Havok13154

i have a es300 2002. i'm putting in a killer sound system, i went to 2 shops and they both told me that you don't need dynomat extreme in a lexus, they come with great sound blockers. i will admit that i hear a lot less of everything now that i drive a lexus.

if i where to do my trunk would 24 sq ft be enoguht? i can get 6 4sq ft rolls for free. i have to buy a roller and other stuff, i got a heat gun already.

do i really need it? i have the equel to one w7 12" with a 500 amp. i have 2 10" planet audio big bang with a 1000x1 1ohm.

i have never done dynomat extreme before and if i really don't need it i'm going to skip it.

3rdelement

iTrader: (1)

well i run 2 15's and 1000w amp. the next vehicle i put this audio system in(probably an sc) im dynomating the car before i even bother with the install of my gear. but its your call. our cars are better than most a few years back. but there are very few cars that wouldnt benefit from a little sound deadening.

3000

Try the sound system without dynomat first. I know it's a pain in the @ss to take out everything again if dynomat is needed.

Lexbox

This should do the trick.

http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pa...d_proofing.htm

vin 78

I used 2 bulk kits and 3 door kits of Dynamat Xtreme in my car (~100sq. ft.)...it makes a pretty big difference, especially when the car is lowered and/or has a aftermarket stereo system.

However, If you are looking for ride comfort (stock car w/ stock stereo) look into Cascade Audio. It tends to block outside noise a little better then Dynamat.

Pheonix

I run 2x 2004 Kicker 10" L7's on a JBL 1200.1.
Dynomat the trunk lid, & use some double sided tape on your liscence plate so it doesn't rattle.
Also, seal off any speakers you have in your deck B/C if you're pumping the subs, you *will* destroy any speaker<s> in the deck fairly quickly form the pressure rise.

You honestly don't *need* to dynomat the trunk lid, (or anything else), but you will benifit from it if you want less road noise.
What happens, is that the trunk lid rattles, but not because it's insulated. It rattles because the spring rods that hold it down don't do so with enough pressure.
So the *real* resolution to trunk rattle is to shim your springs farther apart, so they apply more pressure.


Also... Dynomat & such sucks. It's extremely expencive & heavy. Go get some roof backing for 1/10th the cost at a home improvement store!
For the cost of a single sheet of dynomat (Or any equivilant competitor) you could insulate every panel in your car.


Just remember it's gonna add 10-20-50-100lbs of weight when you do so.

Havok13154

well the dynomat is free so i'm not paying for it. will 24 sq ft do the trunk only?

looks like i'm going to dynomat it.

i don't have any speakers other then the sub on the rear deck witch i'm taking out to let the bass into the car. my subs weights 120lbs wiht the amps and box . plus i'm a big guy and i go to ride comfort then speed.

i'll take pics before and after the install.

thanks for the input, i see the light

mbud

Ya man i'd dynamat it for sure... it's better safe then sorry, because in the long run you might regret it after if you're not satisfied with the quality because the proper insulation isn't applied. It just saves you from potentially taking everything out and doing it all over again. If you're getting it for free, why not put it in!

Just my 2 cents... , But yeah good luck on the system and be sure to post those pics! I'm thinking of putting a system in my ES too, so you might give me some inspiration. lol

Cdratz

I have a 12W7 in my trunk, only rattle is from the trunk latch and the lic Plate. You might want to think about all that weight that you are putting in. If you want padding try REFLECTRIX it is the insulation (bubble wrap with foil on both sides) Cheap, light, easy to install. Worked charms in my crappy Civic (Which rattled less than any other car I have ever heard with that much bass).

Dyno Extreme is like 2-3 lbs a foot^2 right?

Havok13154

i never dynoed the trunk, i should have. not only does it rattle you can see the trunk lid getting almost 1/2" lift from the bass with the middle whole open in the back seat. when i change the look of the system in the trunk I'm going to double layer the trunk.

i have 2 layer on the back of my plate and you can still hear the rattle. you can feel the bass off every part of the inside of the car. you put your hand 3-5 inches from anything and you feel the air movement. so i don't think it will every not rattle that is why i didn't spend all the money and time doing the trunk but it would of helped.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

if you want a sound blocker, you need something like Raammat Ensolite foam. Sound deadening material, while they can block sound, are primarily used to reduce resonances and vibration. Ensolite foam has higher sound transmission loss than regular deadening material. But usually its best if its stuffed between two layers of something.

msa13623

I'll throw in my 2 cents.

I have a Chevy 4x4 pickup with noisy tires. When I installed a good sound system I Dynamatted every metal surface surrounding the cab. 2-3 layers on all the floor area, A pillars, B pillars. 1 -2 layers inside the roof, the inside of all door panels (both the side facing into the cabin and the side facing the outdoors), on the firewall behind the dash... I put insulation in any empty pocket that was not exposed to water. Basically any metal that surrounded the cabin got at least one layer. The result is that this pickup truck is quieter at both low speeds and highway speeds than my ES300. It's not just a little quieter, it's no comparision. If you have the time/patience (you have to take the interior nearly totally apart), it's well worth it. IMO, I'd spend a few hundred more to deaden the sound more effectively, and then spend a little less for a smaller amp.

You don't need to buy an expensive name brand. Any of the stuff works similarly. Note the thickness of it. Thicker is more expensive. But you can double or triple layer it. Use a heat gun to soften it and really shape it to the curved areas such as the pillars, seat attachment points, etc. The harder you can get the stuff stuck down the more effective it is.

Choas

Yea you make a good point but its on a dead 2 year old thread?

msa13623

Sure, I'm new here as of last week so it's a new thread to me.

subwoofers

I got two Digital Designs 9512s and I tell ya, lots of rattles lol.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=nC0042vgQrY