Check out my new ride.....93 black 5 speed!!!!!(Pics)
#1
Check out my new ride.....93 black 5 speed!!!!!(Pics)
Muhahahah........look @ what i just got!!!!!
93 Lexus ES 300 Black/ Tan 5 speed. 69k
I believe what I've bought is pretty rare. More details/pics tomorrow.
Enjoy.
93 Lexus ES 300 Black/ Tan 5 speed. 69k
I believe what I've bought is pretty rare. More details/pics tomorrow.
Enjoy.
#4
mania, that's indeed a rare find... a 5-speed, manual transmission ES with low miles Congrats and hope you keep your baby in top condition (perhaps think about changing the shifter to a nicer looking one) I can't believe the gauge cluster still looks good after all these years!
#5
The gauge cluster isn't stock. Looks like OLT had his hands on it.
That's stock.
Looks like it's been serviced. UIAC has been cleaned off. The main air hose between the AFM & Throttlebody has split & been siliconed so it won't leak. Aftermarket plug wires, aftermarket coolant fill pressure cap. Radiator may be, but I honestly can't tell.
Front valve cover gasket seems to be leaking, or slowly weaping oil out as there's stains all around it. Rear one's bound to be worse than the front one.
btw you need washer fluid.
If it were mine, I'd:
· Clean the valve cover/heads off where the oil stains are & see how bad it's leaking
· Flush the powersteering & cooling systems soon
· Take the upper intake air chamber off to clean it, the IAC valve, throttlebody, and EGR valve. Also to give you easy acess to change all the spark plugs.
· Change the differential oil. It's more than likely the stock oil from 1993
· Change the transmission oil. It's also more than likely the stock oil from 1993.
· Change PCV valve
· See what's the deal with the intake pipe. Silicon doesn't generally work over time. If you can't buy a new pipe (Normally $40-50 for a stock - aftermarket pipe, or around $15-20 for plumbing supplys @ lowes / homedepot) use Automotive GOOP. It will seal the splits up indefinately.
· Flush the brake fluid
· Flush the crankcase & change the oil
· Seafoam the intake to clean the combustion chambers out
· Air filter - be a generic panel filter, or get on ebay & buy a MAF adapter that comes with a cheap generic cone filter.
· Rebuild the dogbone engine mount with 3M Polyurathane, or buy a new aftermarket one (Ebay they're like $30 shipped if you can't get them locally)
That's stock.
Looks like it's been serviced. UIAC has been cleaned off. The main air hose between the AFM & Throttlebody has split & been siliconed so it won't leak. Aftermarket plug wires, aftermarket coolant fill pressure cap. Radiator may be, but I honestly can't tell.
Front valve cover gasket seems to be leaking, or slowly weaping oil out as there's stains all around it. Rear one's bound to be worse than the front one.
btw you need washer fluid.
If it were mine, I'd:
· Clean the valve cover/heads off where the oil stains are & see how bad it's leaking
· Flush the powersteering & cooling systems soon
· Take the upper intake air chamber off to clean it, the IAC valve, throttlebody, and EGR valve. Also to give you easy acess to change all the spark plugs.
· Change the differential oil. It's more than likely the stock oil from 1993
· Change the transmission oil. It's also more than likely the stock oil from 1993.
· Change PCV valve
· See what's the deal with the intake pipe. Silicon doesn't generally work over time. If you can't buy a new pipe (Normally $40-50 for a stock - aftermarket pipe, or around $15-20 for plumbing supplys @ lowes / homedepot) use Automotive GOOP. It will seal the splits up indefinately.
· Flush the brake fluid
· Flush the crankcase & change the oil
· Seafoam the intake to clean the combustion chambers out
· Air filter - be a generic panel filter, or get on ebay & buy a MAF adapter that comes with a cheap generic cone filter.
· Rebuild the dogbone engine mount with 3M Polyurathane, or buy a new aftermarket one (Ebay they're like $30 shipped if you can't get them locally)
Last edited by Pheonix; 12-20-05 at 10:21 AM.
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#9
Originally Posted by GATO
nice find maniax
now who's car is this?
this is a smokin pic
now who's car is this?
this is a smokin pic
GREAT find on that car.. and as for the pic.. it's MINE.. all the hatters in my hood was trying to key it.. so i let McElli... watch it for me...
Phenix.. dam bro.. from one picture you can see all that.. sharp eyes..
#11
Originally Posted by Pheonix
The gauge cluster isn't stock. Looks like OLT had his hands on it.
That's stock.
Looks like it's been serviced. UIAC has been cleaned off. The main air hose between the AFM & Throttlebody has split & been siliconed so it won't leak. Aftermarket plug wires, aftermarket coolant fill pressure cap. Radiator may be, but I honestly can't tell.
