3rdelement

iTrader: (1)

What is required parts wise for the retrofit of a turbo?

thanks for the info(in advance)

mcelligott

Might want to do a search on this one.

Turbo, intercooler, fuel pump, injectors, intercooler piping, collector pipe, downpipe, bov, oil lines, tapped oil pan, cutting for a front mount intercooler, relocation of battery, lot of stuff.

Lexusfreak

Sounds like several thousand dollars in investment.

mcelligott

If you can get everything secondhand and do all the work yourself, you save a few thousand.

MoreMGD32

iTrader: (1)

what is the max psi that the es300 can hold before blowing up the engine?

Pheonix

An unanswerable question.
PSI is just pressure. That can be any amount of actual flow. A big turbo puts out more flow at a low psi, than a small one puts out at a higher psi.

By that, CFM is also a bad measurement as CFM doesn't account for density (It's just volume, not mass) What you *really* need to ask is the mass of flow. lb/m, kg/m, a few others. If you're not in europre or asia, we all use lb/m.




If it's in good condition, the tuner is excellent, and you understand you can't drive it like a 100% stock car (don't flog as much, as if you do - have a low boost option to daily drive on).
3vz-fe 400-475bhp racing
1mz-fe 400bhp racing.
I wouldn't daily drive past 350hp. After a few months, the first v6 turbo on any platform (Tony the Tiger '94 1mz-fe) melted a ring at 350, upped the boost to finish it off, and he dropped a different piston by 375.


You can figure out yourself the lb/m flows the engine needs at those power, and cross refferance that with some turbo/supercharger compressor/flow maps.





Like Sean said, you *have* to have:
Fuel pump, injectors, engine control, RR-FPR
Wastegate (If not internal), BOV
Enough exhaust pipe to merge the two banks, run to the turbo(Up pipe), and run out the turbo to your exhaust (Down pipe)
Oil lines to & from the turbo - Tapped oil pan
Water lines to & from the turbo (Use the throttle body cooling lines, their only purpose is cooling the EGR pipe, you won't have EGR anymore)
Intercooler pipe, charge pipe (Intercooler to throttlebody), couplers/good hose clamps (T-bar)
A turbo sized for the engine & power output you want
Intercooler
Colder spark plugs with a smaller gap (How much, depends on power output)
Breather for the front head, catch can/dual system for the PCV, or gut the valve & use it as a breather like the front.
Vacuum lines...



More than likely, you'll wind up needing another $50 in miscellaneous stuff no-one can ever list because it's application specific. Like oil fittings, oil restrictor valve, fittings if the turbo doesn't have any.... More couplers & hose clamps. Welding wire... You don't know until you start.

Depending on how *much* power you're trying to make, you may need a stronger coil.
Water Injection is great.





You want to do a compression check first also. You must have a good headgasket, and you WILL leak oil under boost if your rings are going. It's something like three times the amount of blowby for most turbo cars - so the rings not onl get a good bit of stress, they deal with a lot more blow-by, AND you must be able to get rid of that. With the breather/PCV still on the intake, you'll just pressureize the crankcase even more!





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You have to re-locate the battery, cruise control is deleted. There is the possibility of relocating it.




If you have a M/T, swap in a new clutch like Sean, and let it ride. If you have an A/T... I wouldn't drive much on it. My plans have always been 280hp DD, 320hp short races. You burn through the third gear clutch instantly over 350bhp.



If you have an A/T, you'll need AT LEAST a valve body upgrade, and an auxiliary transmission oil cooler. An auxiliary filter is a good idea also. (Read on Lexus Owners Club for info on that. SKPerformance wrote a good article) The transmission would still blow daily driven between 300-320bhp. Depending on your driving habits, i.e. how often you put power down, and how hard - it may be 6 months, it may be a year.

You'll want all new fluids. Oil->Powersteering->Differential->Transmision->Coolant->Brake fluid

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Also... The axles are suspect. Sean snapped a half-shaft (That's the axle itself, not a joint) years back N/A with n2o. A few more have been broken by various people. Including replacements.

I don't think anyone knows how often they fail, or how much power they can take. Whatever the 3s-gte MR2's can take, is probably what a v6 axle can take. that's the best I can tell you.





It would also be a good idea to pickup an LSD out of an MR2, or celica. No one has ever put one in a Camry platform, but there is bound to be an axle combination that works. It's also GOT to be cheaper than getting a normal aftermarket LSD machined to fit!















There are two other alternatives that are fairly easy. The TRD Supecharger, or n2o.

n2o is easy & cheap. They even make n2o injectors that piggyback the stock fuel injectors, for easy port injection!!! Works well & is reliable as long as you get enough fuel for it. Understand nothing can destroy any part of your drivetrain as quick as n2o. Everything from the axles to engine internals



The TRD supercharger is very weak 240hp 4psi, and you're limited by pulley size. I think the upper 12psi range is the most anyone has ever fit on a Camry/Solara. That's like... 320-350bhp depending on the rest of the setup.

