again show me a better oil and I will switch. I am not a cult member as you have stated. I have tried many oils in the past and they sucked big time. In my last motorcycle ZX-9 (too slow for me) I tried some different oils (redline, Mobil, Golden-Spectro and the famous Royal purple.


The oil test results showed Golden-Spectro sucked the big one on TBN and its oxide level was through the roof. It also showed VERY high metal results. Mobil was better but not by much. Oxides were high and TBN was again very low. Also the good things you want (ie. Phosphorus 6170ppm, Zinc 934ppm and Calcium 2489 ppm) were much lower then Amosils (855, 1227, 3052 respectfully). Metal elements were better but still about 40 to 60% then Amsoil’s. Redline & Royal Purple came in the closest. Wear metals were good, oxides were much lower but the TBN was low and the good elements were 771, 1034 & 2786 respectfully. The viscosity at 100 degrees C were all low and out of range for a 20-50. All slipped to a 30+ weight of oil. These results were with all around 1,500 miles of hard Florida driven. Also Amsoil was the cheapest for me, protected better and allowed for extended drains WITH more protection. You know what I use in my GSXR1100.

Lastly, you do not need to let factory oils break in the engine from the start. There is nothing special about these oils. The oil is regular based oil with assembly glues, adhesives etc that found there way into oil. Also it is much thinner due to oils on the engine parts when assembling them.

I asked Suzuki on my GSXR1100 and they said synthetic oil is fine and Ford it is fine to add synthetic when I just bought my 1-ton Powerstroke diesel. The rings on my diesel took about 21K miles to minimize oil consumption. Regular seating I was told is 15K miles and you can never stop oil consumption with diesels.

PS. I am not, as you stated, an “oil God” but I know what I have tested throughout my limited 10 years trying to prove Amsoil wrong. While I failed, results come out to good in my ZX-9, GSXR1100, Ford 7.3 liter Diesel, Wife’s ML-420, my old (mint) 1994 5.0 Musting, and now my Lexus.

As far as on the topic re-read my first post on page one.

airahcaz

I've read this and other threads, but still have not gotten a clear answer on whether to flush or not flush engine oil.

CPO, 83K, 98 GS400