Upgrading your 92-93 ES300 Fuel System
05-12-05, 05:45 PM
#1
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Upgrading your 92-93 ES300 Fuel System
As I have been making extensive modifications to my car, I would like to start making recommendations on parts that I have used, what works and what does not.
When modifying the fuel system we have the follwing parts to look at...
Fuel pump, Injectors, FPR, Filter, ECU.
Fuel Pump
Our stock fuel pump is basically complete garbage. To give you an idea, it is shared in the 93 geo metro
. The upgrading options include a 190lph 255lph and 255lph high flow pumps. Lph = litres per hour. For basic mods, a 190lph is great but for forced induction apps I recommend a 255 just to be safe for future upgrades.
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com is the only site i have found with good deals and full fuel pump kits for us.
Fuel Injectors
Like our stock fuel pump, our stock fuel injectors are also complete garbage. We share these with a KIA, yes a KIA. The best option I have found for replacing these for mild performance is a set of 7mge 3rd generation non turbo supra injectors. These are a base of 315cc compared to our stock 200cc. Also available are larger models such as 550cc 680cc and higher. Our friends at ebay usually have a few sets of the 315cc injectors available.
This will show you how the max horsepower is affected by your injectors.
200cc = 204hp at 85% duration
315cc = 321hp at 85% duration
Anything over 85% duration can mess up the injectors
FPR
Our stock fuel pressure regulator isnt the greatest oem part known to man. It is a good idea to upgrade this as well. You would have to look for a universal FPR, or for boosted applications, an FMU (fuel management unit). An FMU adds more fuel as you hit boost and rising boost.
Fuel Filter
Replacing the stock filter with a lower micron one will work fine.
ECU
When you upgrade the fuel system on any car by more than 5-10% flow, the ECU does not know how to react and the car will not run properly. A piggyback ecu like an safc, emanage or smt will be perfect to tune the fuel system to match the airflow, tricking the ecu. A wideband o2 sensor added into your exhaust system can assist with your tuning of the piggyback.
Most of the ES owners on here probably will not need to upgracde their fuel system, but if you plan on doing extensive motorwork, I hope this helps you get started on upgrading your fuel system.
I may add some illustrations to give you a clearer idea of what the parts are and the difficulty of upgrading them on your own.
-McElligott
When modifying the fuel system we have the follwing parts to look at...
Fuel pump, Injectors, FPR, Filter, ECU.
Fuel Pump
Our stock fuel pump is basically complete garbage. To give you an idea, it is shared in the 93 geo metro
. The upgrading options include a 190lph 255lph and 255lph high flow pumps. Lph = litres per hour. For basic mods, a 190lph is great but for forced induction apps I recommend a 255 just to be safe for future upgrades.http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com is the only site i have found with good deals and full fuel pump kits for us.
Fuel Injectors
Like our stock fuel pump, our stock fuel injectors are also complete garbage. We share these with a KIA, yes a KIA. The best option I have found for replacing these for mild performance is a set of 7mge 3rd generation non turbo supra injectors. These are a base of 315cc compared to our stock 200cc. Also available are larger models such as 550cc 680cc and higher. Our friends at ebay usually have a few sets of the 315cc injectors available.
This will show you how the max horsepower is affected by your injectors.
200cc = 204hp at 85% duration
315cc = 321hp at 85% duration
Anything over 85% duration can mess up the injectors
FPR
Our stock fuel pressure regulator isnt the greatest oem part known to man. It is a good idea to upgrade this as well. You would have to look for a universal FPR, or for boosted applications, an FMU (fuel management unit). An FMU adds more fuel as you hit boost and rising boost.
Fuel Filter
Replacing the stock filter with a lower micron one will work fine.
ECU
When you upgrade the fuel system on any car by more than 5-10% flow, the ECU does not know how to react and the car will not run properly. A piggyback ecu like an safc, emanage or smt will be perfect to tune the fuel system to match the airflow, tricking the ecu. A wideband o2 sensor added into your exhaust system can assist with your tuning of the piggyback.
Most of the ES owners on here probably will not need to upgracde their fuel system, but if you plan on doing extensive motorwork, I hope this helps you get started on upgrading your fuel system.
I may add some illustrations to give you a clearer idea of what the parts are and the difficulty of upgrading them on your own.
-McElligott
05-12-05, 05:46 PM
#2
I wrote something for Toyota Nation a while back that goes along with the fuel stuff Sean has spelled out. You can use this to fairly well tune any Toyota engine you run across.
The Free Mod Series - Part IV Cheaply Monitoring the ECU & A/F
There are soo many ways you can have fun with cheap electronics! First there was the ECT mod for adding .5-1* advance of ignition timing, and increase base fuel trim up to 4%.
Reading and deciphering what your car is doing
Background:
So you're running stock, have some upgrades, or maybe even have a low-mid power Turbo, or S/C system and you're still running the stock ECU. How can you possibly tune the engine without hundreds of dollars of expensive 1 time dyno tuning???
Theory
A tuned engine is a happy, powerful, and economic engine! The OEM doesn't understand this.
The Vf signal. Our lifeline into what the ECU is doing to the base fuel map!!!
