Serious Engine problem??? HELP!!!
03-02-04, 10:29 PM
#16
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally posted by steviej
IAC = Idle Air Control assembly. refer back to the begining posts in this thread.
briefly and roughly explained:
To clean these you will have to physically get at them. To get to the Throttle body, you have to remove the large hose that goes from the air box to the mechanism that holds the butterfly type valve (this is the throttle body). Soemtimes this area gets sooted up with carbon and junk. This garbage restricts airflow here. If you buy a spray type throttle body cleaner, make sure it says "safe for oxygen (O2) sensors" on the can.
The IAC is a separate assembly, usually bolting onto the bottom of the throttle body. It has a plunger or piston that allows for control of air passage when the car is at idle. Sometimes this plunger mechanism gets crudded up with carbon and gunk. This crud limits the movement of the piston and thus causes problems. The aperature and piston has to be cleaned so that total free movement is restored which in turns allows for better control of air movement at idle.
steviej
IAC = Idle Air Control assembly. refer back to the begining posts in this thread.
briefly and roughly explained:
To clean these you will have to physically get at them. To get to the Throttle body, you have to remove the large hose that goes from the air box to the mechanism that holds the butterfly type valve (this is the throttle body). Soemtimes this area gets sooted up with carbon and junk. This garbage restricts airflow here. If you buy a spray type throttle body cleaner, make sure it says "safe for oxygen (O2) sensors" on the can.
The IAC is a separate assembly, usually bolting onto the bottom of the throttle body. It has a plunger or piston that allows for control of air passage when the car is at idle. Sometimes this plunger mechanism gets crudded up with carbon and gunk. This crud limits the movement of the piston and thus causes problems. The aperature and piston has to be cleaned so that total free movement is restored which in turns allows for better control of air movement at idle.
steviej
03-04-04, 12:55 AM
#18
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Well I'm ashamed to say aside from fluid refills and an oil change and air filter change, I've not done much beneath the hood, so I'll probaby have to fork over the money, would you advise asking Lexus or Toyota to do the stuff you've done before they search for the root of my problem?
03-04-04, 05:41 AM
#19
Lexus Fanatic
Lexus vs. Toyota service
This is a topic that's been rehashed many times in the past, but it really depends on what you prefer to be done, who you know, etc. First of all, these 2 dealerships share the same service parts/fluids 99.9% of the time, but Toyota usually costs less (maybe by about 60%, don't quote me on that). As far as quality of service goes, I'd say Lexus beats out Toyota from my experience. Lexus provides superior customer service; a relaxing waiting room with food, drinks and Lexus collectible stuff; and most of all, a Lexus loaner (if available) 
I usually bring my car to Toyota for oil changes. Same OEM oil and filter as Lexus, only cheaper (I pay $22 every time). My 90K service will be coming up later this year (I have 83,XXX miles on my '01 ES now), so I will have to weigh my choice on either dropping my car off at Lexus (more money) and keep a loaner for a day or two, or dropping my car off at Toyota (less money) and unsure of how their loaner program works.
I usually bring my car to Toyota for oil changes. Same OEM oil and filter as Lexus, only cheaper (I pay $22 every time). My 90K service will be coming up later this year (I have 83,XXX miles on my '01 ES now), so I will have to weigh my choice on either dropping my car off at Lexus (more money) and keep a loaner for a day or two, or dropping my car off at Toyota (less money) and unsure of how their loaner program works.
03-30-04, 09:45 PM
#20
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally posted by steviej
IAC = Idle Air Control assembly. refer back to the begining posts in this thread.
briefly and roughly explained:
To clean these you will have to physically get at them. To get to the Throttle body, you have to remove the large hose that goes from the air box to the mechanism that holds the butterfly type valve (this is the throttle body). Soemtimes this area gets sooted up with carbon and junk. This garbage restricts airflow here. If you buy a spray type throttle body cleaner, make sure it says "safe for oxygen (O2) sensors" on the can.
The IAC is a separate assembly, usually bolting onto the bottom of the throttle body. It has a plunger or piston that allows for control of air passage when the car is at idle. Sometimes this plunger mechanism gets crudded up with carbon and gunk. This crud limits the movement of the piston and thus causes problems. The aperature and piston has to be cleaned so that total free movement is restored which in turns allows for better control of air movement at idle.
steviej
IAC = Idle Air Control assembly. refer back to the begining posts in this thread.
briefly and roughly explained:
To clean these you will have to physically get at them. To get to the Throttle body, you have to remove the large hose that goes from the air box to the mechanism that holds the butterfly type valve (this is the throttle body). Soemtimes this area gets sooted up with carbon and junk. This garbage restricts airflow here. If you buy a spray type throttle body cleaner, make sure it says "safe for oxygen (O2) sensors" on the can.
The IAC is a separate assembly, usually bolting onto the bottom of the throttle body. It has a plunger or piston that allows for control of air passage when the car is at idle. Sometimes this plunger mechanism gets crudded up with carbon and gunk. This crud limits the movement of the piston and thus causes problems. The aperature and piston has to be cleaned so that total free movement is restored which in turns allows for better control of air movement at idle.
steviej
03-31-04, 05:28 AM
#21
EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculator and does play a part in proper engine performance. The EGR usually has a series of trouble codes that will be set off if a problems exists. The dealership can also perform a series of tests on the EGR to isolate any potetial problem. These usually is not specific code for IAC failure, just the codes for poor engine performance associated with a faulty IAC.
also, check your PM.
steviej.
also, check your PM.
steviej.
03-31-04, 09:33 AM
#22
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally posted by steviej
EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculator and does play a part in proper engine performance. The EGR usually has a series of trouble codes that will be set off if a problems exists. The dealership can also perform a series of tests on the EGR to isolate any potetial problem. These usually is not specific code for IAC failure, just the codes for poor engine performance associated with a faulty IAC.
also, check your PM.
steviej.
EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculator and does play a part in proper engine performance. The EGR usually has a series of trouble codes that will be set off if a problems exists. The dealership can also perform a series of tests on the EGR to isolate any potetial problem. These usually is not specific code for IAC failure, just the codes for poor engine performance associated with a faulty IAC.
also, check your PM.
steviej.
03-31-04, 10:28 PM
#24
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Unfortunately, I don't think they'll refund it the problem isn't fixed. But I like the way you think.
The tech told me today, that he's pretty sure it's not the IAC, since that would normally cause the engine to stahl (stall) upon starting. So I guess I'll go with the EGR valve for starters. I can tell ya, this problem is so annoying, it's never-ending. I half want to sell the car, but I without the cash, it's not a realistic option, and with 118k miles, I feel I've got a LOT of life left in this one. Thanks again for your suggestions. Let me know if you think of anything else it could be.
The tech told me today, that he's pretty sure it's not the IAC, since that would normally cause the engine to stahl (stall) upon starting. So I guess I'll go with the EGR valve for starters. I can tell ya, this problem is so annoying, it's never-ending. I half want to sell the car, but I without the cash, it's not a realistic option, and with 118k miles, I feel I've got a LOT of life left in this one. Thanks again for your suggestions. Let me know if you think of anything else it could be.
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