Pheonix

Holed rotors are:

• Structurally unsound
• Have the least mass, causing the earlyest fluid boiling & brake fading
• Have the least stopping ability, from the least surface area of pad contact
• Suck ***, but cost more

Blanks stop the fastest, and have the latest onset of brake fade period.
UNTIL your brakes are so ****ing hot. They melt the surface of the pad (Which would be track pads in this case...), and the pad needs to be shaved clean.




Don't push drilled rotors when they're the worst bull**** on the planet.

Pheonix

Brake fade is caused by fluid boiling...
Once you solve the fluid boiling, the brakes still activate, but the pads will overheat & simply not grip.
You can always buy better fluid & better pads on a street car that will eliminate brake fading.



And if you can afford the hundreds of dollars to get a track day at a real racing facility... You can afford the real racing brake hardware.

AzNMpower

I wouldn't go for cross-drilled unless it came on the car that way (i.e Porsche, BMW //M, etc..). They are prone to cracks and wear. Cracked rotors are not fun. Slotted ones are better than the drilled ones. But the regular brakes work just fine unless you want to go out and track your car........which is pretty silly in a Lexus ES300.

Pheonix

Well you can race anything.
But the key there is "track a car".

I don't care what mountian road, what speed on the highway, what auto-cross you're at.
If you're not literally on a RACE TRACK. You are not even cose to taxing fresh dot 4 fluid in your brake lines, and descent grabby pads. (Hawk HPS Trust me)



And don't buy into that kevlar pad bull**** like EBC's pads. They dust just as bad as anything else, they have no more than 20% of the lifespan, do not grab as hard, and are inconsistant until quite hot.
Just more random tips. LoL!