The Vf signal is the ECU's way of letting the world know what it is deciding to do with the fuel mixture. When all the sensors have sensed, the ECU has picked a map to run in, and everything else is said and done, the Vf signal shows you what the ECU has decided to do. (This is your long and short term fuel trims in an OBD-I car)
By connecting any type of volt meter to the ECU/diagnostic port, you can read the votlage of the Vf signal.
0V = Rich mixture 11-20% from normal (ECU is leaning the mixture)
1.25V = Slightly rich mixture 4-10% from normal (ECU is leaning the mixture)
2.5V = Within 3% of the basic map
3.75V = Slightly lean mixture 4-10% from normal (ECU is richening the mixture)
5V = Lean mixture 11-20% from the mixture (ECU is richening the mixture)
I have two wired up. One reading each Vf signal (Vf1, Vf2) One is for the front bank, while the other is for the rear bank. (Obviously I4's will have one Vf signal) If you feel like figuring out what the new voltages will be, you can bridge Vf1 and Vf2 and read the entire thing at the same time, but I wouldn't do it.
The o2 sensor. The only way to see the end result of the ECU's tuning!
The Vf signal shows you what the engine is doing in an attempt at perfect tuning. The o2 sensor shows you the end result o f what *actually* happened. By comparing the o2 voltage to the Vf voltage gives you a fairly accurate representation of what your engine is doing in the current conditions, and where you need to go.
This works with older lambda (narrow band) o2 sensors... Despite what you may think, yes you CAN fairly accurately tune with a lambda sensor!
If you can find a 1v, 1.5v, or 2v volt meter, you can wire those up to the oxygen sensor's themselves, or the oxygen sensor simulators from the ECU, or the diagnostics port under the hood. 450mV should correspond with 14.7 air/fuel ratio. The ECU will try to achieve this basically any time you are not more than 80% throttle. The smaller the voltage, the leaner, the larger the voltage, the richer.
A basic description would be as such:
.1 17:1
.2 16.5
.3 16:1
.4 15.4
.5 14.9
.6 14.4
.7 13.8
.8 13.2
.9 12.7
.985 12.1
You'll find the best power on an N/A engine to be between 780 and 830mv. They come fmro the factory running extremely rich. Sometimes 950mv! (around a 12.5 A/F ratio)
*note* there is the *real* o2 sensor voltage, and there is the *simulated* o2 voltage delivered to the diagnostic port. The simulated o2 sensor is a stead, averaged signal that will like a tiny bit behind current conditions (.1-.5 second). The o2 sensor, while live, fluctuates quickly (a good sensor will fluctuate at least 8-10 times a second @ 2500rpm, and between 400-550mv at idle/cruise)
(bank 1 sensor 1 is the front bank o2 sensor, bank 2 sensor 1 is the rear bank o2 sensor)
The combination of the three allows you to see what the ECU originally wants to do with the A/F ratio, what the ECU is trying to do with the A/F ratio, and if it is successful in doing so. From that, if you have any idea about tuning you can interpolate fairly well how to do something.
Now! Someone will ask if it matters that you do both sets of signals. Not really, considering only the ECU itself can tune every individual signal. *However* I have all ready found that the signals do not always match each other... Often times during, and immediately after transition periods, the sensors will not match by a setting or two.
So think the narrow band sensor is inaccurate??? If it's heated, and in the general viscinity of the correct tempature, It'll be within 1 ratio... Typically it even reads LEANER than the actual ratio is because the votlage increases as exhaust tampature does. (So that's even more safety since msot people tell you not to trust a narrow band sensor!)
The Free Mod Series - Part IV Cheaply Monitoring the ECU & A/F
- You can also use this to see
- If you *need* a new fuel system
- How far the ECU is having to adjust the current fuel system
- Get the A/F ratio tuned within one ratio
There are soo many ways you can have fun with cheap electronics! First there was the ECT mod for adding .5-1* advance of ignition timing, and increase base fuel trim up to 4%.
Reading and deciphering what your car is doing
Background:
So you're running stock, have some upgrades, or maybe even have a low-mid power Turbo, or S/C system and you're still running the stock ECU. How can you possibly tune the engine without hundreds of dollars of expensive 1 time dyno tuning???
Theory
A tuned engine is a happy, powerful, and economic engine! The OEM doesn't understand this.
The Vf signal. Our lifeline into what the ECU is doing to the base fuel map!!!
The Vf signal is the ECU's way of letting the world know what it is deciding to do with the fuel mixture. When all the sensors have sensed, the ECU has picked a map to run in, and everything else is said and done, the Vf signal shows you what the ECU has decided to do. (This is your long and short term fuel trims in an OBD-I car)
By connecting any type of volt meter to the ECU/diagnostic port, you can read the votlage of the Vf signal.
0V = Rich mixture 11-20% from normal (ECU is leaning the mixture)
1.25V = Slightly rich mixture 4-10% from normal (ECU is leaning the mixture)
2.5V = Within 3% of the basic map
3.75V = Slightly lean mixture 4-10% from normal (ECU is richening the mixture)
5V = Lean mixture 11-20% from the mixture (ECU is richening the mixture)
I have two wired up. One reading each Vf signal (Vf1, Vf2) One is for the front bank, while the other is for the rear bank. (Obviously I4's will have one Vf signal) If you feel like figuring out what the new voltages will be, you can bridge Vf1 and Vf2 and read the entire thing at the same time, but I wouldn't do it.
