brake rotor research
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What are the brands those ebay store sells for like $40 + shipping a set? Toyota dealer asks for around $90 a piece. Autozone has duralast brand for $37 a piece. Andvanceautoparts has weraver band for $24 a piece. How the quality differs among all those out there?
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I'm sure that they have to at least meet OEM safety specs. I'm not sure about the quality however, it might not last as long or warp easily compared to the OEM rotors.
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Just pick up a set of Brembo blanks off eBay.....they generally go for around 180 for all 4, and with the Brembo name on it, you know they're going to be top notch as far as OEM style rotors go.
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Originally Posted by W. David
Just pick up a set of Brembo blanks off eBay.....they generally go for around 180 for all 4, and with the Brembo name on it, you know they're going to be top notch as far as OEM style rotors go.
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Drilled rotors are weak. They're very prone to warping, and cracking when not warmed up & cooled down easily.
Their braking performance is inferior to that of any other style of rotor.
There is less surface area than a blank, so there is less friction.
There is less mass than a blank, so it will run at a hotter temp, 'causing pad & fluid boiling problems earlier.
VS slotted. Slotted are not weak & do a better job at scrubbing the pad surface. So well in fact, that I doubt anyone would ever get 2 years out of a brake pad on slotted rotors. I never was able to do it. I don't know anyone that was ever able to do it reliably.
I don't like slotted most of the time. Blanks are 100% pointless on a road-going vehicle. Unless somebody get's out on an *actual* road racing track (Auto-X need not apply), you don't have pad glazing problems on a descent pad.
Their braking performance is inferior to that of any other style of rotor.
There is less surface area than a blank, so there is less friction.
There is less mass than a blank, so it will run at a hotter temp, 'causing pad & fluid boiling problems earlier.
VS slotted. Slotted are not weak & do a better job at scrubbing the pad surface. So well in fact, that I doubt anyone would ever get 2 years out of a brake pad on slotted rotors. I never was able to do it. I don't know anyone that was ever able to do it reliably.
I don't like slotted most of the time. Blanks are 100% pointless on a road-going vehicle. Unless somebody get's out on an *actual* road racing track (Auto-X need not apply), you don't have pad glazing problems on a descent pad.
Last edited by Pheonix; 04-11-06 at 07:30 PM.
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