Front valve cover gasket seems to be leaking, or slowly weaping oil out as there's stains all around it. Rear one's bound to be worse than the front one.
btw you need washer fluid.
If it were mine, I'd:
· Clean the valve cover/heads off where the oil stains are & see how bad it's leaking
· Flush the powersteering & cooling systems soon
· Take the upper intake air chamber off to clean it, the IAC valve, throttlebody, and EGR valve. Also to give you easy acess to change all the spark plugs.
· Change the differential oil. It's more than likely the stock oil from 1993
· Change the transmission oil. It's also more than likely the stock oil from 1993.
· Change PCV valve
· See what's the deal with the intake pipe. Silicon doesn't generally work over time. If you can't buy a new pipe (Normally $40-50 for a stock - aftermarket pipe, or around $15-20 for plumbing supplys @ lowes / homedepot) use Automotive GOOP. It will seal the splits up indefinately.
· Flush the brake fluid
· Flush the crankcase & change the oil
· Seafoam the intake to clean the combustion chambers out
· Air filter - be a generic panel filter, or get on ebay & buy a MAF adapter that comes with a cheap generic cone filter.
· Rebuild the dogbone engine mount with 3M Polyurathane, or buy a new aftermarket one (Ebay they're like $30 shipped if you can't get them locally)
That's stock.
Looks like it's been serviced. UIAC has been cleaned off. The main air hose between the AFM & Throttlebody has split & been siliconed so it won't leak. Aftermarket plug wires, aftermarket coolant fill pressure cap. Radiator may be, but I honestly can't tell.
Front valve cover gasket seems to be leaking, or slowly weaping oil out as there's stains all around it. Rear one's bound to be worse than the front one.
btw you need washer fluid.
If it were mine, I'd:
· Clean the valve cover/heads off where the oil stains are & see how bad it's leaking
· Flush the powersteering & cooling systems soon
· Take the upper intake air chamber off to clean it, the IAC valve, throttlebody, and EGR valve. Also to give you easy acess to change all the spark plugs.
· Change the differential oil. It's more than likely the stock oil from 1993
· Change the transmission oil. It's also more than likely the stock oil from 1993.
· Change PCV valve
· See what's the deal with the intake pipe. Silicon doesn't generally work over time. If you can't buy a new pipe (Normally $40-50 for a stock - aftermarket pipe, or around $15-20 for plumbing supplys @ lowes / homedepot) use Automotive GOOP. It will seal the splits up indefinately.
· Flush the brake fluid
· Flush the crankcase & change the oil
· Seafoam the intake to clean the combustion chambers out
· Air filter - be a generic panel filter, or get on ebay & buy a MAF adapter that comes with a cheap generic cone filter.
· Rebuild the dogbone engine mount with 3M Polyurathane, or buy a new aftermarket one (Ebay they're like $30 shipped if you can't get them locally)
It's a 1993 ES 300 black exterior/ tan interior. 5 speed.
Pro's:
-Clutch was replaced 2-3 months ago. $750 job.....i have the receipt
-Tires were replaced in the summer and still have good tread. Goodyear assurance tires. very nice.
-No dents.
-Interior is decent. No cracks or excessive scratches on dash. The leather seats are showing its age....slightly cracked and very dry.
-Upgraded speakers with an amp in the trunk. Sounds very nice
-The whole trunk is fitted with dynamat.
-Windows have been tinted.
-Everything is in working condition except for antenna.
-It comes with a compustar pager alarm and remote start.
-Engine bay seems clean.
-only 69,000 miles.
-I'm third owner. First owner was in florida. Second owner was the guy i bought the car from. He bought the car from a florida dealer and drove it up to ny.
-NO rust.
-Cross drilled/slotted rotors on all four corners. I wouldn't do it if it was my choice but the car stops really good with no squeals or anything . just clean stopping power. im happy.
Con's:
-93 does not have passenger airbag.
-There's scratches on both sides of the front bumper.
-The paint on top seems to be in decent condition but i think the clear coat is coming off because the paint feels rough even after car wash.
-The paint on the bottom(gray) seems to have black dots all over it. No biggie. When i have the money i'll get it painted all black.
-The interior is not in the best condition. I'd give it a 7/10.
-The coolant temperature display is flickering when i start the car.
-The passenger side rear window tint has scratches.
-The seat heaters take forever to warm up.
-The trunk lid does not stay up by itself. You have to hold it up. The guy claims that the trunk has been dynamat.....so it's too heavy for it to stay up by itself. Definitely annoying to have to hold the trunk up with your hands.