The main problem with the blower, is heat. Enormous amounts of charge heat. Because it's built into the upper intake air chamber, the only easily viable solution is pre-supercharger water injection. That's not a great solution.
The TRD charger produces no boost in 1st gear, and ALL trd chargers have problems running too lean because Toyota doesn't upgrade the fuel system. Most of them ping in summer months, a few enough to knock!


The TRD charger only fits the 97-'01 1mz-fe Intake, however... There has been one machined to a 94-96 1mz-fe, and since the intake is the same thing, You can machine a trd charger onto any 92-'01 Toyota v6. So... The TRD charger is expensive, and doesn't work well without more money spent.
















Most people can't afford changing all the fluids in their car at one time.
If you're serious, just start part collecting. You'll itch & itch & itch, eventually you'll scratch by getting a welder and start doing the pre-modifications. Then it's off to the races.


Pick-A-Pull/ebay a proper sized used turbo. You don't want to see a lot of oil the wheels, or a ground/chewed up one. A Tiny bit of wear is normal... You shouldn't be able to wiggle it more than a hair in any direction / side to side, or front to back.


Used turbo's go for $20-60 regardless if they're good or not. Rebuild kits (If the turbo starts out suspect) where you replace the seals & bearings normally ebay for les than $100.







If you're serious about keeping the car a few years, buy a turbo and let the entire idea simmer. If you don't do it, you can always clean it up, ebay it and get a lest more money that you paid for.

3rdelement

iTrader: (1)

yup its an old post. But i have access to a small SRT4 turbo....wondering if i would need some kind of computer to keep the fuel air mixture correct....or if it is even possible to use that turbo on my car?

any turbo gods have an opinion on this?

mcelligott

That turbo might be a little small for a 3.0L If you had 2 you would be good to go. You will need some sort of air/fuel control to keep things in order. I used an emanage for a while but I am upgrading to a stand alone.

3rdelement

iTrader: (1)

mk. was curious because he is currently running a 2.4liter 4 banger.

Pheonix

It's a TD04. It's going to be too small for the v6. It'd only work out to huge low rpm torque + just higher than stock hp in the middle of the rpm range. Then it'd fall off to way under stock power levels quickly as the turbine can't flow the exhaust the car is putting out & the compressor can't supply what the engine naturally injests.


To get a descent amount of power upgrade, but not touching 300bhp:
Running flat out:
T3 Super 60 (A real one - quiet rare as most are mis-nomered T3-60 60/63's)
TD04 - 18T
TD05 - 16G

Good street turbo's that won't provide power as quickly - but will have large amounts of room to turn up boost & make power (Once the transmission is swapped/upgraded) would be:
GT30R, or GT35R at MOST. (Expencive - low volume - large production delays for "real" ones - most are just GT wheels machined into an old housing with a BB center)
TD06 - 20G
T3/T04E hybrid. At least a 50 trim T3 turbine (prefferable the 60, or 63) With either a T04E-54, or the full T04E-60. (40 is too small, interum steps other than 54 have problems)
IHI RHF55
KKK RS2

Turbo's to avoid:
T04 - Ancient stone age turbo's that take too long to spool
T4s's - See T4
Txx's - Ancient. Too much turbo without upgrades & if you do go with upgrades, you can simply buy non-****ty turbos to start with
T3/T4 hybrids - Most are small T3 48 turbines with Ancient T04/T4s compressors

Avoid any large turbo in general or be faced with too long a spool time to be fun.
It's better to run a smaller turbo that takes 1bar to accomplish what you want, than a large turbo that is low psi. Driveability will suffer greatly...

Tho I've tested fitted time & time again on the rear bank, twin turbo is next to impossible. If you do feel the need, use a pair of IHI rhb52w's off either a probe/mx6(VJ11) for around 300bhp, or a pair of thunderbird(VJ16) for around 400.

mcelligott

He could run it off of one bank though.

Pheonix

Still too small, but then it wouldn't be a power loss.
SAAB does the one bank thing on their v6's with GT15's now GT17's. They do very little power peak (relatively) running all they can & saab only runs them 3-5psi off one bank.
But they get a huge amount of torque because of the quickly spooling turbo's without the simply huge powerband loss from a tiny exhaust restriction caused by routing v6 exhaust through a tiny turbine section!

Any of the first 3 turbos listed above would make good/great single bank turbos.


Yes 3rd, you'll need fuel management or lean the 1mz-fe out quickly & melt stuff!