Gabeshell

Ok, here's the story. If any of you have any knowledge or prior experience with this issue on the 2002 or newer, let me know please. 2002 ES300, 77K miles.

1. When the car is cold, the 3-4 shift slips when shifting. What I mean is that you can feel the car hesitate and you can see the tachometer go up.

2. This happens only on the 3-4 shift and after the car shifts through 3-4 a few times doesn't due it again until the car is cold.

3. The car has 77K on it and has had the transmission serviced at the Lexus dealer as required, so it has the proper fluid and fluid level. The fluid is pink and does not smell burnt.

Any thoughts on this and do you think that I'm looking at an extensive repair in the near furture?

lexusk8

Sounds like you need to be in the know regarding the following thread for the '02-'05 ES transmission problems:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-1st-to-4th-gen-1990-2006/87068-02-05-es-transmission-fix.html

Gabeshell

Thanks Lexus8...I was aware of the hesitation issues upon acceleration. However this issue is with the transmission slipping, not hesitating. My rpm's actually go up between shifts while the car gains no speed.

Pheonix

Flush the fluid & check the line pressure during the 3-4 shift.
Like he said, you will probably want to flash the firmware. The U151 transmission uses electronic line pressure control. The older A54X's used mechanical.

papachino

what about on cold not shifting out of 1st until 7,000 rpm's. (yes pheonix, I'm still trying to figure out my tranny problem)

chrispy

iTrader: (21)

i have the same problem. when it's warm it doesn't shift until about 3k rpms. and it's delayed too.

papachino

try flushing yours, I already flushed mine and it still acting up, I am still hoping it is just sludge lodged

chrispy

iTrader: (21)

my mechanic said flushing the tranny fluid entirely would be dangerous to the car and told me to drain and fill two quarts everytime i change my oil.

Pheonix

If the coolant is not up to temp (around 160-170*F) the transmission will not shift into overdrive, and ignition timing is retarded part about 3000-4000rpm to keep you from trying to drive in that range.


Chris, I hate your mechanic. He must be old. Bad fluid is bad fluid is bad fluid. Flushing the transmission out is vital to keep fresh fluid in it as draining the pan normally only changes 3 to 4 quarts in a > 6 quart system.
I always advise flushing it every other year (Prefferably with a synthetic fluid & an aux. cooler), or flush it - then drain the pan every, every other oil change. Depending on if you're using the old BS 3000 mile interval, or a more realistic 5000-7000m one.


papachino there are a couple of things you can check.
1) Check the voltage between diagnostic terminal Tt, and ground (E1). This is the ECU telling you what gear it wants to be in at the current time.
1v = 1st
2v = 2nd
3v = 2nd +torque convertor lock-up (NOT something the ECU isprogrammed to EVER use, you won't see 3v)
4v = 3rd
5v = 3rd + TC lock-up
6v = O/D
7v = O/D + TC Lock-up


See what rpm you're at when it changes to 2v. It may be trying to change normally, but the transmission won't do it. (Insuffecient pressure), or it could be a speed sensor problem that's not throwing a CEL. That would narrow it down I would hope.

The 1-2 change should take place between 32 & 38mph, regardless of coolant temp, or the POWER button.
I forget what all we've done.
*Bridge TE1 & E1, and make sure there are no codes stored, but not flashing on the O/D light. I know that some codes do not flash the O/D light immediately.
*The kick-down cable is adjusted correctly / tighter right? It's not loose. That'll cause funky shifting & low line pressure
*What rpm does the car stall at? Set it in drive, put the brake all the way down, and the gas. It should hit about 2400rpm, give or take 150rpm.
*How long does it take to shift from N to D when idling, and N to R when idling? (You can feel the jerk)
*What happens when you manually shift it? L to 2 to D to O/D button on?


The FSM's listed causes for no 1-2 upshift in order are:
1) The TPS sensor is out of adjustment. (Yes. They commonly go out of adjustment, just not enough to cause symptoms.)
2) No. 2 shift solenoid malfunctioning
3) No. 1 shift solenoid malfunctioning
4) ECU (Ya right)

1) The No. 1 shift valve. (Normally this would mean the spring for it is weak, or broken.)
1) The second brake (B2) in the transmission
2) No1. one-way clutch (F1)




I would love to know what the line pressure is too. To fully test it you need a big pressure gauge (300psi), and whatever the tap size is for the place where you screw the gauge in.