Driving impressions/reviews/other problems:
I've driven other 5 speed before and this car does not feel the same. It does not feel sporty at all. It's the very smooth lexus/toyota feel that we're all so used to except it has a clutch. It does not have that feeling where it wants to be revved......it likes to hang out in the cruising RPM's.
One of the problems i have with this car is the clutch pedal. When you press the clutch pedal, it feels pressurized till half way down.....then it sinks/sucks into the bottom with very little pressure. When I let go of the clutch......it takes half a second for it to pop back up to the middle then it comes up slowly. As you can tell, it was hard for me to get used to it.....because the catch point is a lil before the midpoint of the clutch pedal. The guy told me that the mechanic told him it's normal for these kind of cars to feel like that. The mechanic told him he should just engage the clutch half way when shifting. I think its total bull****. None of the manual tranny cars i've driven is like that. I've somewhat gotten used to it but i still think it's a big problem because 1)it wears out the clutch. 2)It takes too much time to launch the car with that delay in the clutch pedal.
I suspect it's either the slave cylinder, master cylinder, or the hydraulic hose thats causing the problem. Mayb theres air in the system. I dunnno.
The guy told me that he did a major tune-up @ 60,000 miles. New plugs, plug wires, cap/rotor, and other things. He also said he changed the Manual transmission fluid to synthetic at 60k.
He said he changed the radiator when he got the car becuase it was leaking coolant. He also said he changed the rear valve cover gasket because there was a leak. He didnt touch the front.
He doesnt have the receipts to any of these things but i tend to believe him because he seems to be an honest guy.
I think the car is kind of strange because it idles at 500rpm. Kinda low esp. when its kinda cold outside. It seems to be really quiet but starts everytime. Dont know if that's a problem.
The car also warm up really fast. I suspect its due to the coolant level. The coolant level is below minimum. The coolant fluid looks kinda redish brown. I'm afraid to mix it as i dunno whats in it. So do you think i should flush the whole system and put new coolant? What color coolant would I need?
The powersteering fluid was low so I added more dexron III automatic tranny fluid to it. Now it turns really smooth.
Overall, the car drives really nice esp. for a 93. It has no squeaks and rattles. It idles quiet and still. Its very stable on the highway. I love how lexus/toyota rides.
The dogbone mount seems to be in good condition unlike my 96 camry which shakes like crazy when it idles due to the mount.
Phoenix, you sure do have some crazy interpretations and crazy eyesight. I can't belive u actually noticed the sillicon from the picture. I didnt even notice it looking at the engine bay. It seems that i can learn alot from you. I have a question tho, how do you change the differential fluid? I always thought it was same as tranny fluid.
Sorry for the long post but I just got so much to say about my car.
Thanks for the comments everybody.
#13
-Cross drilled/slotted rotors on all four corners. I wouldn't do it if it was my choice but the car stops really good with no squeals or anything . just clean stopping power. im happy.
-The paint on top seems to be in decent condition but i think the clear coat is coming off because the paint feels rough even after car wash.
Start with a wash in dishwashing detergent (like dawn) - or a pre-wax cleaner so any wax & oils are stripped from the paint.
Hit it with a clay bar.
Re-wash it like normal
Polish it. Don't use a pissy hand polish. Grab a manly orbital buffer & hit it with some Meguiar's DACP on a yellow (Medium) cutting pad. It'll take awhile if it's bad - but it will eventually level the paint & you don't have to have any skill to do it - unlike a real rotary buffer
Otherwise - just leave it, or paint it whenever you get around to it.
-The interior is not in the best condition. I'd give it a 7/10.
-The coolant temperature display is flickering when i start the car.
-The trunk lid does not stay up by itself. You have to hold it up. The guy claims that the trunk has been dynamat.....so it's too heavy for it to stay up by itself. Definitely annoying to have to hold the trunk up with your hands.
or replace them, or come up with some other way to create more tension.
It does not feel sporty at all. It's the very smooth lexus/toyota feel that we're all so used to except it has a clutch. It does not have that feeling where it wants to be revved......it likes to hang out in the cruising RPM's.
One of the problems i have with this car is the clutch pedal. When you press the clutch pedal, it feels pressurized till half way down.....then it sinks/sucks into the bottom with very little pressure. When I let go of the clutch......it takes half a second for it to pop back up to the middle then it comes up slowly. As you can tell, it was hard for me to get used to it.....because the catch point is a lil before the midpoint of the clutch pedal. The guy told me that the mechanic told him it's normal for these kind of cars to feel like that. The mechanic told him he should just engage the clutch half way when shifting. I think its total bull****. None of the manual tranny cars i've driven is like that. I've somewhat gotten used to it but i still think it's a big problem because 1)it wears out the clutch. 2)It takes too much time to launch the car with that delay in the clutch pedal.
