New Owner-Performance questions
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New Owner-Performance questions
Good morning:
I am new to the Lexus fold, however I have had many Toyo's in the past. I love my car, 2002 ES300 with 25k miles, and feel it is certainly the nicest car i have ever owned. I am a speed-freak though, having Mach 1's, Z/28's, Lightnings, etc in the past, and would love to see what, if anything, there is out there for this car. I want to keep it reliable, but at the same time increase power and suspension execution. Any help is most certainly appreciated...
Glad to be here...Dan
I am new to the Lexus fold, however I have had many Toyo's in the past. I love my car, 2002 ES300 with 25k miles, and feel it is certainly the nicest car i have ever owned. I am a speed-freak though, having Mach 1's, Z/28's, Lightnings, etc in the past, and would love to see what, if anything, there is out there for this car. I want to keep it reliable, but at the same time increase power and suspension execution. Any help is most certainly appreciated...
Glad to be here...Dan
#2
Seeeeeeeeearch.
N/A:
y-pipe
porting & polishing heads w' 3-angle valve job
piggyback
FI:
Mod the anemic 3.0L TRD Supercharger fit, fab a custom turbo, or n2o.
n2o being the easiest, a 75 wet shot being the max you can safely run without supporting fuel mods.
Keep it under 400bhp to be safe. 1mz-fe's are bad to run lean & melt pistons/rings. If you're confidant you can keep them slobbering rich, or run enough water injection under boost... Sky's the limit. Just remember that running lean makes you need to rebuild the engine in a short amount of time, while detonation is a race between melting said rings/pistons, and spinning rod bearings. If you wanna just put new pistons, deves rings & stronger rods in it from the start, who knows. Somewhere between 600 & 1000bhp is where you'll want to stop with the power increases.
Transmission:
IDK how the new 5-speeds respond to big power upgrades. You'll want a valve-body mod, and a large auxiliary. Either way... All transmission should have aux. coolers added for longevity & the valve body mod will probably knock atleast a second off the 1/4 mile time, along with you probably being the first person *ever* to quit whining about it's shifting pattern.
Suspension:
Buy a rear sway bar (and a front one)
Then either buy performance struts & drop springs (atleast a 1.5" drop), or spend your $800-1800 on the few Coilovers available for the Camry platform. (D2's 2 win)
N/A:
y-pipe
porting & polishing heads w' 3-angle valve job
piggyback
FI:
Mod the anemic 3.0L TRD Supercharger fit, fab a custom turbo, or n2o.
n2o being the easiest, a 75 wet shot being the max you can safely run without supporting fuel mods.
Keep it under 400bhp to be safe. 1mz-fe's are bad to run lean & melt pistons/rings. If you're confidant you can keep them slobbering rich, or run enough water injection under boost... Sky's the limit. Just remember that running lean makes you need to rebuild the engine in a short amount of time, while detonation is a race between melting said rings/pistons, and spinning rod bearings. If you wanna just put new pistons, deves rings & stronger rods in it from the start, who knows. Somewhere between 600 & 1000bhp is where you'll want to stop with the power increases.
Transmission:
IDK how the new 5-speeds respond to big power upgrades. You'll want a valve-body mod, and a large auxiliary. Either way... All transmission should have aux. coolers added for longevity & the valve body mod will probably knock atleast a second off the 1/4 mile time, along with you probably being the first person *ever* to quit whining about it's shifting pattern.
Suspension:
Buy a rear sway bar (and a front one)
Then either buy performance struts & drop springs (atleast a 1.5" drop), or spend your $800-1800 on the few Coilovers available for the Camry platform. (D2's 2 win)
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