retiredva

OK, I'll contact them. So, the idea is I buy the product from them and have my mechanic install it. He'll be happy, esp. if he needs me to send his kid to college! Thanks.
Any other ideas?

Lexucan

No, actually the idea is: you remove your instrument cluster and send it to Lextech. Then they do your needles and/or backlighting and send it back to you.

retiredva

Rats! I got excited for nothing. I don't have the ability to remove the cluster and don't know anyone who does. Also, I'd be without for an extended period. Could I still drive the car? Guess I'll just need to watch it get worse until I think of something else. Thanks anyway!

Lexucan

Well, if you maybe have a friend who knows which is the business end of a philips screwdriver and who can do a bit of soldering, then the DIY might be a solution for you. It only takes a day to do and is very inexpensive.

I believe you can drive the car without the cluster but then you'll have to reset the Airbag light once the cluster is reinstalled.

BadViper22

I highly recommend the excelent write up by Lexucan! Simply put, its inexpensive, and relatively simple/

96whitez28

Hi Lexucan/BadViper,

I am really interested in doing this mod to my ES but am a little scared about throwing the weight of the needles off and causing inaccurate readings. I was wondering if the snag you had BadViper was fixed and if so how?

Thanks!

BadViper22

First of all, All praises to Lexucan for figuring this out.

The balance issue only affects the temp needle and gas needle(when the car is off it sinks to empty then goes back to normal when I start driving). And there is no real difference in the tachometer and speedometer. I haven't fixed them truthfully because it isn't a real problem or anything to worry about.

And don't be afraid to try this, think of it like this, if your needles are already burnt out then you have nothing to loose!

Lexucan

Yes, as BadViper22 said, you might notice after doing the mod, that your gas gauge needle takes a few seconds to reach its proper position when the car is started. It should still be accurate in reading the amount of fuel in your tank, but because of the tiny bit of added weight inside the needle after the mod, the needle will drop down when the car is off, but then rise gradually to the right spot when the car is started....no biggy. The temperature gauge works the same after the mod as before. I haven't noticed any change in its movement since the mod was done. The key to accurate needles after doing the mod, is to reposition them in the right spot when they go back on the gauges. If you find that say, your speedometer needle is out a few MPH after doing the mod, then you should need only to make a slight adjustment to its position on the gauge by gently pulling it off and pushing it back on again at the right spot.
So, after you have done the mod, leave the window off when you put the cluster back into the dash. Then you can test it and make any adjustments necessary before you pop the window back into place and button it up.
Hope this helps.

....and thanks to BV for the props

harley4jcs

GLYNNKJK: What's happing with your project ??
I'm in the same boat & was thinking on a used cluster or a $175 + shipping repair until I bumped into the GREAT thread ( THANKS LEX !!!) Harley

yr0169tw

Hi, I just did some fixment on my 93 es, I replaced 2 long needles and 8 T6.5 1W super white leds. https://www.clublexus.com/gallery/sh...=76973&cat=500

rfm

I have really enjoyed following these posts for the needle fix and backlighting upgrade. My two 1992 ESes both have these issues and being somewhat mechanically inclined I plan to try the DIY fix. Upon starting my purchasing I run into a question on the SMD (LED) to use. I am only finding 3 volt units, but seems I should be using 12-14 volt ones? Thanks for straightening me out on this.

Lexucan

First of all, welcome to Club Lexus. With three ES300s in your garage, you definitely qualify for membership!

I used 2V surface mount LEDs for my DIY needle fix. I purchased them at www.digi-key.com
If you go to their website and enter L62401CT-ND into the part search box, you will see an example of one similar to the type I used. Unfortunately, the exact part I used is no longer stocked at Digi-key but the part number I gave you is a reasonable alternative.

Hope this helps

rfm

Thank you for the guidance. I have done a little more electronics research and see more how this works now. It is the "forward voltage" that matters and the resistor match-up keeps this within the proper range (I think). I will certainly use the reference you provided.
P.S. Like these cars so much we have a 2000 also...just can't seem to boost income to the "buy new" level (3 in college and one more on the way will keep me this way it seems).

Lexus4You

hey.. is there any way someone can make like a parts list for everything... the wire, the resistors, and the smd's.... the digikey site is slightly confusing... not really showing any picures im kinda outa luck.... or links to everything.... i really want to do this and am good with soldering so i think i will try it out... just need the parts to do it... and also anyone know where i can get the t6.5 1w led...in the picture above....

Lexucan

SMD 0805 HI EFF RED CLEAR LED
Digi-key p/n: L62401-ND
QNTY NEEDED: 4

THRU-HOLE 330 OHM 0.25W 5% CARBON FILM RESISTOR
Digi-key p/n: P330BACT-ND
QNTY NEEDED: 8

WIRE KYNAR INS 30AWG BLACK (100') *
Digi-key p/n: K394-ND
QNTY NEEDED: APPROX. 8"

* The wire you might be able to get at RADIOSHACK in smaller quantity than 100' - any fine gauge wire will do.