Winterizing and storing my 2002 ES 300...
#1
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: PA
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I am looking for tips on winterizing and storing my silver 2002 lexus es 300. The car is in immaculate, mint condition and has been meticulously maintained. It has 101K miles on it and runs well (except for a hint of the dreaded jerky transmissions so many 2002 es's suffer from!)
I plan on parking it either in a garage or outdoors with a cover on it. I live near Pittsburgh, PA, where the weather can get cold and sometimes nasty. I may drive it occasionally in the winter (wetaher permitting), but I may not drive it from November or December until March or April.
Does anyone have any tips on getting a car ready to sit for a long time?
Special Gas?
Special Oil or additives?
Anything needed in the Anti-Freeze?
Any tips for protecting the engine oil or tranny?
Any tipe for protecting the exterior if I cover it and store it outdoors, besides putting a breatheable cover on it?
Any tips/advice would be appreciated!
Thanks!!!
I plan on parking it either in a garage or outdoors with a cover on it. I live near Pittsburgh, PA, where the weather can get cold and sometimes nasty. I may drive it occasionally in the winter (wetaher permitting), but I may not drive it from November or December until March or April.
Does anyone have any tips on getting a car ready to sit for a long time?
Special Gas?
Special Oil or additives?
Anything needed in the Anti-Freeze?
Any tips for protecting the engine oil or tranny?
Any tipe for protecting the exterior if I cover it and store it outdoors, besides putting a breatheable cover on it?
Any tips/advice would be appreciated!
Thanks!!!
#2
Lexus Champion
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Will 115 VAC be available to the vehicle for a "battery tender plus", a very low current computerized shut off/ auto on battery charger?
Remove the front wheels, jack stand and preserve the inner and outer CV joint boots with "aerospace 303" and a small, clean one inch paint brush. Also preserve the boots on both sides of the steering rack.
Rotate the tires, if needed. Inspect the brake pad wear. Torque the lugnuts.
Fill the five tires to the maximum value printed on the side of the tire... 44 PSI for example.
Using a magic marker, place a note inside indicating the tires are over filled.
Fill the fuel tank to it's maximum.
Change the engine oil and filter.
Insure the fluids are fresh. This includes the automatic transaxle, brake fluid, power steering, coolant of the correct type. Replace any, if necessary.
Siphon dry the washer reservoir and refill with "winter mix" washer fluid. Purge the new fluid to the nozzles.
Inspect and clean with mild detergent the wiper blade inserts.
Insure you purchase a custom fit cover, rather than a universal design.
Hold the cover snug underneath, but not tight, with bungee cords.
A locking cable for the car cover is also recommended if required.
Remove the front wheels, jack stand and preserve the inner and outer CV joint boots with "aerospace 303" and a small, clean one inch paint brush. Also preserve the boots on both sides of the steering rack.
Rotate the tires, if needed. Inspect the brake pad wear. Torque the lugnuts.
Fill the five tires to the maximum value printed on the side of the tire... 44 PSI for example.
Using a magic marker, place a note inside indicating the tires are over filled.
Fill the fuel tank to it's maximum.
Change the engine oil and filter.
Insure the fluids are fresh. This includes the automatic transaxle, brake fluid, power steering, coolant of the correct type. Replace any, if necessary.
Siphon dry the washer reservoir and refill with "winter mix" washer fluid. Purge the new fluid to the nozzles.
Inspect and clean with mild detergent the wiper blade inserts.
Insure you purchase a custom fit cover, rather than a universal design.
Hold the cover snug underneath, but not tight, with bungee cords.
A locking cable for the car cover is also recommended if required.
#3
Lexus Champion
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Either drive it for 1-2 hours on the highway at least once per week, or store it for good and don't use it at all.
If you decide to store it:
1. Change the oil and filter right before you put it up. No additives.
2. Put the appropriate amount of Sta-bil (brand name) additive in the tank and then fill the gas tank.
3. A good coat of wax would help protect from the cover ( personally, I would leave the cover out of this). Sometimes they do more harm than good in a storm.
4. Put the car on jack stands to get the tires off the ground (eliminates flat spots).
5. If would be hard to do, but I would fogg the cylinders. Commonly done on stored motorcycles, basically it is lubing the top part of the cylinders via the spark plug hole.
6. Test the pH and freezing point of you antifreeze to make sure you are low enough.
That would be the best for the eliments, but then there is always the hazard of rodents getting into the duct work.
If I were you, I would opt for the first option.
steviej
If you decide to store it:
1. Change the oil and filter right before you put it up. No additives.
2. Put the appropriate amount of Sta-bil (brand name) additive in the tank and then fill the gas tank.
3. A good coat of wax would help protect from the cover ( personally, I would leave the cover out of this). Sometimes they do more harm than good in a storm.
4. Put the car on jack stands to get the tires off the ground (eliminates flat spots).
5. If would be hard to do, but I would fogg the cylinders. Commonly done on stored motorcycles, basically it is lubing the top part of the cylinders via the spark plug hole.
6. Test the pH and freezing point of you antifreeze to make sure you are low enough.
That would be the best for the eliments, but then there is always the hazard of rodents getting into the duct work.
If I were you, I would opt for the first option.
steviej
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