The o2 sensor. The only way to see the end result of the ECU's tuning!
The Vf signal shows you what the engine is doing in an attempt at perfect tuning. The o2 sensor shows you the end result o f what *actually* happened. By comparing the o2 voltage to the Vf voltage gives you a fairly accurate representation of what your engine is doing in the current conditions, and where you need to go.
This works with older lambda (narrow band) o2 sensors... Despite what you may think, yes you CAN fairly accurately tune with a lambda sensor!
If you can find a 1v, 1.5v, or 2v volt meter, you can wire those up to the oxygen sensor's themselves, or the oxygen sensor simulators from the ECU, or the diagnostics port under the hood. 450mV should correspond with 14.7 air/fuel ratio. The ECU will try to achieve this basically any time you are not more than 80% throttle. The smaller the voltage, the leaner, the larger the voltage, the richer.
A basic description would be as such:
.1 17:1
.2 16.5
.3 16:1
.4 15.4
.5 14.9
.6 14.4
.7 13.8
.8 13.2
.9 12.7
.985 12.1
You'll find the best power on an N/A engine to be between 780 and 830mv. They come fmro the factory running extremely rich. Sometimes 950mv! (around a 12.5 A/F ratio)
*note* there is the *real* o2 sensor voltage, and there is the *simulated* o2 voltage delivered to the diagnostic port. The simulated o2 sensor is a stead, averaged signal that will like a tiny bit behind current conditions (.1-.5 second). The o2 sensor, while live, fluctuates quickly (a good sensor will fluctuate at least 8-10 times a second @ 2500rpm, and between 400-550mv at idle/cruise)
(bank 1 sensor 1 is the front bank o2 sensor, bank 2 sensor 1 is the rear bank o2 sensor)
The combination of the three allows you to see what the ECU originally wants to do with the A/F ratio, what the ECU is trying to do with the A/F ratio, and if it is successful in doing so. From that, if you have any idea about tuning you can interpolate fairly well how to do something.
Now! Someone will ask if it matters that you do both sets of signals. Not really, considering only the ECU itself can tune every individual signal. *However* I have all ready found that the signals do not always match each other... Often times during, and immediately after transition periods, the sensors will not match by a setting or two.
So think the narrow band sensor is inaccurate??? If it's heated, and in the general viscinity of the correct tempature, It'll be within 1 ratio... Typically it even reads LEANER than the actual ratio is because the votlage increases as exhaust tampature does. (So that's even more safety since msot people tell you not to trust a narrow band sensor!)
Last edited by Pheonix; 05-12-05 at 09:16 PM.
05-16-05, 09:45 AM
#4
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by mcelligott
Fuel Injectors
Like our stock fuel pump, our stock fuel injectors are also complete garbage. We share these with a KIA, yes a KIA. The best option I have found for replacing these for mild performance is a set of 7mge 3rd generation non turbo supra injectors. These are a base of 315cc compared to our stock 200cc. Also available are larger models such as 550cc 680cc and higher. Our friends at ebay usually have a few sets of the 315cc injectors available.
This will show you how the max horsepower is affected by your injectors.
200cc = 204hp at 85% duration
315cc = 321hp at 85% duration
Anything over 85% duration can mess up the injectors
-McElligott
Like our stock fuel pump, our stock fuel injectors are also complete garbage. We share these with a KIA, yes a KIA. The best option I have found for replacing these for mild performance is a set of 7mge 3rd generation non turbo supra injectors. These are a base of 315cc compared to our stock 200cc. Also available are larger models such as 550cc 680cc and higher. Our friends at ebay usually have a few sets of the 315cc injectors available.
This will show you how the max horsepower is affected by your injectors.
200cc = 204hp at 85% duration
315cc = 321hp at 85% duration
Anything over 85% duration can mess up the injectors
-McElligott
05-16-05, 02:52 PM
#5
No. Intake modding adds next to nothing, if not looses power most of the time. It's like a cat-back exhaust. You're buying it purely for sound.
The stock engines run way too rich to begin with. Adding more fuel only decreases power further.
1mz-fe's come with 280cc injectors, but the same weak fuel pump.
280cc / 5 = 56hp
56hp * 85% = 47hp
47hp * 6 injectors = 282hp at a "regular" fuel pressure of 43psig.
If you're not pushing 280bhp on the stock engine, or pushing more than 250hp on a forced induction setup, you have no reason to begin to think about larger injectors.
The stock engines run way too rich to begin with. Adding more fuel only decreases power further.
1mz-fe's come with 280cc injectors, but the same weak fuel pump.
280cc / 5 = 56hp
56hp * 85% = 47hp
47hp * 6 injectors = 282hp at a "regular" fuel pressure of 43psig.
If you're not pushing 280bhp on the stock engine, or pushing more than 250hp on a forced induction setup, you have no reason to begin to think about larger injectors.
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