polishstud

Hey so I am planning on having a custom turbo job done to my 97 es. Now this will include a Garrett T3/T4 turbo boosting 6psi. It sounds small but that will put the car at 250 whp and 250 pounds of torque. Now will my transmission be able to take this much power? Also if I would want to put lets say 12 pounds of boost on what should I watch out for or do so that my car doesnt just magically stop working? Thanks for your help.

Pheonix

It depends on how you drive it. If you beat it like it was stock, then no. It's not going to last for any long amount of time.
You'll need:
An aux. transmission cooler (or one really big one)
Valve body ugprade
Synthetic fluid

Even then you still can't beat it. Less you'll wind up with money in semi-modified transmission that only lasts 6-9 months.

There is a reason why you always hear that people with real power don't drive that fast most of the time. It has nothing to do with simply knowing you can win, tickets,etc. & everything to do with wanting to have a working car down the road.

Regardless of what boost you run:
Retard a good bit of ignition timing
Run your car so rich it pukes
Defeat close-loop reprogramming - so you don't run lean before open-loop triggers

Beware of lean, and detonation. You could melt them at 250 horsepower easily enough. They go real fast @ what you're talking about (320bhp). It'll melt the rings & burn a hole in that piston before you can say, "<sigh> I should have paid McElligott $2500 to do it for me!".

polishstud

Wow now im kinda scared about putting forced induction into my car. How did you do it pheonix because I have noticed that you just recieved a new turbo for your car?

I want to be able to push my car every now and then because face it, I believe that everyone loves the feeling of accelerating fast. But if that risks my transmission from failing completly then Id rather not do it. My car only has 50,000 miles and honestly i like it too much to let it stop running.

Pheonix

Everything really just depends @ 250whp I think you'll be fine if you don't beat it, but it's not gonna last long by 280-300whp.

You'll want the big cooler upgrade & valve body modification.

polishstud

Well alright thanks for telling me that, but hey do you think it might be better just to do an engine swap in my car to maybe a 2JZ-GTE or 2GR-FSE 3.5L from the new is350? Could that be cheaper and longer lasting than just installing a custom turbo?

Pheonix

i6's are impossible - all of them. There's not enough width in the bay to mount them transversly.

The GR family is going to be extremely cost prohibitive.
There is 0 used engine base from wrecked cars, meaning they must be bought from Toyota. Supplys of new engines are always low for a few years. Making it worse, Toyota has a habit of selling crate engines for $3000-5000usd. Even when they can saturate the supply lines, the older v6's all still cost $2000+.

The 3.4L 5vz-fe can't fit in the engine bay directly. It's too tall. With real short custom engine mounts it could, or with a big enough hood scoop.
Something I've helped the 5vz-fe suv/truck crowd figure out - The 3vz-fe valvetrain is a direct swap in them. That let's them go from notihng but torque & nothing after 4500rpm - max 5500rpm) to the 3vz-fe's 5800rpm hp peak & 7000rpm swing.

If I were doing an engine swap this second:
1) Find a way to stuff the 1uz-fe in the bay. - Aint gonna happen with the bellhousing adapter needed
2) Run in Mustang-Mode.
I.E. Twin turbo a 5vz-fe with 3vz-fe cams, drive it with the 3vz-fe electronics swapped over (because OBD-II sucks large ones) & have no hood.
Bonus style points for compound charging twin turbo with the 3.4L TRD Supercharger.










You're most likely stuck with what you've got. <cough> You could always throw an E-153 M/T in it ya know.

W. David

Hey Pheonix,

You seem to know what you're talking about re: engine swaps...

I was thinking about this very thing the other day....I have a 99. Would it be possible to drop in the 3MZ-FE outta the ES330? I would assume it's possible.....direct drop though, or what else would have to be done?

Whether its worth it or not is a whole other story....although the numbers on the 5th gen are pretty solid, given the size of the car compared to ours...I think the extra 25 HP or whatever it is would certainly do me over for a while....

Just curious.

Pheonix

Normally what has happenned (To other 'yoda vehicles/engines) is that as long as the block demisions are mostly the same (new generation block in the same family), the mounting points are retained.
They make up the difference with the engine mounts.

It's possible that you could get one to fit without much work. You'd still need the 3mz ECU & wiring etc.




I think it's a very, very bad idea. Displacement gains from boring are the biggest power joke of all time. Power scales linearly with displacement & there simply isn't room to bore any modern engine to gain power. They build & engineer to spec @ the factory. 2995cc VS 3311cc is only a 10.5% displacement gain. 210bhp VS 230bhp = 9.5% power gain. If you want 20 horsepower, spend you a few hundred on a y-pipe & high-flow cat. With a cat-back you're sure to make more peak power & power from the mid rpm range on.
Save your money for a used TRD charger + mods, or a turbo.

W. David

I didn't think the supercharger did much to this car though???

Am I wrong??

Also, in regards to a Y-pipe and a high-flow cat, is it possible to do this without achieving an overly loud/almost obnoxious exhaust tone?? I saw someone on here last week in search of a G35 type tone....and that to me would be perfect, as I just love the sound of that thing. Nice and subtle until you really step on it.

Is this attainable with what you are suggesting?

Pheonix

The 3.0L TRD charger @ 4psi takes an A/T 1mz-fe not having knock sensor problems from 150-155whp to 185-190whp.
People are picking up used setups for as low as $1500 in some cases. $2000-2500 is gonna beat the heck outta trying to find a trashed 3mz-fe. (I'm saying that & I'm the one that hates the 3.0L charger. Bleh) With forced induction it's not just the peak numbers, it's the powerband. You've got more of it, all the time (for the most part.) So the same peak numbers FI VS N/A are very different on the same engine.
I was just throwing FI out there, you sound like you want more power in the long run. Always plan for the future. Doesn't do good to lay down money this year, then throw it in the garbage next year!


The y-pipe/cat doesn't change the exhaust sound much. Very, very little change. Hell a few hundred dollars in N/A mods is gonna bring you right inline with a 3mz-fe if not a bit more peak power.
After the y-pipe, if you don't feel like turbo/super charging, lay down $650 for an n2o kit with a 75 wet shot. You'll come out with 280-290hp on the juice. Just not bigger than a 75 wet shot without upgrading the fuel system. The engine (in good condition) can handle it, but the fuel fogger can't supply what the n2o puts out. (Example: on a 100 wet shot they may give you around 100hp worth of fuel, but they give over 115hp worth of n2o)

3000

I don't know if this applies to all turbo cars but I think I remember seeing something in the Supra owner's manual, it says that it's best to run on 91+ octane if the car is a turbo.

W. David

Pheonix,

I have a 99 though....and I didn't think the TRD SC would do anything due to the VVT-i?? Am I wrong again (it's likely)???