New System Install
05-18-10, 12:05 PM
#48
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Location: New York
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Im sorry. didn't quite understand the part about removing the something above the ash tray and about not breaking some connection joints or something? can you elaborate on that a little please.
03-15-11, 08:10 PM
#51
Lexus Test Driver
Yes, for a fact you can. Just go to your local best buy or whereever has a car electronics store and tell them what you want to do. The part they should get for you is a high to low level adapter. Wires up to your speakers and gives you rca pre outs. You can access the speaker wires either in the trunk or at the stereo (behind the dash). I have noticed in vechicles that I get better results taking the signal closer to the source aka the stereo rather than the speakers in the trunk. With that said its much easier to get signal from the trunk... but if your running the power wire anyways....
03-17-11, 07:44 PM
#53
Lexus Test Driver
1- High to low level adapter
2- Amp kit with rcas
Since in the previous response I told you the parts and you missed that I would recommend you pay someone to get it done for you. It would prolly take you a long time versus a hour to hour and half at a shop. It is an easy install though if you are handy. Also they will probably charge you about 80 to 100.
2- Amp kit with rcas
Since in the previous response I told you the parts and you missed that I would recommend you pay someone to get it done for you. It would prolly take you a long time versus a hour to hour and half at a shop. It is an easy install though if you are handy. Also they will probably charge you about 80 to 100.
03-19-16, 04:45 PM
#54
Driver School Candidate
Yes, for a fact you can. Just go to your local best buy or whereever has a car electronics store and tell them what you want to do. The part they should get for you is a high to low level adapter. Wires up to your speakers and gives you rca pre outs. You can access the speaker wires either in the trunk or at the stereo (behind the dash). I have noticed in vechicles that I get better results taking the signal closer to the source aka the stereo rather than the speakers in the trunk. With that said its much easier to get signal from the trunk... but if your running the power wire anyways....
Last edited by Jaggernaut; 03-19-16 at 04:48 PM. Reason: add info
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01-27-19, 07:10 PM
#59
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The ground wire comes from the amp to the head unit so there shouldn't be a ground loop issue there since there aren't different grounding points. The ground at the stereo (from the amp) measures as fully grounded against the metal frame and the RCA's (in my case) still have a good fuse so the negative is connected to the radio frame and ground wire (measured via multi-meter). I haven't been able to figure out why there was no issue with the OEM unit but are with aftermarket. Let us know if you found a solution!
01-28-19, 07:17 AM
#60
It likely isn't something you did wrong/failed to do. I'm dealing with the same thing (97 ES300 with a Pioneer DEH-X8800BHS) and haven't found any videos or posts where folks have used the pre-amps out of a new head unit with the stock amp and not gotten noise and alternator whine or anyone who fixed it without bypassing the amp, something I do not want to do as it means dumping the 8" sub in the back or spending the time and money to buy and run new wires and amp to it.
The ground wire comes from the amp to the head unit so there shouldn't be a ground loop issue there since there aren't different grounding points. The ground at the stereo (from the amp) measures as fully grounded against the metal frame and the RCA's (in my case) still have a good fuse so the negative is connected to the radio frame and ground wire (measured via multi-meter). I haven't been able to figure out why there was no issue with the OEM unit but are with aftermarket. Let us know if you found a solution!
The ground wire comes from the amp to the head unit so there shouldn't be a ground loop issue there since there aren't different grounding points. The ground at the stereo (from the amp) measures as fully grounded against the metal frame and the RCA's (in my case) still have a good fuse so the negative is connected to the radio frame and ground wire (measured via multi-meter). I haven't been able to figure out why there was no issue with the OEM unit but are with aftermarket. Let us know if you found a solution!