I suspect it's either the slave cylinder, master cylinder, or the hydraulic hose thats causing the problem. Mayb theres air in the system. I dunnno.
I suspect it's either the slave cylinder, master cylinder, or the hydraulic hose thats causing the problem. Mayb theres air in the system. I dunnno.
The guy told me that he did a major tune-up...He doesnt have the receipts to any of these things but i tend to believe him because he seems to be an honest guy.
I think the car is kind of strange because it idles at 500rpm. Kinda low esp. when its kinda cold outside. It seems to be really quiet but starts everytime. Dont know if that's a problem.
The car also warm up really fast. I suspect its due to the coolant level. The coolant level is below minimum. The coolant fluid looks kinda redish brown. I'm afraid to mix it as i dunno whats in it. So do you think i should flush the whole system and put new coolant? What color coolant would I need?
Flush the coolant & use your normal $1 a gallon green coolant from where ever. DO NOT EVER use Toyota red in it. (Or the newer pink)
The powersteering fluid was low so I added more dexron III automatic tranny fluid to it. Now it turns really smooth.
Overall, the car drives really nice esp. for a 93. It has no squeaks and rattles. It idles quiet and still. Its very stable on the highway. I love how lexus/toyota rides.
The dogbone mount seems to be in good condition unlike my 96 camry which shakes like crazy when it idles due to the mount.
Phoenix, you sure do have some crazy interpretations and crazy eyesight. I can't belive u actually noticed the sillicon from the picture. I didnt even notice it looking at the engine bay. It seems that i can learn alot from you. I have a question tho, how do you change the differential fluid? I always thought it was same as tranny fluid.
The differential has one bolt that drains the fluid & another above it that you fill with. It's a pain to change. Until the later A541-E transmissions, the differential/transmission supplys were seperate.
Sorry for the long post but I just got so much to say about my car.
#15
hey phoenix......YOU'RE THE FKIN MAN!!!!
my mom has a 2000 nissan maxima auto.....it used to be mine.....well that engine feels totally different from toyota engines......it's not as smooth as toyota/lexus but it has brutal power delivery and it always wants to be revved!!!! like once you rev it up to about 3000rpm it doesnt wanna stay tehre......it wants to keep going up. sorry i don't how to explain it.
Do you have a link for the lexhol gallon jugs? I looked everywhere but only found the one liter bottles.
Do you think it's bad for the engine to be using the red coolant it has in it now? Cuz i was thinking about flushing and refilling after the winter time.
Well thanks for your input phoenix i appreciate it.
Here's a list of mods i planned out. altho i have no money right now its still a plan.
Clear the headlights and taillights.
paint the headlights housing black with a clear coat
Rewire my foglights so they come on with the sidemarker
paint the whole car over and make it a solid black or some kind of blue.
s2000 antenna conversion (my power antenna is broken)
Drop it when the struts go bad.
Take the 9006 6000k HIDS from my camry and put it in the lexus.
Put 17" IS300 rims on it
Install a spoilerdepot.com spoiler or a m3 style trunklid spoiler.
Install a Carputer in it so i can watch movies, divx, play mp3s, Navi, tv, and everything else.
install a front strut tower bar.
Mayb an intake?
my mom has a 2000 nissan maxima auto.....it used to be mine.....well that engine feels totally different from toyota engines......it's not as smooth as toyota/lexus but it has brutal power delivery and it always wants to be revved!!!! like once you rev it up to about 3000rpm it doesnt wanna stay tehre......it wants to keep going up. sorry i don't how to explain it.
Do you have a link for the lexhol gallon jugs? I looked everywhere but only found the one liter bottles.
Do you think it's bad for the engine to be using the red coolant it has in it now? Cuz i was thinking about flushing and refilling after the winter time.
Well thanks for your input phoenix i appreciate it.
Here's a list of mods i planned out. altho i have no money right now its still a plan.
Clear the headlights and taillights.
paint the headlights housing black with a clear coat
Rewire my foglights so they come on with the sidemarker
paint the whole car over and make it a solid black or some kind of blue.
s2000 antenna conversion (my power antenna is broken)
Drop it when the struts go bad.
Take the 9006 6000k HIDS from my camry and put it in the lexus.
Put 17" IS300 rims on it
Install a spoilerdepot.com spoiler or a m3 style trunklid spoiler.
Install a Carputer in it so i can watch movies, divx, play mp3s, Navi, tv, and everything else.
install a front strut tower bar.
Mayb an intake?