Most HP best dyno thread
Most HP best dyno thread
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11-19-06, 09:17 AM
#2
We don't because noone cares about performance in the least. Welcome to the Camry platform. And no you wouldn't lead when there's a $2500usd '94 v6 Camry, built tip to toe blasting 700bhp as a daily driver with well in excess of $25,000usd worth of work done to it at this point.
11-20-06, 11:53 PM
#3
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We don't because noone cares about performance in the least. Welcome to the Camry platform. And no you wouldn't lead when there's a $2500usd '94 v6 Camry, built tip to toe blasting 700bhp as a daily driver with well in excess of $25,000usd worth of work done to it at this point.
11-21-06, 05:25 PM
#6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05GwtFsQxfg
Old old video. Around 592bhp on his old set of forged 10.5:1 CR pistons. He's runing 9.5:1 CR now.
Dig out his old videos I've posted several on here.
Old old video. Around 592bhp on his old set of forged 10.5:1 CR pistons. He's runing 9.5:1 CR now.
Dig out his old videos I've posted several on here.
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11-23-06, 08:13 PM
#8
No it's not even close LoL! There is no performance on the Camry platform. Afew hacks with the unreliable, low power TRD blower is about it. There is a freaking boatload of Maxima performance around.
Go to a dyno if ya want, but I'll save you alot of trouble.
If you still have good compression, do a good tune up. On a tottally stock engine you'll dyno this:
Torque baby!
Go to a dyno if ya want, but I'll save you alot of trouble.
If you still have good compression, do a good tune up. On a tottally stock engine you'll dyno this:Torque baby!
11-23-06, 09:44 PM
#9
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PPfff...weak sauce ,
I knew I was always a nissan guy for a reason. Owe well I found a site with some guy who had pics of his home made boosted camry with the 1vzfe. They didn't even come boosted in japan and that hurts my heart
....But in the end it is paid for and I can't afford what I want as of yet on my pay grades salary. So I'll do the honda thing and start enggineering parts for it (I am a engineer anyway).That remids me I wonder if there is a home-depot ere in Guam.
,I knew I was always a nissan guy for a reason. Owe well I found a site with some guy who had pics of his home made boosted camry with the 1vzfe. They didn't even come boosted in japan and that hurts my heart
....But in the end it is paid for and I can't afford what I want as of yet on my pay grades salary. So I'll do the honda thing and start enggineering parts for it (I am a engineer anyway).That remids me I wonder if there is a home-depot ere in Guam.
11-24-06, 08:53 AM
#10
Hey... Better than the vq30de in America ever had without splurging on the JW ECU & MEVI intake. 
Really Nissan & Toyota are very close. The big differances are:
Nissan likes people to think they're sporty, so they use big heavy steering inputs with no dampening, and unequal length front axle geometry to induce assloads of torque steer. - Where Toyota doesn't.
Nissan build quality & materials are a ****ing crock, Toyota's are top notch.
Passed that, engine wise (excluding the new gr block v6's) where Nissan v6's traditionally may have 0-5 horsepower peak on some of the Toyota engines factory VS factory. Toyota engines are more overbuilt, so you can pull more power out of them if you're in a sintuation to do so. (FI)
If you had a manual dyno, it'd be 150-155whp & 170tq stock. And remember you've not got a 185/195 engine. You've got a 200/204 engine that's been de-tuned to make 185/195. Couple of free adjustments can get you another 11whp/7wtq.
Really Nissan & Toyota are very close. The big differances are:
Nissan likes people to think they're sporty, so they use big heavy steering inputs with no dampening, and unequal length front axle geometry to induce assloads of torque steer. - Where Toyota doesn't.
Nissan build quality & materials are a ****ing crock, Toyota's are top notch.
Passed that, engine wise (excluding the new gr block v6's) where Nissan v6's traditionally may have 0-5 horsepower peak on some of the Toyota engines factory VS factory. Toyota engines are more overbuilt, so you can pull more power out of them if you're in a sintuation to do so. (FI)
If you had a manual dyno, it'd be 150-155whp & 170tq stock. And remember you've not got a 185/195 engine. You've got a 200/204 engine that's been de-tuned to make 185/195. Couple of free adjustments can get you another 11whp/7wtq.
11-24-06, 03:47 PM
#11
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When it comes to Japanese cars, by far the most common variety that show up my 1/4 mile track (like tonight) will be the Nissans, all varieties, even little turbocharged Tsurus, like old Sentras, that kick my ***.
