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Engine Block Drain Plugs for 1998 es300

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Old 01-16-04 | 09:56 PM
  #16  
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Hmm...interesting, I'll have to check it again. When I was under the car trying to find that drain plug, I couldn't see it at all. But I'll definitely look for it next time. According to the dealer, they don't usually drain the engine block, since it doesn't get as contaminated as the radiator, and of course, it cuts down on the servicing time.
Old 01-17-04 | 09:22 AM
  #17  
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That is part of the service. But most people don't drain the block out. You want to drain everything out right? NOt just the radiator.

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Old 01-18-04 | 06:56 AM
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Luc--You are correct. You do not need to drain the engine block. What do you gain????I bet you will not get more then 2 - 3 qts out! Waste of time....You drain the radiator since it holds 90% of it.

Dealer do it since they are on the clock at $85 PER HOUR. Hell, they will fill the tires with air too for that rate.

Again you will not have coolant related problems if you not drain the engine block. Waste of time and the time vs benfit is not there.

Last edited by mburnickas; 01-18-04 at 07:09 AM.
Old 01-18-04 | 10:29 AM
  #19  
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You don't gain anything. But the correct way to drain everything out and fill up with fresh new coolant. Even the dealership won't drain out your block. But at my shop we drain out the block(Sorry don't like to do half-*** job). If you don't have access to a lift, Draining the radiator is good enough.
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Originally posted by mburnickas
Luc--You are correct. You do not need to drain the engine block. What do you gain????I bet you will not get more then 2 - 3 qts out! Waste of time....You drain the radiator since it holds 90% of it.

Dealer do it since they are on the clock at $85 PER HOUR. Hell, they will fill the tires with air too for that rate.

Again you will not have coolant related problems if you not drain the engine block. Waste of time and the time vs benfit is not there.
Old 01-18-04 | 11:10 AM
  #20  
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JPI- Ok, I will bite….How much coolant will I drain through the engine plugs? The amount I, or anyone, will get is junk! In my last diesel truck there was 32 qts of fluid I drained the block and got 1 gallon out! That is not worth the effort or time.

Ok, my ES holds what, 2.425-gallons of coolant, so I will not get about 2 to 3 qt of fluid out of block and heater core! Give me a break. Again prove to me that there is a benefit here; because there isn’t if you do the math. Then again if you have that much time in your shop, for the “shop” rate why not.

Lastly, it is not a half-*** job as you stated. It is not worth the time and effort for the amount of coolant you get. Also if you are that worried, get a coolant filter and that will filter the coolant. Just because you drain it means nothing. You still could have items stuck on the walls / passages etc that even a flush will not get.

All this because some thinks 12 to 15% of coolant in a block means something????
Old 01-18-04 | 11:31 AM
  #21  
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Who work on Lexus ? Me or YOu? If you don't feel like drain the block...don't drain it. But that is how we do bud. Everyone in here can and will voice their opinion. I will end this post right here. Remember this is Lexus forum not a war zone.
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Old 01-18-04 | 12:10 PM
  #22  
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It does not matter if you work on Lexus or whatever. That means nothing to me. Show me proof that it is an important maintenance step? You do it, good for you. Show me the benefits or data to prove doing it prevents or does anything????????

I work with people that say the same thing, and I say this to them, “just because some works on something for along time doesn’t mean they do it correctly either.” I still fix the morons designs at work when they have been designing aerospace parts after 30 years!

Since you do it, there must be a technical reason why other then, “You want to drain everything out right? NOt just the radiator.”—as you stated on 01-17-04 17:22

Since you are an independent dealer you do not just do things, just because you THINK they should be done. If someone brings in a car that pings do you, just think and say it is warrants a valve job? No, of course you do not…There has to be a bulletin, specification or manual why something must be completed? Just would like to know where it states this for drain plugs. So far I got some who “thinks” that it should be done. I would expect more then that from a dealer, let alone a independent Lexus one.


I know it is not a war zone. I just asked for data that shows that this step needs to be completed. Again just because you work on cars and do it, does not mean that is NEEDS to be done...bud

Last edited by mburnickas; 01-18-04 at 12:35 PM.
Old 01-18-04 | 03:51 PM
  #23  
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Everyone has valid points, and JPI was good enough to let me know where the drain plugs are since I originally asked and wanted to know as the reason for starting this thread.

Sharing of knowledge of our vehicles is what makes this board great. If it is not worth the effort, then I won't do it, but I need to know where it is to see if it is worth it for me to perform. If I'm under there anyways draining the oil and its there and its easy enough, heck, I might as well.

If I were to bring it to a shop, I sure as heck would EXPECT them to drain it all out, as a DIY, we all decide individually. I just wanted to thank everyone again for all their advice and help, I have learned so much from all you guys, especially JPI and Mburnickas.

Last edited by pkchin; 01-18-04 at 03:52 PM.
Old 01-18-04 | 04:21 PM
  #24  
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I must add one thing, NEVER expect a dealer to do anything. They are theRE to make money. You know the old saying of assume....

Dealers will "nickel-and dime" you to death, case closed. When I HAVE to bring mine in I would want all items in writting and what they did, becasue somethings they never do and change you. Like the 30K service is a joke for the $$$$$$$.

Last edited by mburnickas; 01-18-04 at 04:30 PM.
Old 01-18-04 | 04:44 PM
  #25  
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AGREED!

But there are still some things that I don't trust myself to DIY like belts, water pump, fuel pump....so these things I would prefer an independant that specializes or I'll bring it to the dealership (they have lotsa nice donuts and coffee that fattens me up )
Old 02-29-04 | 04:19 PM
  #26  
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Might as well replace the thermostat when you flush out the coolant.

This also ensures you get all of the coolant out, and the extra time and $40 can save you overheating problems going forward.
Old 03-01-04 | 01:29 PM
  #27  
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Hmmm, good suggestion. I'll do that next time. Is it easy to replace the thermostat?

Anywhoo, I guess I am just blind, I still couldn't find the damn last drain plug, but Thanks to JPI for all the help, Whats an A-block?

I think I got out 4-5 qts from the radiator. Another Two quarts from the front drain Plug, and I bet there is at least 2-2.5 qts from the second drain plug. (Total is 9.6 quarts). Actually, the front drain plug is the easiest to get to since its right up front. Is the only way to get to the radiator plug to take the splash guard off or is there an easier way?

Thanks again for all your help guys!
Old 03-01-04 | 02:46 PM
  #28  
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its two bolts.

where the lower drain hose goes into the engine, it goes into a fitting and inside that fitting is the thermostat. you just take it off.

I noticed that on my other car the mechanic (could be the factory) that put in the last thermostat put the lower hose on before they bolted the fitting on with the thermostat in it so it was impossible to remove the hose w/o getting the thermostat out.

you may want to replace the squeeze style clamps with the more traditional worm drive clamps for this reason also.

dont forget if you change the thermostat, also change the gasket around it. on these Japanese cars the gasket is rubber, but on some other models its not and may require silicon RTV also.
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