pkchin

I want to drain the radiator fluid for a 1998 es300 and I know there is one at the radiator, which I need to first remove the metal splash guard (anyone know what I need to re-torque them back down to?)

Then there is one kinda in the area of the oil filter on the front of the engine block, but I can't for the life of me find the third drain plug, the diagram in the Lexus manual looks to be on the drivers side somewhere either behind and/or below the oil fill area.

Luc

Typically, you don't need to open the drain plugs from the engine block, even though the service manual said you can. I couldn't find the other drain plug from the engine block also, since there wasn't room to maneuver around to find it. What I've done is simply drain the radiator through the valve ****, then disconnect the lower radiator hose to drain what's left. Of course, you should fill & drain a few times after the initial drain.

pkchin

Thanks Luc. Did you release the drain valve on th eblock up front? That one is easy to find, I think you open it up by the outside bolt, not the one directly in the engine block.

mburnickas

I would not drain the engine but that is me. No really need to since the engines really holds “nothing” in these small engines unless it is bad.

I highly recommend a diesel coolants since these coolants are made better. They are low silicates, which mean you go little/no dropout of the coolant. That means when you open the rad cap and look inside there are no deposits on the fins etc. Nice and clean. I have used it in all my cars/bikes/etc and the rads are perfect. Also good for alu rads too.

Luc

I did release the "front" drain valve once before, but never done so afterwards. I'd just drain the radiator, and use distilled water to mix it with Toyota red coolant. You can use regular tap water to flush the system though.

pkchin

Thanks all,

Whats the best way to make sure I get all the air pockets out? Just check a few times and top off?

Also, what did you guys re-torque the bolts on the bottom metal splash guard (to access the drain plug) to?

mburnickas

Just some FYI here: Toyota red coolant is nothing more then regular ethylene glycol (EG) coolant with red dye. So save yourself some $$$ and get other EG coolants.

Luc

Once you fill the radiator up, leave the cap open still, and start the car up. While the car is running, squeeze the upper radiator hose until the bubbles disappear, and refill accordingly as well. You will need to do this until there doesn't seem to be any more bubbles. Also, it would be good to flush out the overflow reservoir. It's just a 10mm bolt and snaps into a rubber grommet. After all is done, for the next few days, just check the level in the overflow reservoir and make sure it's not too low.

pkchin

Thanks all! BTW, went to Mburns home page, now that is one mean looking piece!

Ummm, I didn't think you could sell those - I mean if you are looking for deer, whats left after its hit a few thousand times?

mburnickas

Since you and I have a 98 I would not worry about air (it will purge itself). It is not “really” a closed system. My old Powerstroke diesel had no radiator cap! Now that you had to worry about air.

But since you asked, feel the top hose to see if hot of cold. If hot you are all set. If cold, just do what “Luc” stated. When gently squeezing the top hose, you will feel the what you are looking for. You should also hear the thermostat moving if the car is not running. Plus if air bound the engine will get VERY hot as noted on the moron meter inside the car.

pkchin

Thanks for the tips guys!

Ok, so mburn - did you also do your plugs? I'll be asking you htat next

All your advice on the tranny and diff was great, did it, was as easy or easier than oil change (no filter).

I might just drain and fill the tranny every 7.5k and the tranny and diff every 15k since i didn't do a 2X or 3X drain and fill.

JPI Racing

The Other drain is on the back of the block. It's a 14mm socket. It's very important that you drain everything out. What is the point of just draining the radiator out?
www.jpimportz.org

pkchin

Thanks JPI, but from what angle can I view it, I looked and looked and still can't find it

JPI Racing

From the oil pan, good back a little bit. You will see the 14mm bolts and the drain ****.
JPI

pkchin

Now its makes sence why I never found it! I get to it from UNDERNEATH! DArn it, can't tell from the pic on the manual. So release by loosiening the outer nut!

Thanks JPI for your help again!