Watch his *** fly right by me from my driver's view at the track, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDYU2Ibi4vM
However, just as Pheonix mentions, the build quality and materials are a POS and the next week I ask someone, what happened to your Nissan ______ (clutch, blown manifold, sensor, leak, etc.).
blackbob, BTW, I read somewhere that Home Depot will open in Guam in early 2007 by one of the airports. Home Depot is where I go for PVC and other little things to modify my RX.
Watch his *** fly right by me from my driver's view at the track, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDYU2Ibi4vM
However, just as Pheonix mentions, the build quality and materials are a POS and the next week I ask someone, what happened to your Nissan ______ (clutch, blown manifold, sensor, leak, etc.).
blackbob, BTW, I read somewhere that Home Depot will open in Guam in early 2007 by one of the airports. Home Depot is where I go for PVC and other little things to modify my RX.
11-24-06, 04:51 PM
#12
Home depot/Lowes type stores are really only good for the super cheap aluminized / galvanized pipe to make exhaust/ intakes with. (For gods sake brush the coating off before welding. It can make you deathly ill if not kill you over time.)
And plumbing couplers. Which... Can hold vacuum, or mild boost. They can't tolerate bad engine mounts (rocking engines) they split, and you should always trade worm drive clamps for T-bar hose clamps. Except T-bar clamps hold them so tight they are again - prone to splitting.
But they're great for being in a pinch.
And plumbing couplers. Which... Can hold vacuum, or mild boost. They can't tolerate bad engine mounts (rocking engines) they split, and you should always trade worm drive clamps for T-bar hose clamps. Except T-bar clamps hold them so tight they are again - prone to splitting.
But they're great for being in a pinch.
11-24-06, 10:40 PM
#13
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I like to take the japanese approach and just build **** that works. Thanks for the info on the over built higher HP engines though that I was not aware of as far as toyota's went..kinda makes me re-think my alliance. In all honesty I'm an all around hotrod guy(meaning I'll treak or atleast attempt to tweak anything and everything on wheels). I'm just itching to see my car when it gets here to start the first round of free mods while I continue to collect parts for my turbo build I'm thinking twins to reduce piping. But building a single setup will make the tunning all the more easier. Anyone know of any common toyota specific ECU hacking programs or plug-n-play piggy backs or is this gonna turno into one of those mega-squirt adventures ?
11-25-06, 09:09 AM
#15
Forget twins. It's not even possible to fit an IHI rhc5, or a T28, or small T3 class turbo on the rear manifold. *Even* if you remove the heads to gain access. There is not enough room. And there's no real reason for twins. Adds piping, complexity, cost & doesn't gain spool time, or power VS a properly chosen single turbo. Ever.
No reprogramming of the stock ECU. Technically you could *if* you could find someone with a Tech-Tom flash programmer, but that'll never happen.
Our ECU is ungodly accepting of quality piggybacks. So it offsets it for the most part. SMT-6'ish. Especially if you leave the stock equipment intact, and simply add extra injector<s> to cover any fueling during boost. (Which is the much better way to do it anyways.) There are a ton of ECU tricks you can utilize against it. Really makes having a stand-alone nice, but un-needed until you start *really* putting down major power numbers. Say 450-550bhp.
Basically. Anything you know about the DOHC VQ30DE's in the Maxima's applies to the 3vz-fe. We just have bigger rods, less starting compression, and the construction & sensors are better.
Just never overheat this engine. Like any other built in the late 80's to mid 90's. The headgasktes lacked asbestos and were before the Multi-Layer Steel OEM gaskets. If it overheats one good time, it'll warp the head & blow the gasket.
No reprogramming of the stock ECU. Technically you could *if* you could find someone with a Tech-Tom flash programmer, but that'll never happen.
Our ECU is ungodly accepting of quality piggybacks. So it offsets it for the most part. SMT-6'ish. Especially if you leave the stock equipment intact, and simply add extra injector<s> to cover any fueling during boost. (Which is the much better way to do it anyways.) There are a ton of ECU tricks you can utilize against it. Really makes having a stand-alone nice, but un-needed until you start *really* putting down major power numbers. Say 450-550bhp.
Basically. Anything you know about the DOHC VQ30DE's in the Maxima's applies to the 3vz-fe. We just have bigger rods, less starting compression, and the construction & sensors are better.
Just never overheat this engine. Like any other built in the late 80's to mid 90's. The headgasktes lacked asbestos and were before the Multi-Layer Steel OEM gaskets. If it overheats one good time, it'll warp the head & blow the gasket.