Rollin'ES3

Whats up fellow cl'ers, just wanted to see what type of motor oil u guys use on ur ES's or any other models and why you guys use that specific manufacturer

Pheonix

M1 - because at this moment in time. When you compair a M1 oil against an equivilant oil from others. The M1 oil is leading the pack, or tied with afew other tip top oils for leading the pack.


Sometimes, if I'm planning on draining it earlier I'll pop for some cheaper Super-Tech. Which isn't at good, but it still comes from Exxon-Mobil Mexico. I think 4-5 quart jugs are like $10-12 at Wal-mart still.



I preffer M1 5w-20, or M1 5w-30 synthetic, or Synthetic EP (15000) tho. I'd run AMSoil too, but I don't feel like ordering it & it's only argueably better than M1 synthetic so... Too much trouble for me to go to.

Maxx941

iTrader: (1)

M1 Synthetic from walmart.

smokesgtp

M1 15k Extended protection, I change it every 7,500. Viscosity is still excellent compared to conventional oil. From Wal-Mart. Gotta go to the auto parts store for the K&N filter though.

steviej

iTrader: (1)

M1 Synthetic 5W-20 from Wal-Fart when it is ~ $20/5qt jug.
Because the price is decent and I have always used it and I am comfortable with it.......never had any problems.

steviej

cino135

(shamefully admits) castrol gtx for higher mileage cars. typically broke, and yes the extra dough does make a diff when a student, work full time and on a serious budget (went too overboard on the ladies xmas present, IM A SUCKER)
after i bought the car used, i had planned on going to synth, but after many VERY INFORMATIVE views supplied by the professors of the CL boards, i decided against. once again, big ups to all that keep this site filled with great inforamtion for DIYers such as myself.

Lexmex

My RX300 also uses a 1MZFE engine similar, though not exactly like the ES300.

Over the years I have tried variations of M1, (5W30, 15W50, 10W30, 5W50, 0W40 and now a 5W30 extended drain/0W40 mix along with Liqui Moly friction additives).

I have not been too enthusiastic (and have made my comments known in the RX300 forum) on using the 5W30 in the blend. Have had consumption issues I have not had with 0W40.

I found out last night that the BMW dealers here sell German Castrol 0W30, which is heavy for a 30, but I have heard very good comments about it and if this is indeed (will verify on Saturday) it, then will give it a go without any additives.

For an ES however, I would heed Pheonix's comments.

3000

I haven't found it anywhere cheaper yet.

Lexmex

Some people told me Sam's Club. We have it down here, but problem is they only sell it in M1 5W50 format for about $20 USD less for 5 pack, but not the grade I was looking for.

Pheonix

The German Castrol has always had good things said about it on the anylasis forums. It's just that every time I read about it. People use it because they just found it LoL!
It tends to be sporradic in its supply.

MCV20

i m wonder if i use the M1 15/50(in the summer) would it damage your eng ?

AzNMpower

On the subject of motor oil, is it just me or is the Toyota motor oil crap? I brought it to the Toyota dealer last week, got it back, and I hated how the engine ran so I made them redo the oil change.........this time I supplied the motor oil. Now it runs great.............

What's also makes me suspicious is that this scenario repeats itself everytime I'm forced to take it to the Toyota dealer for changes (versus the typical Lexus dealer). I take it in, it comes out worse.

Lexmex

The M1 15/50 will make you lose MPG quick. Only reason I used it way back, is that for a while that was the only kind of M1 I could get in Mexico and Castrol also had some odd high weight oils.

TunedRX300

Current M1 user but will switch to German Castrol, a true 100% synthetic oil this summer because I want additional oxidation protection for the famous high temperature cam head in our 1mz-fe engines.
Two of Mobil 1 oil, 5w-30 EP and 15w-50 EP, are found to be based on mostly highly refined mineral base oil. Exxon Mobil has quietly substituting PAO, a Group IV and more expensive base stock with Group III, which is refined from petrolum crude oil.
Synthetic is more of a marketing term now in the U.S. and carries little meaning on the actual ingredient of the engine oil. The Mobil Japan web site publishes only M1 0w-30 and 0w-40 are true synthetic oil.
Additive package is also important, along with base oil, to make a good engine oil. But one must wonder when does Mobil starts to cheapen up on additives while charging users same premium price.

mbud

I just use a regular oil mixture with an entire bottle of that Lucas stuff. Works great, and ive been told from many mechanics that it performs significantly better for my engine then synthetic....